Coughs and sneezes, bloodshot eyes, rashes … all telltale symptoms of a potential allergy

As regular readers of my postcards will be aware. I have a number of cats – the number varies from time to time – it’s been down to one and as high as eleven.

The original, (Synock – sonny), was a gift from a friend and got on with everyone … but one day whilst playing in the yard two ladies took a fancy to him, picked him up and carried him off.  Everyone in the office and among our neighbours was distraught but one of our staff took pity on me and brought me a pair of kittens – brother and sister from one litter – and said “Choose one”.  My immediate response was “One?”, thinking that it would be good for them to keep each other company.  Sure enough, I kept them both.

Over the years, others have arrived, either as strays … or simply abandoned by people who seemed to know that we would take them in and look after them until we could find them a home.

I know that cats are extremely popular subjects for posting as photos or video clips on the internet … they are so cuddly and cute.  They are not, however, universally admired.

For a start, the domestic cat has been identified as a voracious hunter, responsibly for the decimation of bird populations ion many rural areas … oddly enough, although that seems to be frowned upon, their use as “mousers” usually gains them admiration and praise … so long as they don’t bring their prey home and proudly display it to their “owners”.

Back in the UK, I had a friend who was very fond of my cat, Rosie, he would always shoo him away.  (Yes, Rosie was indeed male – a Tom cat but when he arrived as an extremely young kitten it wasn’t so obvious and … well … I made a mistake … and was too lazy to correct it once it did become obvious).  The problem was that Rosie would wander – cats do … there is some research which shoes that cover an immense amount of territory (which they may share – cohabit) along with other neighbouring cats.  The social interaction may have been beneficial to the character development but it also exposes them to other things – including cat fleas.  Apparently Rosie became infested.  They were very strange fleas, however, because they didn’t seem to affect Rosie, me or anyone else who came to visit – just Jeremy.  They really developed an appetite for his blood.  Because they were such fussy feeders and selective in their choice of victim, it took us a while to identify the source of his problem – and to eradicate it.

As it happens. It is not just a case of treating the animal itself, (for example, washing it with special shampoo …), you have to treat the whole premises because the flea lays its eggs off the animal, for example, in the carpet.

In fact, pest infestation, annoying though it may be, is not as serious as another reason that some people are less than enthralled to see them – some people are allergic to cats … and the effects of the allergy can be quite serious – and even debilitating.  One person actually said that his allergy made him feel like a social outcast – as many people, even close friends, do not understand and realize how serious a problem it presents.  Some sufferers report, for example, that the allergy is so sensitive that they don’t even have to come into contact with the cat – but can tell when meeting someone for the first time if they have a cat … the allergens contained in the cat’s skin and fur transferred to the clothes of their owner and eliciting a response in the sufferer.

Although some visitors to the office are enraptured by the cat’s presence, there are others who find their presence unnerving.  That seems to include quite a few Kyrgyz – I suppose that might have something to do with the fact that, (even if they are good hunters and useful for catching vermin), being territorial and nocturnal creatures, cats, unlike dogs, are not really adapted to the nomadic lifestyle that the Kyrgyz have practiced over the Centuries.

Some people are simply not used to cats,  others dislike anything small and furry, and in a couple of cases it seems to be a phobia … but, occasionally, they tell me they are allergic to cats … and when that happens, of course we move from the office to a new location.

Allergies have been in the news quite a lot recently.  So many stories have appeared that I was little surprised to discover a “World Allergy Day”, aiming to raise awareness among the population and focus attention on the problems that it causes for sufferers and measures that can be taken to help them.  Of cause, if it is just a case that my research was not particularly effective – I am sure that someone will tell me.

One of the news items that caught my attention referred to research that claims to have discovered how allergic reactions to cats are triggered – and which raises hope of being able to develop some form of preventative medicine.

Another told of a father of four who died as a result of a reaction to a bite from a horsefly.  Apparently it all happened very quickly – he probably died within about 15 minutes of having been bitten … Fortunately, it is also very rare.

Allergies come in many different guises – but it is not just animals that can provide the trigger.  These triggers cause “reactions” as the immune system respond to what are actually, to most of us, harmless substances as if they were a threat to the body.  Typical symptoms can include sneezing and rashes … and unfortunately, in some cases, what can be life threatening anaphylactic reactions,

Perhaps the most common form of allergy is Hay Fever … which causes an inflammation of the nasal airways when an allergen such as pollen, dust or animal dander (particles of skin and hair) is inhaled by someone who has a “sensitized immune system”.

Some people are also allergic to certain foods, such as: Milk, Fish and Shellfish, Eggs, Peanuts, Soy, Wheat and Kiwi Fruit.

It seems that allergies are becoming more and more prevalent.  One survey conducted in 2007 suggested that the number of hospital admissions for people suffering the effects of food allergies had increased by a factor of five over the previous 20 or so years.  Scientists are not sure what are the reasons for such a marked increase but among the various theories I have seen, are suggestions that it is a result of changing way of life; that our urban environment creates a greater exposure to substances which provoke an immune reaction are much greater than they used to be … conveyed, for example, by air pollution or in modern products.  Indeed, modern hygienic practices in such environments may actually deprive us of access to microbiota, (yes, I had to look that one up – apparently it is a word), which are beneficial for the development and maintenance of the immune system.

For the record, another recently published piece of research also found a link between the lack of “green spaces” in urban environments with higher levels of stress among the population.

Oddly enough, when we do venture out into the countryside we find ourselves at risk – even for those who don’t suffer from allergies.

There are plants that secrete chemicals which can cause reactions.  The “stinging nettle”, (Urtica dioica), is perhaps the classic example.  Yes, we do have stinging nettles here in Kyrgyzstan

Another is Fraxinella – known as Kupina in Russian – with its light rose coloured flowers, is sometimes associated with the burning bush found by Moses on the slopes of Mount Sinai. Glands in the plant exude essential oils and when a lighted match is brought near to the plant, the air around it seems to ignite with a light blue flame – but leaving the plant intact. In fact the air around the plant carries a mix of particles which help protect it from the heat of the sun during the day and extreme cold in the night and it is this that burns.  As Fraxinella is known to gro here in Kyrgyzstan, I think that calls for two “words of warning”:

• Do NOT try this for yourselves – it is NOT a good idea to take a match to a piece of vegetation – especially in the heat of the summer as there is a great risk of fires which can devastate the environment as well as endanger property, life and limb – and
• The plant needs to be handled with care – protect your skin – those same substances given off by the plant can also burn the skin and, unfortunately, the effects are not immediate but only appear after the passage of some time. It is best NOT to pick the flowers.

Then, there are insects … Mosquitoes and other biting insects have probably done more to ruin a wilderness experience than anything else known to man or woman.  But mosquitoes and other blood-feeding insects are more than a minor annoyance. According to the Centre for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), diseases transmitted by mosquitoes, ticks, biting flies, fleas, gnats, and other biting insects are becoming a major public health problem. Mosquitoes can carry such serious diseases as Encephalitis, Yellow Fever, Malaria, and Dengue Fever.   Both Tick borne Encephalitis, and Malaria known to occur in Kyrgyzstan, so it is best to be prepared.

