Postcard from Bishkek

One of the inspirations behind my Postcard from Bishkek is the 15-minute weekly radio broadcast Letter from America by Alistair Cooke.

It ran for 2,869 broadcasts from 24 March 1946 to 20 February 2004, making it the longest-running speech radio programme in history and became a part of my regular routine as I would listen to the Sunday morning routine, doing the weekly ironing.

Each week, Cooke would speak of a topical issue about life in the USA, often tying together different strands of observation and anecdote, frequently ending on a humorous or poignant note.

Cooke was an ardent sports fan.  His favourite sports were Golf and Tennis and he used to be ribbed about the amount of coverage he gave to these two sports although he maintained that he restricted himself to just one mention of each a year.  Today might well have been the occasion for one of those mentions as it is the anniversary of the the premier international team event in men’s tennis: The Davis Cup.

The competition began in 1900 as a challenge between Britain and the United States and nowadays over 13o countries enter teams to compete for the prestigious trophy, Kyrgyzstan being one of them, although having played just nine matches.  Whilst our neighbours Kazakhstan are ranked 8th in the Davis cup rankings and Uzbekistan at 22nd, Kyrgyzstan lags behind somewhat, down at 118th place with just six points.

Daniyar Duldaev, however, might help to change that.  The twenty year old is Kyrgyzstan’s highest ranking tennis player and, currently ranked at 869, the first to enter the top 1000 players in the world.  In the last year he actually rose 1000 places in the rankings and at one point made it up to 827th place but he has problems in taking part in competitions where he can gain ranking points.  Most of his matches to date have been in tournaments in other CIS countries – and to progress further he will need to travel further afield, and play all year round.

Becoming the Kyrgyz Men’s Champion at the age of 14, (playing against adults), he was apparently courted by Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan and Russian to play for them but he decided that he wanted to play for Kyrgyzstan.  Just two years later rose to 162nd in the world rankings for his age group and in December last year, he competed in the Asian Championship in Thailand reaching the quarter finals in the singles competition.

He says that for him, the main thing in his life is Tennis.  That’s just as well.  It has needed a lot of dedication to progress as far as he has.  Although he has attracted some sponsorship, Tennis is not a traditional sport here and whilst there has been some support from the State Agency for Physical Culture and Sports, he says that, (when it comes to State support), priority tends to be given to sports like wrestling, boxing and judo.  He was introduced to the sport at an early  by his father, who now acts as his coach and manager, and his family are his main support as he goes from country to country, playing four or five tournaments in each one to economize on things like travelling expenses.

 For the record: We heard yesterday that the Women’s team playing in the Asia and Oceania Group of the Federation Cup which has been taking place in Astana, and they managed to beat Iran and Pakistan … but lost their matches against Malaysia and Indonesia … even so, that’s quite an achievement and lets hope that it may be a signal that it’s not just Daniyar Duldaev who carries the torch for Kyrgyzstan in this sport and there may be some more names to watch out for in the future.

As well as Daniyar, there are other things from Kyrgyzstan to watch out for …

This week, for example, there have been a number of stories that have kept the media busy.  I suppose that the biggest story, at least in terms of it’s potential impact on the country’s economy, was that Kumtor have published their response to the Parliamentary Commission which sought to impose sanctions on the mining company for alleged infringements of environmental regulations, renegotiating the investment agreement with the Canadian company, reorganizing the company in a way that looks suspiciously like nationalization … but under a different name and investigation the officials who signed the original agreements.   Not surprisingly they reject the criticisms out of hand … consider them to be overstated at best or completely wrong at worst.  They say that the investment agreement takes precedence over any Kyrgyz law, (which is a bit of moot point as far as I can see – and won’t go down very well here).

At least both sides have now stated their positions and are ready to talk … let’s hope that the talks prove to be more constructive than some others over the Falkland Islands that were supposed to have taken place in London this week – before the Argentinian Foreign Minister pulled out saying that William Hague refused to take part … or, at least, that’s how I understood the news reports I have seen.  I think there is a good chance that the approach to these will be more positive – because it is in nobody’s interest to take this all the way down to the line.

Kumtor have certainly been continuing to make plans as if they intend to be here for some time … with announcements of various programmes for ecological protection, supporting a sanctuary for snow leopards and other  snow leopard and other “non-commercial” projects.  Of course, that could just be a cynical PR exercise, but I don’t think so.

Anyway, it’s a story to keep an eye on.

