Postcard from Bishkek

I was thinking of taking the day off today … not only is it a holiday here, (International Women’s Day), but it also happens to be my birthday.  On the other hand, I am not particularly keen on Birthdays and as this isn’t a particularly significant anniversary, and the fact that I normally prepare the postcard on Friday night and only send it out on Saturday, (having slept on it and then re-read it – hopefully catching any glaring errors that have crept in).

There are quite a lot of people who share my birthday … but I can’t think of anyone really special … no-one really comes to mind … except perhaps Kenneth Grahame, the author of Wind in the Willows, about the adventures of Mole, Ratty and Toad of Toad Hall … .

Then again, there’s always John of God.   

For the record: John of God was born on 8th March 1495 and was a Portuguese-born soldier who, after years of traveling and fighting, turned to health-care work after undergoing a conversion. Just like Cadfael, (Ellis Peters’ medieval detective monk), he’s a Man of Action who turns into a Man of the Cloth.   His followers later formed the Brothers Hospitallers of St. John of God – a worldwide Catholic religious institute dedicated to the care of the poor sick and those suffering from mental disorders – and he is now considered one of Spain’s leading religious figures.

The story of John of God, (who also just happens to be the patron saint of booksellers on the side), is quite interesting in itself, but there is also a twist which lovers of Trivia might find interesting:

“Trivial Pursuits” Question: St. John of God  shares a connection with William Shakespeare – playwright;  Ingrid Bergman – film star; Machine Gun Kelly – bank robber; Raphael – artist; Walter Diemer – the inventor of bubble gum; Captain Oates – explorer on Scott’s ill fated attempt to reach the South Pole .  Any idea what it could possibly be?

Answer: They all died on their birthdays … (although, to be fair, there is some dispute about Raphael and Shakespeare).

It seems to me that there ought to be a name for this particular phenomenon … and there probably is … but if that is so, then I can’t find it (… and I would be very happy if someone could tell me).

I think that most people would assume that this phenomena, (whatever it is called), is quite a rare occurrence …  and, indeed, it is – but … some research published a couple of years ago suggested that it is actually far more common in the real world than the theory of probability might lead us to expect … indeed, it seems that someone is actually more likely to die on their birthday than any other specific date in the year that one might care to specify … especially once they pass 60 – so I had better watch out.

Another of the other reasons why I had better “watch out” is a proposed amendment being discussed in the parliament which would result in considerable penalties being imposed for publishing false or inaccurate reports – unverified rumours – in the media.  For knowingly publishing a “false report about a committed crime” the fine – currently from 500 to 1500 som, (that’s about $10-30) –  will go up … to 100,000 som ($20,000) or a prison term (1 year) – and in some circumstances up to 200,000 som or 3 years in prison.

That’s not the only fines that are being hiked.  Amendments to the law have been approved which would increase the penalties for those causing accidents which result in injuries … and deaths.  Now a scale of penalties range from fines of fines up to 10,000 som, ($200), performing “correctional works” for up to 2 years, a prison sentence – the term depending on the seriousness of the accident … 2, 3, 5, 7 or even 10 years, and a ban on driving which can last from 1 year to life … after the sentence, (if one is imposed), has been served.

Then there was a proposal to increase the fines imposed for involving others in prostitution – one suggestion that has been mooted is a fine of 500,000 – about $10,000 – with a prison sentence as an alternative.  That’s a 5 to 10-fold increase – apparently the current fine is between 50,000 to 100,000 som.

There are also proposals to increase the penalties for violating migration rules – raising fines from 1-2 thousand soms to 5-10 thousand soms and increasing the possibility of ejecting foreigners.

The dollar equivalents quoted in the press reports weren’t the same – that’s because the rate has been fluctuating rapidly … after several days of falling – at one point trading at almost 60 soms to the the Dollar – 80 against the Euro – it’s currently stabilized for a few days at about 54.5 against the Dollar, 75.6 against the Euro and 90.3 against the pound.

At one point the Exchange Offices weren’t selling any Dollars but holding on to them – there wasn’t a dollar to be had in the city.  That seems to have one of the infringements of the rules governing their operation revealed in a series of raids and led to many of them having their licences suspended or withdrawn …

There’s been quite a bit of intervention by the National Bank to help stabilize the rate and a lot of discussion about how it is tied to the devaluation of the Russian Ruble and Kazakh Tenge and “speculative” activities … or “artificially created agiotage” (what a wonderful phrase) triggering an increased demand for foreign currency which does not reflect any “economic reasons” for the abrupt movements in the currency market.  Bank deposits in som is falling but the value of deposits in foreign currencies is growing … the interesting thing about that, it struck me, is that seems to imply that people have more faith in the banking system than they used to.