Methods of Protection

• Use an insect repellent:
  • Always follow the label directions carefully.
  • Apply only to exposed skin and/or clothing as directed on the product label. Do not use under clothing.
  • Never use repellents over cuts, wounds, or irritated skin.
  • Do not apply to eyes and mouth.
  • Do not apply to the hands of young children who are prone to putting hands in their mouth. Also, use a lower concentration product for children.
  • Use just enough repellent to cover exposed skin and/or clothing. Saturation is unnecessary for effectiveness.
  • After returning indoors, wash treated skin with soap and water.
  • Always keep insect repellents out of reach of small children.
• Dress in
• light-coloured clothing to spot ticks more easily. Wear collared long-sleeved shirts and long pants/trousers with cuffs for maximum protection. Tuck your shirt into your pants and pants into your socks or boots.
• loose clothing –  to help prevent bites from bugs that can reach their biting apparatus through tight clothing.
• Look for ticks several times during the day or before you return indoors. Check especially around the scalp, nape of the neck, behind the ears and knees, and under the armpits.
• • Remove ticks completely with tweezers or tick remover. Grasp the tick close to the skin, as close as possible to the tick’s mouth and pull outward without twisting until the mouthpart is released. Avoid the tick’s bloated abdomen, which can act like a syringe if squeezed.
  • Don’t use heat or suffocation methods. Petroleum jelly, nail polish, rubbing alcohol, cigarettes, or lighted matches will only serve to sicken the tick and may increase the chance of a host tick injecting you with dangerous bacteria.
• If bitten by an insect or tick, treat the area with a bite relief formula for relief of pain, itching, and swelling. If symptoms persist, consult a doctor.
• As some insects, especially mosquitoes, feed primarily at dawn and dusk, and sometimes throughout the night, if you are camping then if possible use a tent with adequate insect netting or sleep under a mosquito net.

Just a couple of weeks ago, I was surprised when I happened, by chance, to run into an acquaintance here in Bishkek … I say “surprised” because I knew that he was supposed to have been in the mountains helping his grandfather to collect honey from the family’s beehives.  So what was he doing in Bishkek.  It appears that he got stung by one of the bees and experienced a serious reaction so he was rushed back to the city for treatment.  He was equally surprised when he was told it was an allergic reaction because, up until then he didn’t know that he had an allergy … to anything, yet alone Bee stings.  (As he told me the story, I couldn’t help but think of the fate that befell MacCauly Culkin in My Girl.)  Fortunately, he quickly recovered … but I don’t think he’ll be helping Grandpa any more in the future.

Traveling with food allergies:

Another form of allergy which can be debilitating and ruin a holiday, (if not actually lethal), is when someone suffers reaction to certain foods … whether it be to Soy, Nuts, Lactose, Cholesterol, Eggs, Fish …

For those who suffer such an allergy, then the first thing to do when planning a trip is to do some research … find out what foods are likely to be available in the area so that they have an idea of what dishes to avoid ….

Secondly … tell someone.  If, they are traveling with a tour operator, then it should be stadard practice to let them know about special dietary requirements – life “No nuts” … so that they can inform the service providers along the itinerary.     In addition, without necessarily “making a fuss” about it, it would be a good idea to make sure that their traveling companions are also aware.

In addition, it’s a good idea to carry a “card” listing the “forbidden fruits” whatever they happen to be in the appropriate languages.  Not  only can this be shown to waiters in cafes and restaurants in the case of any uncertainty – it can be invaluable if an emergency does arise.

They should make sure that they carry any medication with them at all times … just in case.

It’s a good idea to carry some “user friendly” snacks – whether it be a special Granola bar or even fresh carrots or apples.   That’s fairly good advice for anyone – not just those who suffer intolerance to some particular foodstuffs.

Staying Healthy whilst on the move

Although holidays are usually thought to be for rest and relaxation - travel can be somewhat stressful.

It is sometimes surprising how tiring a journey can be – even just sitting on a plane flying from A to B.  A journey is never a simple thing – there are the pressures of packing, (what to include, what to leave out, trying to get everything into a small bag – and within the weight limit); the hassle of traveling to the airport, (making sure you get there in plenty of time for check in); then having to ”hang around” waiting in queues, (or otherwise); dealing with airport security measures; worrying about delayed or cancelled flights, and the possibility of lost (or “delayed” baggage).

To try and avoid this stress, one seasoned traveler offers the following advice:

• Set a budget and choose a holiday to fit it … so you don’t have to spend your time “counting the pennies”.
• If possible, choose your travelling companions carefully – even the best of friends can “fall out” when they spend long periods together …
• If you want to escape from having to make day-to-day decisions, consider an all-inclusive package deal - and hand the responsibility for them to your tour operator …
• Consider a “thematic” tour – especially if you are travelling alone – where you will meet like minded individuals …
• Travel light – and pack simple combinations …
• Leave your valuables (jewelry, etc.) at home …
• Give yourself plenty of time … for example: arrive early at the airport …
• Don’t try to cram too much into the itinerary … it may be the only time you visit somewhere like Kyrgyzstan – but maybe not … and you’ll less exhausted, be more relaxed and likely to get far more out of a more leisurely approach …
• Plan for the unexpected – for example, a delayed flight … have something to do while you are waiting (such as have something to read), and don’t plan for important (“not-to-be-missed”) meetings on your first day back from holiday …
• Learn to “Relax, and go with the flow” …

One of the biggest sources of stress is dealing with health problems – anything from an upset stomach, toothache, to being hospitalized … having to cope with communicating in a foreign language and not forgetting the expenses incurred … so I thought it would be appropriate to consider the advice that we offer on Healthy Traveling:

This information is based on guidelines and is given on an “as is” basis – please note that I am not a doctor and so cannot give advice on medical matters … travelers should always seek professional advice about particular issues from a qualified person – a medical practitioner such as their doctor or “travel clinic”.

Also, please remember that under Kyrgyz law, all tourists must have insurance to cover the cost of medical treatment.

General Points:

• before departure:
  • visit your doctor to find out if any vaccinations or health checks are required
    • if you are prescribed malarial medication, take it as prescribed – prior to leaving, while in risk areas and when you return
  • make up a small medical kit. Include items such as headache tablets, antacids, antiseptic lotion, cotton wool, band-aids, latex gloves, safety pins, sunscreen and an appropriate insect repellent.
  • Plan your itinerary so that you “pace” yourself:
    • Think about jet lag. It will affect you less if you fly west.
    • Build in periods for rest and recuperation
    • Don’t over-exercise, especially in hot weather.
• while travelling:
  • keep important medication with you in case your luggage goes missing
  • be aware that items such as pins and tweezers cannot be taken on board in your hand luggage
  • take enough medication with you to cover the length of the trip – it may not be available overseas
  • keep taking your prescribed medication
  • where local tap water is not safe, drink plenty of bottled water (also use this to brush your teeth) and always check the seal on the bottle
  • avoid ice in cool drinks – it may not be pure. (Freezing preserves germs, it does not kill them )
  • beware of uncooked food including salads and fruit that you cannot peel
  • wear comfortable shoes, a hat and sunscreen for sightseeing
  • wear a pair of thongs when showering
  • practice safe sex – HIV/AIDS and other sexually transmitted disease are widespread in many countries.
• upon your return:
  • continue any courses of treatment which you have started – e.g. for malaria
  • if you fall ill shortly after you return home – consult your doctor and tell them where you have been.

