Postcard from Bishkek

It was a year ago that Chicken Little came to Russia … at about 7:30 in the morning, the dark sky over Chelyabinsk in the Urals brightened, but it wasn’t the dawn breaking …

An glowing object appeared in the sky, leaving a white plume in its wake … and was followed by two loud explosions, the force of which was so powerful that it blew out hundreds of windows.  At first people speculated that a plane had exploded in mid air, perhaps one of the combat planes from the nearby military airbases.

It was a couple of hours before an official announcement came … it was, in fact, a meteorite that had entered the earth’s atmosphere and burnt up in a huge fireball … a pretty big meteorite – NASA estimated that it measures some 17 meters across and weighed about 10,000 tons travelling at 18 kps – kilometers a second – not kph!

Within hours, small fragments had located and were being offered for sale on the internet.  It later emerged that the bulk of the falling rock had been found at the bottom of Lake Chebarkul and there are plans to raise it.

The event was remarkable for a number of reasons: not only was it the only recorded case of a meteorite falling on an industrial city, it’s estimated to the be the largest meteorite to fall on the earth since the Tunguska meteorite of 1908 … but perhaps more because of the spectacular videos that emerged from carcams – usually used to record details in case of an accident or run in with the notorious traffic police:

 

     http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VPFSyokDrec

 

The sky seems to have been falling in on some other people this week.

One of the big stories of the week, for example, was the surprise devaluation of the Kazakh Tenge … it caught everyone by surprise.  There were protests outside the National Bank and a concentration of military and equipment near Almaty started to cause tensions although the Kazakhs said this was all part of a programmed exercise. The National Bank assured everyone that the devaluation was part of a planned financial maneuver, carefully planned and flawlessly executed.  There would be no further adjustments.

At least no-one appeared on Kazakh television to tell the population that the Tenge in their packet had not lost its value as Harold Wilson did when his government was forced to devalue the pound back in 1967. I remember it well because it made currency conversion much more difficult … when the pound was worth $2.40 then the British and the American pennies were equal (because there were 240 pennies in the pound, (because the pound was divided into into 20 shillings, each worth 12 pence = 240 pence in all), and a dollar was worth 8s. 4d., (eight shillings and four pence).  Batman comics with a cover price of 10¢ were worth 10d.  When,however, the pound was worth just $2.20 then $1 was worth just over 9s. 1d., (nine shillings and 1 pence …and a little),and that Batman comic was now worth 11 pence … and a little.

Anyway, it caused a certain of tension here.  There was already a lot of concern over the exchange rate … both the dollar and the Euro have been rising against the Som – by something like 4% since the beginning of the year.  The National Bank spent something like 27  million dollars to protect the value of the Som, (which means they’ve spent $62 million since the beginning of the year), but they say that they have sufficient foreign currency reserves in order to meet any further run on the national currency.

There were other questions as well … the rate of the Som against the Tenge wasn’t changed … so would Kazakhs buy Som and then use them to buy dollars and how would that affect … however, that doesn’t seem to have happened … so far – one commentator warned that the real situation may not be apparent for some time, maybe half a year.  In the meantime the National Bank has assured us that there have been no serious consequences from the move.  As most of our international trade is conducted in dollars, its felt that the devaluation shouldn’t affect us at all … and at least one expert said he saw no need for any change in state policy.

Try, however, telling that to the man in the street.  To quote just one example, the cost of a tub of yoghurt in one shop was 21 Som on Tuesday, 23 Som on Wednesday, 25 Some on Thursday and 28 Som on Friday.  Of course, that may have nothing at all to do with the exchange rate and the devaluation but all they see is rising prices and I think it is safe to say that people are not happy.

There have been several calls, however, for the government to reconsider the devaluation of the Som.

 

The migrants working in Russia who send money back home to their families here in Kyrgyzstan have also been caught off guard with changes there.  In this case it is all to do with the withdrawal of Banking Licenses.  Not long ago Vladimir Putin was saying that there were too many banks in Russia and they needed to streamline the system … then some irregularities came to light, especially concerning the Money Transfer systems operated by some of the banks … hence the revocation of the licenses.