The  changing exchange rate is being cited in price rises – from 4.5% (for example, for oil), to 10 % (for sugar) and 20% (for tea).  In addition to the shocks provided by the currency markets, and the inevitability of higher prices of imports from Russian and Kazakhstan, the situation in Ukraine may also being playing a role as the supply of imports from there is drying up.

In fact, we were told, Kyrgyzstan imports most of its food.  According to one official, Kyrgyzstan is self sufficient only in milk and potatoes … then came the revelation that 35% of the population survive on a diet of bread, tea and sugar.

Then the deputies made a decision to ban the cultivation, production, import and sale of genetically modified food products.

The parliament has also passed a new law requiring that model phones be registered and the process starts with registering SIM cards - starting today we have a year to register them and conclude a contract with service providers – or else they will be disconnected from the network.  The idea isn’t just to identify the owners of phones – there being six and half million apparatus in the country, (which is more than the population), but also should help relocate lost items and prevent theft.

I suppose that I cannot escape mentioning events unfolding in the Crimea … it’s dominated the news and conversation here all week.  It’s been quite interesting comparing the reports in the Western and Russian media – although it seems to me that the local media has been a little reluctant to comment beyond relaying  the reports from Moscow.  I have only seen one Western report which did more than just pass a nodding reference to Russian concerns that underlie the decisions they have taken – and probably should be addressed and not simply dismissed.

Likewise, the “Western position” doesn’t get much coverage here and although I don’t normally comment on politics, I have surprised some people when I have mentioned some things I have seen reported in the Western Press.  The most common question I have faced is “Why is America so interested in a country so far away from their own sphere of influence?” … but I admit that when replying I have avoided references to Chamberlain and Czechoslovakia and simply mentioned that we now live in a “global village” and the “Butterfly effect”.

 

I have seen several analyses (mainly from international sources) suggesting that the Central Asian republics must be getting anxious seeing what is happening … after all we have sizable Russian communities and the local populations are very proud of their individual national heritages.

The locals seem to be divided between those who support the new regime in Kiev and others who see this as a form of anarchy and support the Russian position and attempt to “restore order” – although that’s not exactly how Moscow puts it.  Comparisons are drawn with Bosnia and Libya or Sudetenland, Chechnya and Georgia, (depending on which side the speaker is on).    There have been small demonstrations held by both sides – but the photographs suggest that the turnouts have not been great (maybe reaching double figures) and they created the impression that they were being held as media photo opportunities.

It seems to me that, just as when we experienced our revolutions, most people are too busy getting on with their daily lives, trying to earn their daily crust of bread and cup of sweetened tea and sugar.  They are not listening to arguments but being guided by emotion and traditional ties.

 

Life does go on … although several of the long running important stories such as the Kumtor saga continue to unfold.

Now that the wind up of the Manas Transit Center is well and truly under way, for example, we’ve learned that in the 12 years of its operation over five million military personnel from 26 different countries have passed through the facilities.  Although one report suggest that the Americans were packing up everything and would leave nothing behind,, there was a tour for some journalists pointing out what was going to be left, dormitories, gymnasium, vehicles and so forth.

The bombshell that dropped last week about a Russian company being interested in obtaining majorty holding in the operations of the airport has been causing a bit a stir in the parliament … with members asking for details – after all, the airport is a strategic object vital for the country.  The cry went up – “Why weren’t we consulted?”

I doubt if that has anything to do with the proposed vote of no confidence in the government that has been tabled … but in itself that has been fairly chaotic … with a fairly substantial number of MPs signing to support it … from virtually all parties across the board … but then some seem to have a change of heart and chose to withdraw.  So much for the opposition apparently trying to regroup and redefine itself … but then, party affiliations are fairly loose here and party discipline can vary … both within and across party lines.  Anyway, the motion is due to be debated next week … the debate is likely to come up next week, and although I don’t think the government will fall – who can tell.

That would make life a bit difficult with so many important issues still on the table … and, I suppose, it’s one reason why living here can be so interesting.

 

One of the advantages of having a birthday in early March is that Spring has just started, (here, March 1st is reckoned to be the first day of Spring), or is just around the corner, (in Britain that place of honour is given to 21st March).   The days are drawing out and getting warmer as the sun shines, bringing out fresh leaves and flower buds.  People start wearing lighter clothes – in terms of both weight and colour – and people tend to be more cheerful and optimistic.  This week, for example, I was able to go out with just a short sleeved pullover over my shirt instead of the usual five layers, (singlet, shirt, pullover, “hoodie” – which means I don’t have to worry about loosing a hat somewhere, and padded jacket).  Mind you, the forecast for the next couple of days is not good – the Ministry of Emergency Situations have issued a storm warning and arranged for the army to fire their big guns in certain areas to force avalanches under controlled conditions rather than simply letting nature take its own course.