Inoculations:

Technically, at the time of writing, none are required … however; you may want to consider

• tetanus,
• diphtheria,
• cholera and
• typhoid

inoculations to be on the safe side.

The Centre for Disease Control in Atlanta also recommends (according to age)

• Hepatitis A and B, and
• Rabies (“if you might be exposed to wild or domestic animals through your work or recreation”.)

However, please ask your doctor or local Travel Clinic about these and other possibilities.

First Aid Kit:

If you are putting together your own “First Aid Kit” to bring with you, then you might want to consider the following suggestions for what should be included, which is taken from the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office:

• Bandages – triangular, and crepe bandages, and absorbent wound dressings;
• Mixed sticking plasters and surgical tape;
• Wound closure strips;
• Antiseptic cream;
• Iodine to irrigate wounds;
• Tweezers, scissors, safety pins, thermometer and a magnifying glass;
• Scalpel and blades;
• Syringes (2x5ml) and needles;
• Sun screen;
• Insect repellent;
• Calamine lotion for insect bites and stings;
• Anti-histamine tablets/cream;
• Anti-diarrhea tablets;
• Re-hydration sachets for treating diarrhea and dehydration;
• Aspirin or Paracetamol;
• Water sterilizing tablets

Jet Lag:

Jet Lag is a term for the affects suffered by travelers when crossing several time zones, typically .tiredness, insomnia, general malaise and nausea It is thought that it results from the body’s biological clock (sometimes referred to as the diurnal clock) being “put out of synch” by the rapid change of time zones. Some sources suggest that it is worse for people traveling East into the sun, rather than when traveling West. As there are very few air connections to Bishkek from the East, most people will probably be traveling East and so susceptible to this.

There are tablets available in some Western countries that seem to be quite effective for some travelers – but the general advice seems to be a combination of:

• Drinking lots of fluids – not alcohol
• Eating light meals
• On arrival try to get as much light and adjust your daily routine (meals, sleep, etc.) to the time zone in which you have arrived. For example, don’t keep asking yourself “what time is it at home? …” and reminding yourself how long you have been awake … try to stay awake and go to sleep at the same time as you normally would at home – but according to local clocks, not the clocks at home.

Travel Sickness:

Travel sickness is often belittled by those who have never suffered it, whilst dreaded by those who regularly suffer from it. (Many journeys in Kyrgyzstan cover long distances and the roads are not always very good – so motion sickness can be a real issue for people visiting Kyrgyzstan.)

Motion sicken is a disturbance of the sense of balance and equilibrium as a result of different kinds of motion. (For example, if you are sitting in a moving car reading a book, your inner ear detects the motion of your travel, but your eyes see only the stationary pages of your book.) This confuses your central nervous system and brings on nausea.

There are various “treatments” suggested by travellers … including “over-the-counter” medications and treatments such as patches, tablets and acupressure hand bands. Other practical ideas include letting the sufferer have the front seat; watching the horizon; not reading; taking sips of water; lie down and sip water until the stomach settles; going to sleep, (if you can); sucking peppermints (or ginger tablets); sit facing the direction of travel; try to get fresh air – e.g. keep the car window open; avoid spicy or greasy foods, alcohol and carbonated drinks; eat light meals before and during the journey and don’t watch or talk to another person who is experiencing motion sickness.

Deep Vein Thrombosis:

Many visitors to the Kyrgyz Republic face a long flight. A problem which has to come public attention in recent years associated with long distance flights is that of Deep Vein Thrombosis (or DVT). This is a condition involving the formation of blood clots in the veins of the legs and is thought to arise from prolonged periods of inactivity.

Actually, DVT may be associated with other forms of long-distance travel (e.g. by road, or rail) which involve prolonged periods of inactivity – but it is particularly associated with flights.

To minimise the risk of DVT, it is recommended that you:

• drink plenty of non-alcoholic, non-caffeinated fluids
• regularly exercise the lower limbs to encourage blood flow
• wear loose, non-restrictive clothing and avoid crossing your legs
• avoid using sleeping tablets or other sedation in flight

There is a range of other risk factors which affect the onset of the condition, including increasing age, obesity, pregnancy, cancers and heart disease, recent surgery or lower limb injuries, and use of oral contraceptives or hormone replacement therapy. If you are in one or more of these higher risk groups, we recommend that you consult a doctor before flying, who may recommend that you consider other measures such as elastic support stockings, aspirin, or other medication.

Medication:

If you are taking medication for an existing condition, then don’t forget to bring it with you – bring enough for your trip, do not rely on being able to find it here in Kyrgyzstan. Although many medicines are imported, you cannot rely on them being available, especially in rural regions.

It would be a good idea to carry a copy of your prescription.

In some countries, it is an offence to carry (or post) certain medicines abroad unless they are for your personal use, or the use of someone travelling with you. In Kyrgyzstan you can bring medicines for your own use – adequate for the purpose and length of stay – but not so much that it might appear that you carrying them for someone else – or for sale.

Remember that medicines which you can obtain at home, even some of those which are available “over the counter”, may not simply be unavailable in some parts of the world, they may even be illegal. We don’t anticipate any problems in the Kyrgyz Republic in this respect – but, if in doubt, check.

Leave medicine in its original packaging so it is clearly labelled with your name and dosage instructions.

If you have to inject medication it might be preferable to carry your own needles and syringes but you should check on the regulations in the countries you are visiting, (and check with the airline before you travel and if necessary, arrange a letter from your doctor explaining why you need to carry them.)

It is important to be aware that some items purchased overseas may be packaged under a different brand name to those available at home. Even where the names are and packaging seem similar, or even identical, to that used at home, keep an eye on the strength and active ingredients of similar-sounding medications abroad – they can vary.

Traditionally, in Kyrgyzstan, herbal remedies are commonplace.

If you wear a bracelet/medallion etc. indicating particular health problems that require special emergency treatment see about the possibility of translations.

…. and last, but not least:

Insurance: 

Under Kyrgyz law – every tourist needs medical and accident insurance cover.

You can buy travel insurance in Kyrgyzstan but we recommend that you have your own travel insurance should you fall ill or need emergency medical treatment while in Kyrgyzstan (or elsewhere on your trip). Kyrgyzstan has reasonable doctors but hospital facilities and equipment (and medicines) are often poor, hospitals are sometimes overcrowded and dirty and generally simply not up to Western standards.

Mountain rescue services will not turn-out unless there is pre-payment or guarantee of payment.

Additionally – as any responsible tour firm would – we also suggest that you should also consider taking out your own comprehensive insurance for delays, missed flights, your cancellation, your change of plans, loss of baggage, etc.

Most travel insurance policies do not cover drink or drug related incidents … so be careful what you drink – and never become involved with drugs (which are illegal – and carry serious consequences – in Kyrgyzstan).  There have been a growing number of news stories in Britain (and elsewhere) concerning people who discovered that their travel insurance did not cover their costs because the people had been drinking …

As the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office advise on their website :

If you can’t afford the insurance, you can’t afford to go.