 

Someone else who must feel as if the sky has fallen in on their head, was the skier Dmitry Trelevsky, the sole competitor from Kyrgyzstan in Sochi.  He had been feted both here in Bishkek before he left for the Games, and also after he had arrived.  He was supposed to be competing in three different events, on 16th, 19th and 20th February and was busy training when disaster struck.  He was involved in an accident and sustained an injury … which doctors say may two years to recover from.  That means that he won’t be be able to compete.  The Kyrgyz delegation has submitted an application to substitute another skier in his place – although he might not be able to compete in all three events.  However, I haven’t heard yet if the application has been approved.

He’s not the only one from Kyrgyzstan to need medical treatment in Russia … President Atambaev zoomed off to Moscow after the various opening ceremonies and a selection of official meetings with the likes of Vladimir Putin and Dmitry Medved taking a few days “holiday” … in order to have an operation on his knee.  Fortunately, it seems that the operation was a success … and the patient lived.  We’re expecting him back in Bishkek soon.

It looks as if the Prime Minister is also going to be taking a holiday soon … this time it’s going to be timed to coincide with an inquiry into the events in Osh and Djalal Abad in 2010.  There have been some suggestions of improper behaviour on the part of his brother and the inquiry is going to be looking into the allegations … and there have been the usual ritual of calls for him to stand down. In what seems to be a compromise solution he announced that he would take a holiday whilst the commission of inquiry did its work and if they found him culpable of anything then he would work away, but if not then he would return to work.

In another move, someone posted a recording of what seemed to be him talking with another official, (several years ago, before he was Prime Minister), which could be interpreted as somewhat compromising.  We seem to have had quite a few of these clandestine recordings over the years and this is just the latest in a long line of them- conversations supposedly of Maxim and Janish Bakiev apparently planning a coup, the plnmting of drugs in the luggage of a politician travelling to Poland, senior politicians and clerics in intimate situations, secret recordings of meetings … and so on.

The trial of the people recorded apparently demanding three million dollars from Kumtor or else they would organize meetings that prevent the company from working, is finally over  They have been sentenced to Seven years for extortion.  The locals in Saruu, the village in Issyk Kul at the center of the protests, have not been slow to show their dissatisfaction with the decision … although its been suggested that they should now give up protests and get on with the everyday business of preparing for the Spring planting season.   In the meantime, the defence lawyers have announced that they intend to appeal the courts decision – so it’s not all over yet

I have a feeling that we are likely to see more postings of videos and so forth .. as video surveillance systems are being installed in all sorts of places …in hospitals, (as a result of the baby being taken from a maternity home recently); museums (as a result of the theft of a valuable painting from the Museum of Fine Arts) and even on the Kara Keche coal mine … to ensure that coal isn’t stolen and that the mines are working properly.

Incidentally, the Museum staff are still smarting about the criticism they face over that painting being stolen, complaining that the budget doesn’t even provide them enough money to buy light bulbs.

 

Adil Toyganbaev, (the former son in law of the former President, Askar Akaev), might also have thought for a moment that the sky was caving in on him … He was also in Moscow on a visit, when the police arrested him on the basis of an international arrest warrant on behalf of the Kyrgyz Government who sought to prosecute him for various financial irregularities and tax evasion.  It’s not the first time he has been detained … he was once arrested in Kazakhstan but they refused to extradite him because he is a Kazakh citizen and Kazakh law does not permit extradition of Kazakhs to a foreign country.  Apparently there was a similar technicality in Russia as well, so once again he was released and free to go on his way.

 

The policeman who tried to stop a vehicle in Boom Gorge, wasn’t so lucky … nor, for that matter the two men who were travelling inside it.  It turns out that they were thieves and were not anxious to talk to a member of law enforcement … and they shot him, driving away at high speed.  Now the traffic police are not exactly popular, but the incident touched a raw nerve in the public mind.  The next day, the vehicle was found secreted away in the countryside outside Toktogul and the police approach … calling on the men inside the vehicle to come out.  In reply, they started shooting so the police returned fire, killing them both.

