Postcard from Bishkek

I have to congratulate my readers from Australia on the fact that today is Australia Day.

The day was chosen as it commemorates the arrival of the First Fleet in Sydney Cove in 1788 and the proclamation of the establishment of the colony of New South Wales.  There were eleven ships in the fleet carrying some 1373 people: ship’s officers and crew, marines – including some of their wives and children, some officials and passengers … oh, yes … and 754 convicts  … it was, after all intended to be a penal colony.

It had been a long journey – 252 days.  They had set sail from England in May, sailed South and then across the Atlantic to Rio de Janeiro, (in order to take advantage of the Trade Winds), before crossing it again to South Africa and embarking on crossing of the Indian Ocean.

Although we know how many people landed in Australia, we don’t actually know how many people were on board the fleet when it left England – there are incomplete manifests for some of the ships – but at least 48 people died on the voyage … but there were also 20 children born en route.

They were supposed to have disembarked at Botany Bay, (discovered by Captain Cook in 1770), but when they arrived they realized that it wasn’t a good spot so ships were sent to scout for a better landing site … discovering the natural harbour which is now Sydney Harbour … world famous for its bridge linking the city center with the Northern Suburbs, the striking architecture of its Opera House … and it’s firework displays – especially at New Year.

Well, Australia, “Happy Holidays!”

 

At least, in Australia it is now summer … which should mean fine weather for the celebrations.

The weather, here, has been better – it’s almost Spring like, although there is more snow is promised next week … I feel quite sorry for those back home in the UK … which has been coping with heavy snow, it’s worth remembering that things have been worse. The coldest winter in British history is widely regarded as that of 1684, when average temperatures stayed below zero for two months. (Apparently, there have been lower temperatures recorded for short spells but 1684′s average of -3C for the month of January resulted in the River Thames remaining frozen for more than two months.

The bad weather over the new year period has been taking its toll … with a growing number of people going down with respiratory diseases, (the report actually said SARS!), and influenza, (including, apparently, H1N1 – “swine flu”).   It’s expected that the incidence of both will peak sometime in late January or early February …

At least people are able to keep warm at the moment.  The electricity supply is still a bit erratic with the intermittent power cuts still being blamed on “maintenance work” … but that may soon change as it was announced that various parts of the country are still being profligate with their use of energy and we have exceeded the planned daily “norm” by a long way.  Apart from a few comments reported a week or so ago, there’s been no threat that they will have to start reimposing restrictions, but I think that it is on the cards.  In terms of Gas, supplies are currently OK … there was a moment when it looked as if Uzbekistan might suspend deliveries in retaliation for the events in Sokh, but that hasn’t happened … yet.   What has happened is that they have threatened to cut supplies if Kyrgyzstan doesn’t pay its outstanding bill … and the Gas companies are blaming state run enterprises for that state of affairs … implying that, “if only THEY would pay their bills, then WE could pay ours.”

 

Kumtor, (a Canadian company, not an Australian one – although there are quite a few Australian mining companies here), has been in the news a lot this week.  That’s mainly because the report of the commission looking into the company’s affairs has finally reported.  We knew that ecological issues would be an important factor, and early in the week Kumtor released their own strategy plan for addressing these environment issues.  If it was meant as a preemptive stroke, it either came too late, provided too little, … or both.  They are facing fines and penalties amounting to USD162 million for failing to carrying out some ecological measures and, (what looks to me like), a call to cancel the existing agreement, (reached in 2009 under the former Bakiev regime), and establishing a new one with a reorganized company.  The security services are going to start an investigation into the signatories of the eight earlier agreements.

According to the Minister of Finance, nobody has “made the decision to terminate the Kumtor project agreement. We just listened to the results of work of the commission for Kumtor project, …  The commission voiced the problems which require solutions. The government ordered creation of a special group, which will work on resolution of these problems. There are very many problems there, environmental, technical and economic problems, problems with payments to the budget. However, no decision was made yet. A special commission was created, which will hold consultations with involved organizations, Kumtor Operating Company. All these issues will be brought up for public discussion.”

So, its not over yet … the uncertainty continues.

In the meantime, something like fifty three million dollars have been wiped off the value of Kyrgyzstan’s shares in the company.