@triptokg on Facebook produced a list of the most popular sites in the Chui oblast.

A couple of weeks ago there was an interesting news report which said that an project established with the aim of helping the development of tourism in Kyrgyzstan had identified the ten most popular sites in the Chui oblast here in Northern Kyrgyzstan.

The results were based on requests for information that they had received and responded to in their first year  of operation … I am told that they received over 4000 such requests.

That made it a particularly interesting list.  Most lists of highlights are composed by people like me … people who know the places and list some of their personal favourites – places that they found interesting – but this list was comprised of places which people had heard of form one source or another (perhaps friends or family who had already visited them, or a blog post, or a reference in a guide book), and had decided that they were interested in seeing more.

I scanned this particular list with interest …

Some of the entries were no surprise – but some were a little unexpected unexpected.  I was intrigued by the range of geographical areas covered (within the oblast), the types of sites and the different activities could be undertaken.

The list included, (as far as I am aware, in no particular order):

• The Ala Archa National Park … no surprise here because this seems to be on everyone’s list of “Must see … Must do” lists – a beautiful alpine valley just 40 kilometers south of Bishkek in the Kyrgyz Krebet with a variety of routes for trekking, or places to simply relax and have a picnic.  It stretches for some 18 kilometers up the valley, covering about 194 square kilometers and the altitude varies from 1500 to 4895 meters above sea level.  It contains within its boundaries something like 50 mountain peaks, 20 glaciers, waterfalls and springs feeding two major rivers.
• Zhashyl Kol or Green Lake … this refers to a lake at the head of the Chon Kemin valley just over 150 kilometers to the East of Bishkek, in the Kungey Ala Too just North of Issyk Kul.  From the end of the Road, a trek or horse ride takes one to Green Lake set in a stark picturesque valley.
• Suusamyr … Most people simply zoom through this lush green high mountain meadow on the far side of the Kyrgyz Krebet as they travel along the Bishkek-Osh highway but it’s worth staying longer.
• The Kegety Waterfall … up a side valley from the narrow Kegety Gorge in the Kyrgyz Krebet, a trek or horse ride can take one up to the Bel Saz jailoo, the Sharkyratma waterfall, Kushkonok forest, Kisl Beles forest, Chaunde Gorom viewpoint and Kara Unkur (Crying cave).
• The Chunkurchak Gorge … Only 25 kilometres from Bishkek, this tiny gorge lies to the east of the village of Tash Dobo. It is the home of the Chunkurchak State Biological Reserve – created to protect the sites where rare verities of tulips grow – such as the Craig Tulip (“King Tulip”), which can grow heads as wide as 15-18 cms, and the Zinaida Tulip which sports bright red flowers with green veins on the outside and yellow-gold inside. The flowers usually bloom in April and May. The gorge itself is very narrow at the mouth and not easy to find. Once inside it opens out to form a wider Tahr valley, which boasts 200m cliffs towering over a rushing stream. It is famous for the Pigeon’s waterfall. 
• Coronet Peak … at the head of the Ala Archa valley, at the head of the Ak Sai glacier, comprising of six individual peaks, (or towers), arranged in a semicircle, or  horseshoe … or crown – hence the name Coronet Peak.
• Kol Tor Lake … a trek from the narrow Kegety Gorge in the Kyrgyz Krebet takes you up the Kol-Tor gorge, a side valley, to the Kol-Tor lake (Dead Lake) with it’s turquoise water and numerous beautiful waterfalls.
• The Chon Kemin National Park … founded in 1997 in the Chon-Kemin river valley, the park included almost all the forest farms of the Kemin district. The park’s main task is to preserve the unique landscapes with their diversity of fauna and flora. It contains a hunting and a botanical reserves – and the mausoleum of Shabdan Baatyr.
• The Konorchak Canyons … some 125 km from Bishkek these canyons stretch for nearly 200 km. To see Konorchak Canyons completely would take a long time – but it is possible to spend a few days exploring the spectacular scenery. The canyons have romantic names like “Grand Canyon”, “Bobsleigh” and “Skyskraper”. They were formed about one and a half to two million years ago and since that time erosion by wind and water has turned a plain plateau into gigantic stone pillars, some of which are 400-500 meters high. The canyons see almost no precipitation at any season of the year – between 1980 and 1990 the canyons received no snowfall at all, and in the last decade of the twentieth century snow has fallen twice. If the air temperature in Bishkek is 20 degrees below zero, in the Konorchak Canyons it is +5 degrees – however, in recent times the climate in the Canyons is becoming a little colder. One peculiarity of the Konorchak Canyons is that plants growing there tend to be very large – much larger than usual. One of the main attractions at Konorchak is Segizkhan Shokhy, with slopes covered with fossilized seashells the size of the child’s fist and the remnants of lava.
• The Burana Tower ... Some 10km south of Tokmok, the Burana Tower is all that remains of the ancient city of Balasagun, set at the foot of the Shamshy valley. The city was established in the 10th century on the site of an older settlement, and was the birthplace of the philosopher and poet Jusup Balasugyn who wrote an epic poem called Katadgu Bilig, (“The knowledge which brings happiness”), which has been translated into several languages. The tower itself is thought to have been a Minaret and is the site of a museum complex which, in addition to the tower, includes reconstructions of mausoleums found on the site; a mound that is all that remains of the palace/citadel; a collection of balbals, (grave markers used by nomadic Turkic peoples who used to roam Central Asia), and petroglyphs, (paintings on stones) and a small museum.

In some respects it was a limited list – restricted as it was to just the one oblast – the Chui oblast here in Northern Kyrgyzstan. As a result it was missing such sites as:

• Altyn Arashan, Dheti Oguz, Ala Kol Lake, the Semenovka and Grigorievka Gorges, the Enilckek flacier and Merkbazzer Lakes, Peak Pobeda and Khan Tengri, Karakol – teh church, the mosque the museum and animal market – and not forgetting the resorts, beaches and towns on the shores of the Pearl of the Tien Shan itself – Lake Issyk Kul … because they are in the Issyk Kul oblast;
• The walnut forests of Arslan Bob, Lake Sary Chelek, the Besh Aral Nature Reserve and the Petroglyphs of Saimaluu Tash  … because they are in the Djalal Abad oblast;
• The Kan-i-Gut cave, Karavshin and the home of the Aigul flower … because they are in the Batken oblast;
• The Holy Mountain of Suleiman Too, the Uzgen Mausoleums and Minaret, Lenin Peak, Abishir Sai Canyon, Aravan and the Chil Ustin Caves … because they are in the Osh oblast;
• The Manas Gumbez, Besh Tash and Sheker – the home of Chinghiz Aitmatov … because they are in the Talas oblast;
• Kochkor, Son Kul, Torugart, Chatyr Kul and Tash Rabat, (one of my personal favourites), because they are in the Naryn oblast.

Even in Bishkek there were sights missing like the main Ala Too square, the central greenway and the the Historical Museum, the Museum of Fine Arts, the Orthodox Cathedral and the Opera and Ballet Theater …

And that’s only for starters …

The question of what counts as a “Must Do …” or “Must See …” is a matter of individual choice and personal taste … and there is no point in arguing over such things.