 

If I was being cynical, then there another example of what looks like a PR exercise – this time emerging from the Americans … who are presumably still looking at the potential use of Manas airport as a logistitical and transit hub – after all, the ambassador let it drop that discussions between the two sides about what happens after the withdrawal from Afghanistan next year haven’t even begun yet.

The military, for example, have funded a series of training manuals for Kyrgyz teachers … but I hope they have a better follow up planned for this example of sponsorship than for a previous one.  Apparently they paid for the refurbishment and equipping of a Women’s Refuge in one of the towns outside Bishkek – and spent most of their Humanitarian Budget on it.  It was “opened” with a big fanfare, with visiting dignitaries and representatives of the media … and then handed over to the local partners … but it emerged some six months later than the center had never actually “opened” and was not being used; the “local partner” was focused on other issues – albeit directed at improving the situation for women entrepreneurs, but such charitable projects was not one of them.

Then there was the news that the Americans are giving some seventeen  million dollars worth of medicines to Kyrgyzstan.  Now, that will go down well, especially as the parliament has just voted to impose VAT on medicines … imposing a “tax on illness” was how I heard one accountant describe the decision.

And that’s just two examples of philanthropy

Mitt Romney may have lost the Presidential election, but one of the issues he did raise was the effective use of America’s aid budget … which made the analytical comments in the international press asking, just what is America’s interest here in Central Asia all the more interesting and apposite.  The link with the fight against the drugs trade might well be another prong in America’s approach … but they seem in competition with the Russians there, (who have a direct interest in the issue).

Anyway, that’s another story to keep an eye on.

 

All the world’s largest countries all seem to be showing considerable interest in Kyrgyzstan (and Central Asia as a whole at the moment), in this twenty first century version of the Great Game.  The US is the fourth biggest country in the world, Canada the third – and the both China, (the second) and Russia, (the largest), are also competing for influence.

One analysis suggested that where they are definitely competing, at least its not on the military front … but they are both heavily involved in the economy and infrastructure projects.

China continues to make inroads, especially into the transport network.  The feasibility study for the China-Kyrgyzstan-Uzbekistan railway was delivered this week, and they even though the cost has skyrocketed to something like four billion dollars, they still keen to finance it – albeit for some quid-pro-quo.  The government seem to think that it will be making hundreds of millions of profit within a very short space of time … but I am not sure if it’s clear how much of that will find its way into the budget or even stay here in Kyrgyzstan.

The decision is not without its critics, however … and the argument that a North South route, (linking the Chu and Ferghana valleys), is a far more logical step forward has been getting quite a bit of coverage.

As an aside: it was announced during the week that last year Kyrgyz railways carried over half a million passengers … which isn’t bad when you consider how small the rail network is … apparently most of them were carried on the three day trip between Bishkek and Moscow.  That struck me as quite an impressive statistic.

The Chinese  have also  provided three aircraft to Kyrgyzstan – two of them on a lease and the third was a gift.

As an aside – you know how I love statistics – it seems that last year there were 20,000 international flights that passed through Manas – that’s about 400 a week, or 60 a day, so I presume that includes those passing in and out of the transit center.  It will be interesting to compare that figure with the number in 2015 and 2016 after the withdrawal from Afghanistan … that’s definitely a story to keep an eye on.

Russia, of course, has a lot of Central Asians, (especially Kyrgyz and Tajiks), employed as migrant workers, and their remittances back to their families is a great boost to the local economy.  Recent developments, however, suggest that this bubble may be about to burst or least fizzle out.  The new rules that require migrant workers to pass a language test and have knowledge about the host country is causing some problems and even the Orthodox Church has stepped in holding special classes for would be migrant workers,  Then there was the news of migrant workers possibly being “exploited”, for example – on the construction of sites for the Winter Olympics in Sochi … being paid 600 rubles a day but then being “fined” 1000 or 1500 rubles for missing a day because they are sick.  Obviously, I can’t vouch for accuracy of the accusations, but it is certainly a story that is going to crop up again and again in the future and we need to keep an eye on.

As it happens, the Kyrgyz are getting even more strident on the question of language.  I have mentioned before the new rule that advertising hoardings will only be allowed to display text in the State language,  (Kyrgyz), or the official one, (Russian), and will not be allowed to use anything other than the Cyrillic language.  So, when it was announced that the local authority had conducted a raid and dismantled a whole host of advertising hoardings, it was natural to assume that this was probably connected with this new innovation, (please excuse the tautology).  However, although some of them were dismantled because of language, it seems to have been a much more mundane and bureaucratic issue … the vast majority seemed to be that the owners hadn’t obtained the necessary permits!