And it’s not only Kumtor that facing this sort of criticism.  Later in the week there were claims being made against another mining company.  All this at a time when year another said that their particular project could result in a total investment of a billion dollars.  I presume that means if they are are not discouraged by what they happening elsewhere.

 

The events in the enclaves are rumbling on.  The border with Uzbekistan has closed, including the rail link which has nothing to do with the enclaves – trapping something like 600 wagons waiting for clearance and the border to reopen.  Kyrgyzstan’s one enclave located in Uzbekistan, (Barak),  where there are some three hundred families, is cut off and they all are reporting  shortages of fuel, flour and medicine, (as are some of the neighbouring villages isolated because they are “behind” the enclave itself).  The authorities have said that they will allow humanitarian convoys through, but there had been no official request for this sort of assistance so far, although some sort of agreement now seems to have been reached.    There was one difficult moment when a Kyrgyz helicopter tried to reach one village and there were reports, (hotly denied by the authorities), that it had crossed the border into Uzbek air space.  It seems that in Uzbekistan, the authorities in Tashkent are facing a difficult political dilemma about how to approach the problem that has erupted … no-one, so we are old, wants an armed confrontation erupting in the Ferghana valley … but …

To make matters more interesting, Kyrgyzstan is a a member of the Collective Security Treaty Organization which Uzbekistan has just left … so if Uzbekistan decides to launch any form of aggressive action, presumably Russian Kazakh, Belorussian and other allies would be duty bound to come to Kyrgyzstan’s aid … not something that I think that anyone considered as a possibility when the organization was established.

 

Last week’s visit by the US Deputy Secretary of State, Robert Blake, provided a fair amount of coverage – particularly about the possible fate of the Manas Transit Center. It seems that the Americans want to retain the option, especially as it is not yet clear what role they envisage playing in Afghanistan after 2014, and they obviously want to keep all their options open … and they have made great play of the amount that the base has brought to the country since it was established in late 2001. In theory, however, the Kyrgyz side are still adamant that there should be no Military presence there, but that didn’t stop one parliamentarian from speculating that the base would remain – albeit under a different name or guise … but basically fulfilling the same role as a transport hub.

It’ll be interesting to see what view the Russian would take of such a compromise if one was reached … bearing in mind what happened last time.

The Russians, however, aren’t having things all their own way elsewhere.  The Customs Union with Kazakhstan and Belarus has come under some interesting criticism – with one commentator referring to a “trade war” developing.  It seems that certain things are going well, but special licensing requirements prevent Kazakh vehicles transporting alcohol across the border.  Apparently, so it is claimed, the Kazakh drivers cannot get any of the necessary paperwork and have to unload all their cargo at the borer and transfer it to a Russian vehicle.

When I read that, I couldn’t help but think of the problems that Kyrgyz coach operators face when trying to drive in Kazakhstan.  Although there is a procedure to allow them to do so, it is almost impossible for them to get the right paperwork and even if they do have it, they still face difficulties, get stopped and delayed whilst the authorities check it all.  The result is that usually a Kyrgyz vehicle now stops at the border and discharges its passengers which then have to walk across the border before boarding a Kazakh bus.

That seems to be a special case requiring special documentation, but it is said that Russian regulations also seem to make it difficult for any processed goods to enter the country … raw materials, no problem … the problems begin when it comes to manufactured or processed goods.

Often, especially in the realm of food processing, the problems seem to revolve around questions of “quality” and “sanitary norms”.

When I read that I recalled that Kazkhstan and Iran, (our two biggest customers when it comes to exporting meat), have both created havoc for Kyrgyzstan’s farmers by imposing bans on Kyrgyz meat and Dairy produce … for grounds of quality and “sanitary norms”.

As an aside: a news report during the week took me by surprise.  The Kyrgyz tend to eat a lot of meat – at least they would if they could afford it.  According to one source, during the Soviet period, Kyrgyzstan provided enough mutton to satisfy the demand from the whole of the USSR … It seems, however, that nowadays Kyrgyzstan actually imports about 40% of its meat …  from about 10 different countries: Chicken from the US; beef from Brazil … and India (!); Pork (! – yes, not everyone is Muslim) from China; Horse Meat (a delicacy here … honest … not just an additive in Beefburgers), from Mongolia (now, that surprised me … but then I read the next one … which surprised me even more), and even mutton from Mongolia (!)