What we can say is that Kyrgyzstan is blessed with a wide variety of possibilities – there’s something for just about everyone – and that …

“… in Kyrgyzstan, it is possible to run out of superlatives when trying to describe what you can see and do”.

High in the mountains

The other day I came across some new research … well, it was new to me, although the paper is dated April 2011.

What attracted my attention in the first place was the “teaser”: “Living at a high altitude can protect you from certain diseases“, which was accompanied by a link to a short article with a slightly more worrying headline: “Living at a high altitude can protect you from certain diseases, but increases your risk of suicide!”  The article had another link – this time to paper giving the report on the research.

As it happens, this was just one of a strong of reports that I have come across recently on the subject of Altitude Sickness (a condition triggered in people who experience difficulty in adapting to the reduced levels of oxygen as they ascend higher and higher in the mountains - causing mild sickness, headaches and life-threatening problems affecting the heart, lungs and brain).  There was, for example:

• the report of new research that suggests that Altitude Sickness is actually a combination of two different syndromes which interact in different ways in different people – balancing symptoms like headaches and fatigue and sleep disturbance … some people experience serious headaches but have no problems sleeping whilst others cannot sleep but report splitting headaches … with a whole array of combinations in between;
• the possible development of a test that may help predict the people who may develop Altitude Sickness. By measuring the heart rates and conducting a series of tests – including ultrasound – at different altitudes, researchers think that they may have identified a common factor in the heart’s action in those that go on to develop the condition … which may help in both the diagnosis and selection of the most suitable form of treatment for individual patients  who fall ill;  and …
• how studying people who different people who develop the condition may help in determining show to care for patients in intensive care units … especially those who have low levels of oxygen in their blood.

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Depending upon the sources you read, something like 20-25% of the earth’s surface is classified as mountainous, (in Kyrgyzstan it’s over 90%), and about 20% of the world’s population live in the mountainous regions – but at least one source claims that about half of the world’s population depend on the mountains, “one way or another”, primarily as a source of water resources.

The main issue affecting people living in at altitude – whether as permanent residents or temporarily, (for example, nomads migrating with their flocks, people working at special locations such as the Kumtor Gold Mine, those on military service … or even mountaineers scaling a peak or two), is hypoxia, the lack of oxygen in the air, which can cause a variety of symptoms and even life threatening situations.

Over the years there has been considerable research  into the effects of living and working at high altitudes and the effect it can have on people’s health and bodily functions; adaptations – both long and short term – to the climate and conditions of living in high altitude environments; as well as social and psychological phenomena of living in such surroundings.

The literature on medical and giological aspects of human life in the mountains tends to divide altitude into five different categories or zones:

Low altitude: 500-1500m a.s.l. – where there is basically no difference in the social and climatological factors affecting health when compared to the surrounding plains … and the course of most diseases are described, at least in one account that I have seen, as “ordinary”

Moderate altitude: 1500-2400m a.s.l. – where serious altitude related illnesses among otherwise healthy people is rare, although some people may experience more pronounced symptoms, (especially the elderly), and there may be implications for people’s diet.

High altitude: 2400-4500m a.s.l. – which is where most altitude related problems are observed, even among otherwise healthy people.

Very High Altitude: 4500-5500m a.s.l. – which are normally encountered only by relatively few mountaineers and trekkers.   There will be frequent “base camps” where people might stay for a few days  and it is important to approach these altitudes gradually to allow for acclimatization.

Extreme Altitude: above 5500m a.s.l. – which very few people ever attain.  It is very difficult for the body to adapt to conditions at these altitudes, and there are other problems resulting from the landscape and weather, (such as avalanches, frostbite and  hypothermia), which also play an important role.

Apparently the development of altitude related illnesses are associated largely with the altitudes at which one sleeps rather than highest elevation reached for a short time.

Living and working at high altitude is recognized under Kyrgyz law as having particular aspects which need to be recognized.  People living and working in high altitude regions, for example, are entitled to additional salary supplements, and can retire earlier than their counterparts living in the lowlands.

I know that I sometimes feel the effect and need to take things easy for the first couple of days when I am in Naryn, (altitude 2041m a.s.l.), usually having driven up from Bishkek, (770m a.s.l).      

Here are some notes that we put together a few years ago  in response to an inquiry from a concerned client, on the subject of Altitude Sickness, based on medical advoce that we received at that time:

Altitude Sickness:

Remember that even in Kyrgyzstan you may travel at over 10,000 feet (3000 meters) and at even higher altitudes in some places.

There are inherent risks in traveling at high altitude. High altitude is generally reckoned to be above 2438m (8000 feet) so that includes places like the Ala Archa, the Dolon Pass, Naryn, Son Kul and Tash Rabat. Very High altitude is considered to start at 3658m (12000 feet) and that would include the Torugart Pass. Anything over 18000 feet (5500 m) is considered extreme altitude – but it is unlikely that any of our tours will ever go this high.

We are not doctors and we cannot advise you. We suggest that you should consult your doctor and ask about altitude sickness, particularly if you are elderly or have breathing problems, asthma, etc.

To the best of our knowledge, very few people suffer from altitude sickness while travelling in vehicles and if they do, the best cure is a prompt return to lower altitudes.

There should be little or no problem for most of our clients, (for example: if you are in a vehicle or even while walking gently at 3000 m.) However, even one of our younger and more athletic staff may reported feeling tired after running a short distance at an altitude of over 4000 meters (just why he was “running” at that altitude is a good question … he had wandered off to take a photo for a client and was returning to the vehicle … forgetting exactly where he was … next time, he said, hewill walk!). Also, a 48-year old and quite asthmatic passenger felt a little uncomfortable when travelling with us over the Torugart Pass, but was no more than a little uncomfortable and aware of the height at which he was travelling.

There is no way of telling who may be affected by altitude. There are no simple factors such as age, sex, or physical condition, which can be used as indictors. Most people are able to go to 2500m and feel no affect – whereas others are taken ill very quickly. For people who are accustomed to travelling at altitude, caution is the best advice. Even for those who have been – proper acclimatization is important.

Altitude sickness arises because there is less oxygen in the air – and to get enough oxygen into the bloodstream, the body has to adjust and the rate of breathing increases (even when at rest). The main cause of altitude sickness is going too high, too fast.  Given time to adapt, the body is able to cope with the changes necessary to copy with the changed conditions – this process is known as acclimatization and usually requires between 1 to 3 days at a given altitude. It is important to remember that different people acclimatize at different rates – so it is important to consider the group as a whole – and not to be guided by the first few individuals to acclimatize.

Over 10000 feet (3048 m) – most people will experience some symptoms. The onset of symptoms is normally delayed for about 12-24 hours after arrival at altitude. Symptoms include headache, dizziness, fatigue, shortness of breath, loss of appetite, nausea, disturbed sleep, and a general feeling of malaise. They tend to be more marked at night because the body activity is decreased and more relaxed. It is important that any symptoms to be reported by clients as soon as they become apparent.