What I found somewhat distressing was that the official police video of the aftermath, showing the vehicle  … and the two bodies inside … soon found its way onto the internet … and it wasn’t posted by some Snowden type whistleblower – it was released to news organizations who decided to post it on their websites … albeit with a warning that it contained graphic content.  I can’t imagine that happening back home – although I haven’t been for so long, I suppose the situation could have changed.  Next time I see that sort of message, however, I’ll know not to bother clicking the “play” button.

The Bakiev’s are still in the news with a case going to the courts claiming that they were involved in a conspiracy for the the extrajudicial judicial murder of a British Businessman working for Oxus Gold back in 2005 over rights to develop the ill fated Jeroy mine.

A few years ago “the sky fell in” on a host of families when the arrangements for international adoptions were suspended in the face of corruption scandals.  Despite appeals for the matter to be resolved in order to allow the process of adoptions to continue, the matter has dragged on  … and on … and on.  Now, however, the process has been restarted – on a small scale to begin with, but there is hope that parents and children that have been waiting patiently will soon be reunited.

 

That’s not the only on-going, long running saga to be in the news this week.

There’s been quite a bit in the news, for example, about the application to join the Customs Union. Once again, we’ve been told that the final decision will be taken on the basis of the best interests of the country … but according to a survey published this week, over 40% of the respondents felt that it would be in the best interests of the country to go ahead … even without any preconditions at all.  The Deputy PM has been at great pains to say that there will be no shocks – massive price rises and so forth – if we do go ahead.

Even though most of the footwork has been done, there are still six or seven vexing questions to be resolved: the problem of financing the measures in the “Road Map”; the measures necessary for the strengthening of the borders – which will not just be Kyrgyzstan’s borders but border for the Union as a whole; the issue of the two largest markets, Dordoi and Ak Suu; problems with infrastructure; and the rights of migrants.

Even so, it’s thought that we will eventually join sometime this year, perhaps as early as in March … as there’s only just over two weeks to go until March, six weeks until the end of March… so someone had better get their skates on.  Apparently there have been discussions at the highest levels (in Sochi?) and some agreements are being prepared which should be ready for signing in the appropriate timescale, but it then take some time according to Economy Ministry to finalise all the legislation which will be carefully screened by the parliament – which is far from “tame”  - and this may take a year or so … then there will need to be a period of adjustment, so the process may still be in for a “rocky ride”.

 

The Kumtor issue has also seen some developments, the government has been given 4 months to finally sort the whole business out now that Parliament has tentatively approved the outline of the deal.  Once it is out of the way, its hoped that we’ll be able to get on with developing the other gold fields.  In the meantime, the arbitration with the other Toronto based mining company, (Stans), is going ahead although discussions between the two sides have started.

Although the agreement with the US doesn’t end for several months, the Manas Transit Base has finally entered its “winding down” phase with some equipment being withdrawn, some being handed over to the Kyrgyz, and the last rotation of troops either leaving or getting ready to go …  There has been yet more talk about who would be interested in helping to develop the Civilian Hub based on the airport once the military leave and various projections on the earnings that it is likely to make … although I do hope that these are not just wishful thinking – or else it might seem as if the sky has fallen once again.  (Pun intended).

In the meantime there have been further discussions over the possibility of introducing an Open Skies Policy, which could be an important instrument in developing the Hub concept, and it looks as if the Ministry of Transport, who are opposed, may have won the argument with the Ministry of the Economy , who were in favour.

There’s also been talk of the need to upgrade some of the other airports around the country – if the necessary finance can be found.

There has been some agreement with the Tajiks about holding joint border patrols, which sounds positive but then someone suggested that a fence should be erected along the border to prevent illicit cross border trffic, and I wonder how that will be taken.