What’s more, the Kazakhs are also having trouble importing raw materials for processing which they can’t provide for themselves … whereas before they could import these without taxes and duties but are now subject to Russian duties and taxes.

All this does does not necessarily bode well for the discussions about Kyrgyzstan’s application to join the Union.

 

There was an interesting piece about the involvement of the other supernational power in the region’s modern version of the Great Game: China. It suggested that virtually no large infrastructure project could be implemented today without Chinese influence and involvement. Something, I am sure Australians will recognize.

The plans for new rail links with China  include a suggestion to revive the plan for the Balykchy-Kara Keche branch line.  Kara Keche is Kyrgystan’s biggest coal mine, (open cast), and it is hoped that the new line will open the possibility to export coal to China.

So the news that some 30 or so lorries have been “arrested” for breaking Kyrgyzstan’s regulations about weight limits, etc., looks even more intriguing.

 

We know that there are a large number of Kyrgyz living and working abroad … economic migrants or migrant workers.  They are important to the Kyrgyz economy because they send considerable sums of money back to their families who remain here.

That has led to some adverse criticism – with the children left behind being called “social orphans” … they are not actually orphans because their parents are alive … but they are not at home.  These children often live with grandparents – or with aunts and uncles.

There is also concern about the living conditions of these workers when they are abroad.  There are often stories, for example,  about workers being kept almost as “slaves”, with their passports confiscated by their employers … especially agricultural workers, but also some that work in construction, in rural regions.  Those that aren’t living in such conditions, but perhaps living in large cities, face antagonism and “racism” … again, there are many stories about people being beaten up, for example, on the Moscow Metro.

Russia, in particular, seems to be uncertain if they want these “migrant workers” … who often undertake menial low-paid jobs that “locals” don’t want. Sometimes it looks as if they are welcomed with open arms … but at others that restrictions are being imposed … at one time it was suggested that they had to take a test of knowledge in Russian language and culture, (apparently, the Orthodox Church is arranging classes to help them in this respect). The latest being the requirement that migrant workers must now have compulsory medical insurance.

Of course, the basic restriction is the need to have a work permit … and now one of the Ministries has suggested that the quota of foreign workers allowed here in Kyrgyzstan should be reduced. Thank goodness I have a Residence Permit and don’t need a work permit …

 

There has been some good news for foreigners, however, in that one of the deputies has proposed that the provisions of the Land Code be changed to allow foreigners the right to own land. At the moment foreigners cannot own land … they can own the buildings on the land – but not the land itself … so whereas we own our two hotels we have to lease the land on which they stand from the local authority.

So, you can imagine, this sounds pretty enlightened … but … there are some limitations. As I understand it, this won’t be backdated and wouldn’t apply to everyone – the suggestion is that it would allow foreign construction companies building apartment blocks and the like the right to buy and own the land.

 

Law and Order is never far from the headlines … and on Friday the body of another murdered policeman was found … stabbed, and his car stolen.  It doesn’t look as if this time the murder’s left any vital clues.

The legendary Australian folk hero also killed police officers and I remember the shock that ran through Britain back in the sixties when three policemen were shot shot on a city high street.  Here there is shock, but the police are not held in high regard.  Even the Prime Minister has lashed out at the corruption where the police act as “krisha“, (a roof), protecting prostitutes and criminals … and so the public don’t trust them.     

A report on life in a Youth Colony, (a sort of Juvenile Detention Center), describing life in the institution proved to be very interesting. The Finnish singer Nina Ashton has been here and performing in a couple … and I am sure that she provided an interesting diversion form the usual daily routine.

There was a report of the sweep on Bishkek’s markets that found lots of school aged children working instead of attending classes … (and another report suggested that were something like 3000 children working in the tobacco industry). In addition, this sweep trawled some 46 homeless children … Some of them are, of course, “social orphans”, but some will have run away from home, for one reason or another … but for whatever reason they were on the street. they will now presumably end up in one of the colonies.

In addition to those “social orphans”, there are orphans looking for adoption … apparently there are 241 children awaiting adoption … 90% of them ill and in need of treatment which is difficult, if not impossible for them to receive here in Kyrgyzstan. There are calls for new procedures for the accreditation of foreign agencies which will be transparent and avoid the charges of corruption that have surrounded this issue in the past.