Although some medications are available to help prevent altitude sickness – they should only be taken under medical supervision – and the only cure for altitude sickness is to descend. Medication may help to relieve symptoms but they cannot resolve the overall issue.

If possible, travellers should not drive or fly to high altitudes. It is best to start at below 10000 feet, (3048 m) and walk up. It is important not to over-exert yourself – and if possible to remain at the same altitude for about 24 hours. Ideally further ascents should be at the rate of about 1000 feet, (about 300m) between sleeping altitude per day, with a days rest at that altitude, or at least one rest day every third day. It is best NOT to sleep at the maximum height reached that day (although at places like Son Kul this might be difficult to achieve). If symptoms develop, then no further attempt should be made to go any higher – indeed the advice is to descend. Every person in the group should keep hydrated – drink copious amounts of water and avoid alcohol (also tobacco and other depressant drugs – including sleeping pills). The diet should be high in carbohydrates.

If we are informed beforehand that altitude sickness may be an issue for a particular group of individual, then it may be possible to make arrangements to carry oxygen cylinders. These should only be used by people that have received proper training and are in possession of the appropriate certificates. It should be remembered that these are only an aid – and cannot solve the problem. The only cure for altitude sickness is descent.

Remember:

DESCEND, DESCEND, DESCEND!!!

The particular research being highlighted in this new article examined data about suicides in the mainland continental United States.

The authors point out that altitude seems to show some correlation with the incidence and severity of certain medical illnesses … for example, an apparent decreases in mortality among certain types of patients disease receiving dialysis, coronary artery disease, and stroke, but an increase in some psychiatric disorders such as panic attacks.

They wanted to see if there was any sign of correlation between living at altitude and suicide rates …  and discovered that there was indeed – strongly … and, they suggest, in a way that is not explained by differences in demographic factors, income or geographic isolation,.

They also point to possible areas for further research to focus upon – the situation in other societies, individual differences between different levels of altitude … including physical measurements rather than just data analysis … in order to see what the cause is, if any – social, physological or psychological, for this apparent relationship.

They have already considered (and ruled out), for example, the fact that firearms are a more common in such high altitude communities than those at lower altitudes … it seems that the method of commiting suicide, (use of firearms as opposed to other ways of taking one’s own life), does not play a significant role in the statistics.  The correlation is just as marked when other techniques are considered as it is with the use of firearms.

I am sure that a careful reading of the paper, and consideration of the data sets that they present, will raise other questions … for example, they only consider successful suicide attempts – not those that fail – either by chance, (such as the intervention of “third parties”, poor imlpementation of the plan of action … or because the attempt was simply a cri de couer … which seems to me to be a another valuable source of evidence worth exploring.

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They. 

The World Federation of Tour Guide Associations website

To those of working in Tourism, today is an important day … it’s the International Day of the Guide.

It’s not recognized as a Professional Holiday here in Kyrgyzstan, even though Tourism is considered to be a priority area for the Country Development Strategy.  Here the International Day of Tourism, (September 27th every year, as designated by the World Tourism Organization), is the designated professional holiday, the day when everyone involved in the tourism industry “celebrates” and marks their chosen profession.

So why is there an International Day of the Guide?

I suppose that there are several answers to that question … one of which would be that the Guide, “a person who leads travelers or tourists through unknown or unfamiliar locations”, plays a pivotal and vital role in the industry.  They are “front of house”, dealing directly with the clients, the first (and sometimes the only) representative of the host population that a tourist may meet and communicate with.

For the record: The International Day of the the Guide, was an initiative of the World Federation of Tour Guide Associations – a non-profit, non-political organization based in Austria which aims to promote market and ensure that tourist guides are recognized as “professional ambassadors”.

The organization of such a Federation  was first proposed at a convention of of tourist guides held in 1985 and established in 1987.    It now has members in over 70 countries, (including Kyrgyzstan), and their combined membership numbers more than 200,000 individual guides.

Although, technically, it is a federation of associations, in countries where there is no Association, the individual tour guides can also join.  The also unite educational institutions and other bodies which they describe as partners, which have a interest in the work of tour guides.

The published aims of the Federation is:

• establishing contact with tourist guide associations, individuals, tourism training institutes throughout the world and to reinforcing their professional ties
• representing professional tourist guides internationally and to promoting and protecting their interests
• enhancing the image of the profession and promoting the use of area specific local tourist guides in all regions
• promoting a universal code of ethics and skills
• raising, encouraging and establishing the highest standards of professionalism
• developing international training, and improving the quality of guiding through education and training
• facilitating the exchange of information between members

Their Code of Practice is short but is aimed at assuring a high level of professionalism and service offered by guides to their clients.  It requires that members:

• provide a professional service to visitors, professional in care and commitment, and professional in providing an objective understanding of the place visited, free from prejudice or propaganda.
• ensure that as far as possible what is presented as fact is true, and that a clear distinction is made between this truth and stories, legends, traditions, or opinions.
• act fairly and reasonable in all dealings with all those who engage the services of guides and with colleagues working in all aspects of tourism.
• protect the reputation of tourism in our country by making every endeavour to ensure that guided groups treat with respect the environment, wildlife, sights and monuments, and also local customs and sensitivities.
• representatives of the host country to welcome visitors and act in such a way as to bring credit to the country visited and promote it as a tourist destination.

The day is held on February 21st every year, and has been marked annually since the first such day in 1990 when just 15 countries participated.  Events are organized at a local level for tourist guides, including presentations and training courses.  Some member associations have also organized events such as free tours for members of the public on the day.

Well … how would you define an “adventure”?

Adventure tourism is big business these days … it’s evolved from a small niche market into one of the largest sectors of the industry with its specialist magazines, exhibitions and companies.

It has seen rapid growth over the years and seems to be overtaking other forms of tourism in terms of the number of clients and the value of the business. It can, however, be a difficult to know exactly what is meant by the term “adventure tourism”.

For example, a recent feature in a British broadsheet newspaper gave a list of adventure holiday opportunities in Britain this year.  The criterion for inclusion was that suggestions should be a “trips and treks to suit anyone with an adventurous spirit“,  and it included such suggestions as: a hiking trip and also a Photo Safari in the Scottish highlands; Cycling trips in the Peak District and in Northern Ireland;  Surfing and Caving in North Wales; Running in Cumbria and other hiking options … including one along the Shakespeare way – or as the heading put it: Hiking through History – from Stratford to London.

Now , I am not saying that this isn’t an example of adventure tourism … just that the definition of the term is different from that which many people would recognize: “trips and treks to suit anyone with an adventurous spirit“. The word adventure is usually understood as describing an unusual and exciting experience, a bold (and possibly risky – ether perceived or actual) undertaking with an uncertain outcome … and the term Adventure Tourism is usually used to describe travel which includes some physical activity, (such as mountaineering, trekking, horse riding, white water rafting, cycling, … and so on), … often activity which requires specialist skills, experience and possibly equipment.

It’s not just, however, a question of physical activity, … it might well mean some potential element of danger, (either perceived or actual), which arouses a sense of excitement, exhilaration … or even fear … I suppose that’s what helps to make it an adventure.     