One of the more picturesque elements of winter are the icicles hanging down from many of the roofs and even trees around the city.  The word icicle is, however, a little misleading – these are more like stalactites of ice some reaching they meters in length.  They may look pretty, but they can be dangerous especially as the thaw sets in and they start to fall.  The snow on our office roof, for example, thawed and fell off with blocks sliding off the sloping rooh and crashing to the ground with considerable force … and noise.  Even after they had smashed on the asphalt, there were several blocks about a foot square and six inches thick left lying on the ground – thats about 30x40x15 cms.   There have been a number of incidents where people have been injured by falling ice and articles appeared in the press with appeals not to walk close to buildings where the ice would fall.  It’s not just the high rise blocks that can be dangerous … one of those injured was a member of our staff who was hit in the face by a falling “icicle” whilst at home … she heard a noise, looked up and – smash!  She was lucky – very lucky – that it actually missed her eyes and she wasn’t more seriously injured. 

Today is also International Womens’ Day … and that has resulted in sightings of male members of society  rushing along the pavement grasping bunches of multicoloured blossoms …  adding to the sense of colour and general feeling of wellbeing.

There are a number of activities planned to commemorate the occasion, not just for today but for the month.

One event, however, did not go according to plan.  It seems that a group of “feminists” were holding an “infotainment” at the main Osh Bazaar in Bishkek (ironically about domestic abuse prevention), when a crowd of about 40 gathered.  The story is that some of the crowd mistook the internationally recognized scientific symbol for “female” as a Christian symbol – well it does have a cross on it.  Another account suggested that everything was OK – well, maybe there was some banter – but then someone said “There is no God” and that’s when things turned nasty and at least two of the activists were attacked, clothes were grabbed, cigarette smoke blown in the faces, seeds spat in their faces and were verbally abused with comments about (for example being called the local equivalent of “faggot”).  Although a police post was nearby, the officers manning it didn’t move in and the participants sought refuge in the building of the local district caught … pursued by the crowd … and had to be rescued by calling a police car from the local police station.  So much for celebrating International Womens’ Day … the general level of education – it’s an internationally recognized scientific symbol after all – and for tolerance in general.

There have been other reasons to celebrate as well … earlier in the Week there was Flag Day – commemorating the adoption of the red and yellow standard, and Kalpak Day – in honour of the traditional Kyrgyz headgear – a tall hat made from pieces of felt stitched together and often embroidered with time honoured traditional patters.  Both provided the occasion for parades and celebrations in Bishkek’s main Ala Too Square – which created some striking images with young people striding purposefully and brimming with proud in their traditional heritage.  

Less welcome, however, were the traffic jams created as vehicles were redirected along alternative routes … and travelling at not much more than walking pace.

Finally … nothing to do with Kyrgyzstan … regular readers of my weekly postcards will know of my penchant for trivia, lists and statistics … well, in yesterday’s Guardian there was an article about teen movies.  Last year they produced a list of what a panel of critics considered to be the ten best “Teen movies” … Perhaps it is a sign that I have been away from home for a long time, but I had only heard of three of them – and only seen two of them: The Blackboard Jungle and Rumble Fish, both of which are quite old.  So they decided to repeat the exercise and this time they asked a panel of 16 year olds who came up with an alternative list of 5 titles.  I had at least seen The Amazing Spiderman … and I have heard of Pride and Prejudice, (but, personally, couldn’t understand the film’s appeal to modern 16 year olds), but the other three left me totally mystified.   The bit I found fascinating, however, was not the list themselves but the reason given for repeating the exercise – the fact that the original panel had “an average age of 104″ …  that’s “an average age”!  Just who on earth did they have their original panel??? 

John of God?

 

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Postcard from Bishkek: the weekly postcard that I send out as an email also gets posted on the website ianbek.kg each week – and there are other postcards which don’t get sent out.  This week, for example, there has been the following postcards:

• Just another hotel? - When there’s plenty of choice, it’s important not to be “just another hotel” - 02/03/14
• Konstantin Petrovich Kaufman - The Governor General of Turkestan … which included modern Kyrgyzstan: - 03/03/14
• Prospect Manas - A stroll along one of Bishkek’s main streets: - 04/03/14
• Cooksie - To mark what would have been the 104th birthday of Momofuki Ando: creator of the Cooksie – or pot noodle – a staple here in Kyrgyzstan. - 05/03/14
• Uhhh … who are you? - A visit from the authorities – 06/03/14
•  New build - There’s an awful lot of construction going on in Bishkek - 07/03/14

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