 

It’s not just the big countries that are taking an interest in us.  Our neighbour, Uzbekistan, is never far from the headlines.

Both the local  and international media have been carrying stories about the possible extradition of a mullah to Uzbekistan.  He’s lived here for almost twenty years and the Uzbeks have now made a formal request for him.  He doesn’t seem to be that worried by some accounts, but Human Rights Watch have sent an open letter to the President urging that the extradition should not take place as, they say, he will face torture if he does go back.

A refusal would, probably, not go down well in Tashkent … but relations between Bishkek and Tashkent have had been on a roller coaster ride for some time.  The issues go back a long way, much further than the “recent” incidents in June 2010, followed by the events in the Sokh enclave last month.  At least some of the border crossings are now open having closed following the latest outburst.  The government have said that they want to try and sort out the question of  disputed borders by the end of the year and Ministers have been instructed to put into effect as a matter of urgency measures to develop the border areas of the remote Batken oblast.

There might be some more thorny problems on the horizon, particularly over the management of water resources – I have been hearing talk about this ever since I first came here in 1995 – and hydroelectric projects which the Russians are also keen on developing … another are of growing influence in the region.  There was an attempt to try and get talks started on the next steps but it seems that the Uzbeks are being intransigent and refusing to participate … which sounds familiar – Like talks between Britain and Argentina over the Falklands.

However, there were a couple of bright spots in the relationships between the two countries this week.  It was President Karimov’s birthday and Almazbek Atambaev sent him a congratulatory message … President to President … birthdays a re pretty big here.  Anyway, President Karimov sent a reply saying, “Thank you for the Congratulations”.  As one tweet put it: “How polite!” … but I think the author author was being sarcastic which took the shine off the news.

The second was a report that an MP had suggested that President Karimov might be interested in selling the Sokh enclave to Kyrgyzstan, for 1.5 or 2 billion dollars.   He didn’t say on what he based his comments – was it wishful thinking?, or has a little bird whispered in his ear?  It seems very odd to me … but even if it were true, I can’t see how Kyrgyzstan could raise the money to seal the deal.  This all led to the speculation that a land swap might be arranged instead … apparently something like this has been on the table before … but, judging by the way officials are likely to be under investigation – for example for signing documents with Kumtor –  I think officials might be, understandably, a little reluctant to sign such a deal.  Remember, it was similar land swaps with Kazakhstan and, particularly,  China that started the public expressions of dissatisfaction with the Akaev regime! … and we know how that story unfolded … So, that’s definitely another story to keep an eye on!

 

Another story that has hogged the headlines this week has the mass desertion of thirty nine soldiers who left their post gaurding the Presidential Residence on the Southern outskirts of Bishkek.  According to public statements made by some of them, it was done to draw attention to the unreasonableness of their officers.  There were several surprising things about this … tapart from the fact that they were supposed to be protecting the compound which houses the homes of the President, government Ministers and other VIPs, these weren’t new recruits trying to come to terms with life in the army – such as bullying, which is supposedly rife in the services and videos showing examples have even been posted on youtube – just as they appear to be in Russia, the UK and America if the stories we read in the papers are anything to go by.   (Apparently more American serving in the armed forces committed suicide last year than were killed in action).

The army started searching for them straight away – apparently receiving the assistance of some the relatives – and within a couple of days they were all back in barracks.  They had been warned before they caught or gave themselves up that the Prosecutor General’s office would be looking into the case and there would be punishments … maybe they think that public opinion is likely to be on their side …

Actually, there has been quite a debate about the role of the military – especially since the trial of the soldiers on duty during the revolution in April 2010 – who are now being tried for abuse of power and executing “illegal orders” by firing into the crowds.   There was a very long and powerful piece published by one of the news agencies that delved into the conflict of obligations faced by serving military and provided alot of food for thought,

 

Being involved in business, stories about tax always attract my attention.  This week there have been several stories ranging from the news that, in addition to the companies involved in food processing being exempted from Profit tax that I mentioned last week, now farmers are to be exempted from paying income tax.