Apparently the Adventure Travel Trade Association, (ATTA – a global “community”, based in the US, with 900 or so members), defines Adventure Travel involves two out three elements … cultural exchange, physical undertaking and interaction with nature …  and I suppose they ought to know … as it’s their business … literally.

As an aside: although that was quoted in several articles about the Association, it took quite a bit of searching on their website to verify that this is in fact what they say, (maybe I was just tired or was being particularly inefficient).

I think it’s important, because, as it happens, Adventure Tourism is one of the themes that Kyrgyzstan has identified as a niche that it feels it could, and should, develop and, indeed, we do have lots potential for adventure tourism – trips and treks for anyone with an adventurous spirit.

Cultural exchange is no problem … especially with the homestays and yurt inns operated by members of KCBTA – the Kyrgyz Community Based Tourism Association … the Kyrgyz offer a traditional nomadic hospitality and these offer an excellent opportunity of mixing with the ordinary people but also of experiencing aspects of a centuries old traditional lifestyle.

There is plenty of opportunity for physical activity.  A short while ago, one of my colleagues was asked to give a talk about the tourism possibilities that Kyrgyzstan has to offer … and he asked me if I could prepare a set of maps … showing places where certain activities could be undertaken.  Although it sounds easy, actually, it proved to be quite a difficult task.  Whilst, with some activities like caving and white water rafting it was indeed relatively easy … after all, it depends on the availability of caves or “white water” rivers.  On the other hand, when it came to other activities, like trekking, the problem was that it was a case of “more or less anywhere and everywhere“.

Unfortunately, let’s be honest, there are is also potential risks – such as the possibility of falling off a horse, or slipping on a scree slope and breaking a leg while in the mountains … but with proper preparation, skill and experience these risks can be minimized.

In terms with interacting with nature – most of the country (94%) is mountainous and rugged – and there are plenty of  open spaces where it is possible to feel totally alone and at one with nature – often within easy reach of a road or community.  Indeed, much of Kyrgyz tradition is closely intertwined with nature … as nomads, each family unit would be self sufficient, making virtually everything that the needed … the patterns on their carpets: plants and animals.  Central Asia is the home of many of the plants that have found their way around the world – apples, rhubarb and tulips to mention just a few.  Although a particular specific sighting cannot be guaranteed, the wildlife is diverse.

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In their survey of Adventure Tourism,  the ATTA list a wide variety of activities base on the activities of their members: Archaeological expeditions; Attending local festivals and fairs; Birdwatching; Camping; Canoeing; Caving; Climbing (mountain/rock/ice); Cruises; Cultural activities; Cycling; Ecotourism; Educational programmes; Environmentally sustainable activities; Fishing; “Getting to know the locals”; Heli-skiing; Hiking; Horseback riding; Hunting; Kayaking/sea and whitewater rafting; Kite surfing; Learning a new language; Motorized sports; Orienteering; Paragliding;l Rafting; Research expeditions; Safaris; Sandboarding; Sailing; Scuba diving; Snorkeling; Skiing/Snowboarding; Stand-up paddle boarding; Surfing; Trekking; Walking Tours; Visiting friends and family; Visiting Historical sites; Volunteer tourism.

Some of the items on the list may seem to be a little out of place … but then, so did Hiking the Shakespeare Way, and the activities are further grouped into subcategories: hard adventure, soft adventure and “non-adventure“.

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The interesting thing is that most of these are available in Kyrgyzstan … I don’t think any any company offers them all – and that’s probably right because some are dangerous and require specialist knowledge, skills, experience and equipment, (… we, for example, do not undertake Hunting or mountaineering expeditions – and we may subcontract some of the other activities, such as rafting or caving, to specialists … or we can recommend them to enquirers).

Everything is here … all that’s needed are people those “with an adventurous spirit”

Why Kyrgyzstan? … Because Adventure!

It may not be the best reason in the world .. but it can be hard to argue with

As I mentioned in a previous postcard the Oxford English Dictionary declared selfie as the Word of the Year for 2013, citing its rapid increase in usage as the reason for their choice.  Well, the selection of the guardians of the English language has a competitor … in the choice of the American Dialect Society: because.

Now, Selfie isn’t exactly a new word … apparently it was first coined by an Australian writing on Social Media back in 2002 when describing how he took a photograph of himself when he was a little bit the worse on account of the drink he had consumed … and it seemed to describe the incident well, catching the moment, as they say, and it caught on.  The reason it was given the honour of being named the Word of the Year was that there an explosion in the amount and way that it was used … gaining common acceptance.

Because isn’t a new word either, having been around since … well, forever or so it seems.  According to one dictionary it can be traced back to the Middle English construction bi cause which literally means “by cause” and is used to lead into the reason for something … Like “selfie” it explicitly describes its meaning.  The reason it was selected as the Word of the Year by the Americans was the way that it was being used in a new and innovative ways changing its role in the language from being a mere subordinating conjunction.  (yes … well …).

Tersely worded rationales like “because science”, “because fun” or “because tired” have become not merely accepted … but they can convey so much more.  It can be used ironically – or simply to cut off further discussion … “because science – there … that’s it … there’s nothing more to be said … end of conversation” with an implication of “you must be stupid not to get it”.

To be honest, the story took me by surprise as this new meme has passed me by out here in Kyrgyzstan.  Like “Sit on it” or “Well wicked” back in the eighties … you have to be in situ to get the full feel of the social phenomenon.  On the other hand, it was well explained and it did fit in with something I have mentioned before …

I once overheard a conversation between mother and child – I was tempted to say on the Clapham Omnibus, but I think the reference might be a bit obscure … and there’s already been enough of that in this particular postcard.  Anyway, the conversation went something like this:

• Don’t do that
• Why not?
• Because people won’t like you if you do
• Why not?
• Because it’s not nice?
• Why not?
• Because people don’t like that sort of thing
• Why not?

and so it went on until

• Why not?
• Because I said so!
• Why?
• BECAUSE !!!

Here there ‘s a similar phrase – Potomu shto! – used in a very similar way: ”there … that’s it … there’s nothing more to be said … end of conversation“ with an implication of “you must be stupid not to get it“.

All of this got me thinking … that could be a great slogan Because Kyrgyzstan … for example placed over a photograph of the mountains, a yurt, a snow leopard, skiers, sunbathers on a beach … hey … “Because Kyrgyztan” –  ”there … that’s it … there’s nothing more to be said … end of conversation“.

Actually, the more I though about it, I decided that preferred a slightly different approach: Why Kyrgyzstan … Because …

Why Kyrgyzstan? … Because Mountains

Why Kyrgyzstan? … Because History

Why Kyrgyzstan? … Because The Silk Road

Why Kyrgyzstan? … Because Nomadic Traditions

Why Kyrgyzstan? … Because Traditional Hospitality

Why Kyrgyzstan? … Because Adventure

Why Kyrgyzstan? … Because Skiing

Why Kyrgyzstan … Because … 

I’m sure you get the idea … or, to quote another postcard:

Why Kyrgyzstan? … Because Why Not?

Well, what do you reckon?

Lenin – pointing to the future

A short time ago I saw an article about the attractions of Central Asia and the traveling along the Great Silk Road.  One of the options it highlighted was Soviet Tourism.