The Kazakh border was also in the news. For a stretch the border runs along the course of the River Chu … I don’t know if this is actually true, but when I first came here it was explained to me that over a century ago the border was simply “the mountains” but that the Russians didn’t like this because they thought it was too vague and so they sought something more concrete and fixed to mark the border – and came up with the idea of the river.  Unfortunately, rivers do change their course over the course of time, (this time there was no pun intended), and it’s been pointed out that if we dont spend considerable sums of money on strengthening the river banks then the river could indeed change its course once again and the border could indeed move .. and would do so in Kazakhstan’s favour

 

Recently there has been a growing tendency to look at Religion in Society and the relationship between organized religion and the state.  Although the constitution states that Kyrgyzstan is a secular state, it guarantees freedom of religion although the legislation also places certain limitations on that freedom … such as requiring religious organizations, (for example the 1983 Islamic institutions and 372 Christian churches, etc.), to be registered; banning discrimination on religious grounds and religious political parties.  It is now being argued that the state policy is too lax and is allowing extremism to flourish … so it is necessary, it is argued, to tighten the controls that the state does have in this sphere.

One parliamentarian who is well known as standing firm in the Muslim tradition has called on the banning of St. Valentine’s Day … weeeelllll … sort of, but it was not quite as straight forward as that.

Just like the Mufti in Tajikistan he called upon Muslims to have nothing to do with it … as it was “of the devil” and was down the road to hell.  That’s fair enough … it’s his opinion and he has the right to give voice to it – especially when he is talking to like minded people, (provided, that is, he does not breach the principles of anti discrimination, inciting racial hatred and so on).

He also went on to say that activities to commemorate the day should be banned in schools – state schools, I presume … and I suppose that there are arguments in support of that position.

Although I understand that some schools did act on this advice – although schools in Osh were “prohibited” from marking the day in any way, although they were urged to organize events that stress “family values”.  It seems that, on the whole however, most people either didn’t hear the call – or ignored it.  There were several events both here in Bishkek and around the country … in Kostanay, the local police are stopping drivers to wish them a Happy Valentines Day, (OK, I know that’s in Kazakhstan), an there was at least one Deputy Minister that used Social Media to wish everyone a Happy St. Valentines Day … even making it the theme for his posts.

Maybe the sky will fall in on his head.

 

Once more, there is so much more to say – but  neither the space nor the time to cover it all … but let me finish with a comment about the weather … just like in Europe and the States we’ve been experiencing some unusual weather patterns … although nothing record breaking, (yet), but some extremely cold temperatures … even the cats are reluctant to venture out of doors … Still, it’s good for the skiing … and, it’s better to have snow falling on your head than the sky … or a meteorite!.

 

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Postcard from Bishkek: the weekly postcard that I send out as an email also gets posted on the website ianbek.kg each week – and there are other postcards which don’t get sent out.  This week, for example, there has been the following postcards:

• Travel times and distance …  – Maps can be deceiving – 09/02/14
• Town and Gown - On the anniversary of the St. Scholastica’s Day riots in Oxford in 1355 – which cost almost a hundred lives – a look at Higher Education in Kyrgyzstan – 10/02/14
• A Saint visits Kyrgyzstan - A surprise visit from an icon of Russian history; St. Sergius of Radonezh - 11/02/14
• Sambo - The Winter Olympics aren’t the only international sporting event going on in the world, we’ve just hosted an international Sambo competition  - 12/04/02
• Sadyrbaev Dooronbek - Thursday was the 75th anniversary of this filmmaker turned politician’s birth – 13/04/02
• Thirteen days in February - Why the Russians once arrived late for the Olympic Games – 14/02/04

It is possible to follow me on Facebook, (where we also have specific pages for Celestial Mountains, the Silk Road Lodge, The Celestial Mountains Guesthouse in Naryn  and also links.kg, Kyrgyz Diary and Kyrgyzstan Visitki … and not forgetting ianbek), and also on twitter, (@Bishkekpostcard and @celestialMTC ).

Tags: In_the_News, Life_in_Kyrgyzstan, Weekly_Postcards