 

We are still getting statistics summarizing the last year. During 2012 there were apparently 726 rallies – that’s two a day … and it feels as if that is an understatement. There were also over 28000 crimes and although that sounds like a lot – it is actually 5.4% down on the previous year.

There were another international surveys reported during the week … in the Economic Freedomsurvey … Kyrgyzstan was ranked in 89th place, (out of 177 ), with the judicial system and corruption taking the credit for this less than perfect score … but the sting in the tail was the judgement that the situation was “getting worse”.

Then there was the Open Budget Index, which covers just 100 countries and evaluates the quality and quantity of information given to public in eight main budget documents that are published during the year. Kyrgyzstan was ranked in 74th place – alongside Zimbabwe (!) – and gained an overall score of 20% … which, although it is quite low, (top of the results was New Zealand with a score of 93%, South Africa – 90%, Great Britain – 88%, Sweden – 84%, Norway and France – 83% each, and the USA – 79%. Russia’s scored 74%, Kazakhstan’s 48% and Tajikistan’s is 17%. ), this actually represents an improvement … in 2008 it scored just 8% and in 2009 – 15%.

 

Vying for the nomination of Irony of the Week  was the fact that the (energy saving) lights to help deter street crime, erected by a civil activist, were dismantled by the authorities during the week …  who later announced that they were intending to make the area a “youth recreational area” … somewhere for them to go and walk, sit and spend time … in the dark.

Another candidate, in my humble opinion, was the report that the proposed requirement for everybody in the country to complete an annual tax return was being postponed, for at least a year.  I remember having to fill in something like thirty pages for Her Majesty’s Inland Revenue, following a flowchart and being directed from one box to another … it was really complicated.  So I when I faced Kyrgyz declaration for the first time I was amazed … it was just one page and most of the boxes were filled with a zero.  Now, it’s about six pages long and according to one official, is too complicated – even experts get confused.  The tax authority says that they are not ready to introduce the measure and the population have not been prepared … there is even a proposal for completion of the tax form should be taught in schools and Universities.  According to the Deputy Prime Minister – it was a good idea – but too complex for Kyrgyzstan.

 

Among the more positive stories from this week’s news was the report of Kyrgyz youths dancing in New York and sharing the stage with Beyonce and Jay-Z. Now, although I have heard of Beyonce … and who hasn’t after this week’s “lip synch” scandal … I have to confess complete ignorance as to who Jay-Z is. Apparently it was all part of the entertainment programme for a Basketball game between the Knicks and the Nets (sometimes I wonder if the Americans and us Brits speak the same language), at the legendary Madison Square Garden.

Then, there was an uplifting story about international cooperation, it seems that Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan are making a joint submission to the UNESCO list of Intangible Cultural Heritage, for the recognition of “improvisation”.  (Aitysh is a traditional competition of improvisation between Akyns(epic tellers, singers and musicians) which is common to both nomadic cultures.)

 

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Postcard from Bishkek: the weekly postcard that I send out as an email also gets posted on the website ianbek.kg each week – and there are other postcards which don’t get sent out.  This week, for example, there has been the following postcards:

• Festivals - describing some festivals in Kyrgyzstan in 2013 that are well worth a visit – 20/01/13
• KSE – The Kyrgyz Stock Exchange - on the anniversary of Black Monday in 2008, I take a brief look at the Kyrgyz Stock Exchange – 21/01/13
• Crosses and Icons - a new museum and exhibition at the Russian Orthodox Cathedral – 22/01/13
• Russian Cursive script makes me want to cry - if Doctor’s handwriting is supposed to be indecipherable … you should try reading one in Russian – 23/01/13
• Mailuu Suu - A town with a chequered legacy in Southern Kyrgyzstan – 24/01/13
• Mercury and Antimony - Most people have heard of the liquid metal, Mercury, … but Antimony? – 25/01/13

It is now possible to follow me on Facebook, (where I have specific pages for Celestial Mountains and ianbek … and also links.kg and Kyrgyz Diary), and on twitter, (@Bishkekpostcard and @celestialMTC ).

 

Tags: Expat, Life_in_Kyrgyzstan, Weekly_Postcards