There was also the news that the introduction of universal tax declarations that everyone was going to have to file with the authorities as from March this year is to be delayed – until 2014 at the earliest – and probably until 2015.  At the moment companies have to file, public servants and foreigners – for example, me … but the forms are considered to be too complicated for the average citizen, the official are not trained – and there probably aren’t enough of them, to deal with the flood of data.  I am not sure what was most surprising about the news – the fact that the head of the tax service, himself is against the measure – at least at the present time – or the fact that there has been a bit of an outcry about it being postponed.  ”How are we to combat corruption and the shadow economy if we don’t introduce such measures?”, those protesting the decision ask.  ”How will we ever know if the forms are too complicated if we don’t try? – There should at least be a trial or pilot system” they add.

In terms of the fight against corruption and the shadow economy, there have been yet more arrests of officials caught in the act of asking for and accepting bribes, or misusing their position of authority to place orders with family and friends.

As an aside, a new law has been proposed which would prohibit serving police office from participating in protest meetings, (when they are supposed to be on duty), or from having their own businesses.

There have also been a series of “raids” on businesses such as car washes and Billiard Halls, to ensure that the right amount of tax has been collected.

 

The other BIG story this week has concerned pedophilia … If it sounds like the Jimmy Saville case simply being transported to Central Asia, its not – even though it has been arousing the same sort of fervour, emotion and media attention.   Apparently there has been a significant rise in the number of cases investigated by the police – I was shocked when I head the figures, espcially given the fact that is a small country – and a law has been proposed that would introduce Chemical Castration as a punishment for anyone sexually assaulting a child.  One deputy has balked at this … especially at the cost, (apparently something USD6000 a year for each case, and he asks why society), including the victim’s parents, should have to foot the bill.  He also wonders what happens if they miss their monthly injection for some reason or another.  Instead, he suggests, physical castration should be applied.  There has, however, been some criticism of this approach, especially concerning the possibility of miscarriages of justice and the irreversibility of the measure.

 

There were some other stories that caught my eye during the week that I thought I would pass on:

Once again it has been suggested that a number of ministries should be transfer out of Bishkek and relocated in Osh.  I say once again because this has been suggested several times before.  Although  several ministries and agencies have a regional office in the South,  I think that the only administrative headquarters of a Republican body that has actually been relocated is the Border Guards.

We have been warned that February is likely to be a severe month in terms of the weather.  The forecast is for lower than usual temperatures and unseasonal weather such as fog.  Oddly enough, we’ve had several days of quite mild weather this week, although, I have to admit, it has been somewhat chilly.

Then there was the news that the Historical Museum is proposing to dismantle its displays which are dedicated to Lenin, and move them to another location and the creation of a special Lenin Museum … they are considered too valuable to simply discard …  because they don’t tell the story of Kyrgyzstan.   In a way I think this is regrettable … the Historical Museum is famous for the hagiography of it’s displays, (eleven sculptures depicting scenes like the Battleship Potemkin and Krasnaya Presnya, and its ceiling murals), and it will be a pity to lose that.  I suppose, however, that a lot depends on what they put in its place, (they shouldn’t, for example, simply forget the Soviet period), and how they preserve the displays in their new home.

 

 

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Postcard from Bishkek: the weekly postcard that I send out as an email also gets posted on the website ianbek.kg each week – and there are other postcards which don’t get sent out.  This week, for example, there has been the following postcards:

• Crossing Torugart - At the moment, those people wanting to travel the Silk Road overland, they basically have to travel through Kyrgyzstan and the most frequent route takes them across the Torugart Pass - 03/02/13
• Facebook - On February 4th, 2004, a new social networking site was launched that connects people, to keep up with friends, upload photos, share links and videos : Facebook, which has become the leading social networking platform here in Kyrgyzstan – 4/02/13
• The Family Frunze - to mark the anniversary of the change of name to Bishkek from Frunze, I took a look at the members of the relatives of the General – 05/02/13
•  Samsa - an example of typical “Street Food” here in Kyrgyzstan – 06/02/13
• Kambar – the first Komuzist - the legend of Kambar, who is supposed to have invented the archetypal Kyrgyz musical instrument: The Komuz – 07/02/13
•  Locked in - a description of how I found myself locked in the office when the key broke off in the lock – and how I eventually released myself … just another day – 08/02/13

 

It is now possible to follow me on Facebook, (where I have specific pages for Celestial Mountains and ianbek … and also links.kg and Kyrgyz Diary), and on twitter, (@Bishkekpostcard and @celestialMTC ).

Tags: Expat, Life_in_Kyrgyzstan, People, Sport, Weekly_Postcards