I have long felt that here in Kyrgyzstan we don’t make enough of Soviet Heritage when pointing out the attractions of the country  In a way that is understandable … the great attractions of the country are the mountains – with all that they offer for adventure and activities be it mountaineering, trekking, rafting, cycling, horse riding, and so on; as an integral part of the Great Silk Road and the traditional Nomadic Culture of the Kyrgyz.

The seventy years of the Soviet Union, however, has a special draw – especially to people of a certain age from the West who remember the Superpower, and were brought up to think of  them as “Them” … as opposed to “Us“.

As one author recently put it … Kyrgyzstan offers am “historian’s dream of a soviet time capsule”.

 Churchill described Russia as “a riddle wrapped in a mystery inside an enigma” and the same is true of the Superpower that was dominated by Moscow and “closed” to foreigners … at least, most of us.  As opportunities for foreign travel increased, tourists traveled throughout Europe – usually in search of the sun, sand and sea – but occasionally of landscapes, culture and “experience”.

The Soviet Union, however, was a mystery almost as inscrutable as that posed by China and the Orient. Access to the country was strictly controlled and regulated.  The sheer vastness of the country encompassing Europe and Asia, mountains and desert, steppes and tundra … all of it out of reach inviting yet forbidden.

Even those who managed to get visas found that the country presented difficulties.  In Oxford, I once spoke to someone who traveled through the country in the 1970′s – on their way from New Zealand to England to take up a place at University.  His stories were fascinating, like the time he was berated on a metro train in Moscow for not getting up and giving up his seat to a pensioner … and when he replied in English, and it became obvious he was a foreigner, the complete “about face” as everyone apologized for the outburst and refused to allow their “honoured guest” to rise even though he was in a designated seat for the elderly and infirm.  I couldn’t – and still can’t – imagine that happening on the London Underground.

His photographs, (for example, of Samarkand), were even more spectacular.

For some people, of course, there was the attraction of the Promised Land – Lenin’s Socialist Paradise built here on Earth. Then there was the fascination of characters like:

• the founders of the nation who helped to shape so much of the Twentieth Century: Lenin, Trotsky and Stalin;
• the conflicting relationship with and attitude towards Khrushchev … the man who courageously denounced his predecessor, his emotional outbursts hammering the podium at the United Nations with his shoe (even if he didn’t … the image persists), the eyeball to eyeball contest between K and K, (Kennedy and Khrushchev),  over Cuba that almost saw the inauguration of Armageddon; the two great postwar races between the Superpowers – the Arms race and the Space Race;
• the ageing Brezhnev “wheeled out” on occasion; the courage Mikhail Gorbachev – the man “with whom we can do business” – in opening the windows and letting in the fresh air of Glasnost; Boris Yeltsin, the bumbling man who liked a drink and faced down the plotters of the attempted coup, ushering in a new – albeit, (for a time, at least), chaotic era and overseeing the final collapse of the Union.

I remember with great affection my first visit to a former Communist country, and I would like to help experience the same fascination and the sense of encountering history … and entering another world.

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I was a little disappointed when the article concentrated on the theme of the “Legacies of Colonialism and Environmental Disasters” – the Darvaza Gas Crater in the dessert of Turkmenistan and the disappearing Aral Sea.

There is no doubt that these environmental phenomena exist … and we have our own examples here in Kyrgyzstan, for example the radioactive waste dumps around places like Mailiy Suu … but there is so, so much more.

Walking around Bishkek, or almost any sizable community here in Kyrgyzstan the are the obvious monuments of  the former state – effigies of Lenin and striking war memorials – some of them complete with preserved Mig fighters and Tanks.  Here in Bishkek there are even likenesses of the fathers of Communism, Marx and Engels … not forgetting people like Derzhinsky, the founder of the KGB -

Bishkek is full of Soviet architecture – from the early constructions of Interhelpa – the Czech volunteers who answered Lenin’s call to come and help build the Socialist paradise on Earth, to the classical style favoured in the Stalin era, (such as the Opera Theater and Union House), the “characterless” identical “blocks” of the Khrushchev’s Great Leap Forward and the white marble facades of the 1980s drive to create a modern city worthy of being the capital of one of the 15 constituent republics of the USSR, and .

Many of them are decorated with mosaics, murals, paintings and slogans – each expressing a political (and social) message, policy or aspiration of the time.

The museums such as the Historical and Frunze Museums, offer a fascinating glimpse of, not only these seventy years, but also of the into the  hagiography – reveration paid to characters that we in the West had been brought up to see in a completely different light.  The image of former President Reagan tiding an Inter Continental Ballistic Missile on one of the ceilings of the Historical Museum being photographed almost as much as the  massive statues of Lenin addressing the crowds.

Out of town there are also signs.  It is possible to visit the National Parks created in the USSR, (such as Ala Archa just outside Bishkek, Sary Chelek, and Salkyn Tur outside Naryn); some of which were reserved for use by the Party Hierarchy.

Things are changing, of course, and although many monuments are being erected to Kyrgyz characters Lenin and the war memorials still stand are joined by other symbols of the Soviet Union, such as the hammer and sickle.  Kochkor in particular still has the street lamp decorations representing the emphasis and advances of science and technology.  Perhaps the most poignant monument does not date from the Soviet period itself, but is intrinsically associated with it, is the Ata Beyit (Memorial to the Fathers of the Nation), in Chong Tash – where over the course two nights in 1937, some 130-odd of the Kyrgyz elite, (it is uncertain if it was 137 or 138), were eliminated as part of Stalin’s Great Purges.

But it is not all monuments and architecture … the Soviets did much to develop Lake Issyk Kul as a tourist destination with Intourist issuing vouchers (putyovka) to workers to come and spend a fortnight or more in one of the resorts or Sanatoria that line the shores of this Pearl of the Tien Shan.  They may been joined by more recent additions, but they are still there and it is possible to stay and get a feel of what it must have been like.

The ethnic and cultural mix represented in the country is also a result, (at least in part), of the Soviet Union – with many groups of people being brought here either as internal exile, forced migrations or as part of the mass relocation of factories and institutes during the Second World War.  Each group brought with it their own distinctive culture and cuisine – much of which is still evident in the republic and helps to give a real sense and feel of being in a cosmopolitan society.

As I said, there is a lot more to offer and explore in Kyrgyzstan’s Soviet heritage …

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Here’s a starter suggestion, it can be customized to meet specific wishes, flight timetable and so forth but should give some feel of both contemporary Kyrgyzstan and its Soviet past:

Tour in Kyrgyzstan

Tenniel’s illustration of Humpty Dumpty for Alice Through the Looking Glass – making words mean what he wants them to mean

A few years ago I was in a meeting where one speaker stood up to make a point and once having been granted the floor would not release to podium until, basically, the microphone was turned off.  Actually, I felt that the point he was making was a perfectly valid one … that the document being considered was poorly drafted and the loose use of language made it vague, difficult to understand and more importantly, laid it wide open to misinterpretation, misunderstanding and misuse.

Afterwards, we got chatting and he said to me, “Ian, I know I am a pedant … but it’s important!”  I have to admit that I agreed with him … and still do.

In a blog like this, I can probably afford to be a little vague, in order to get across to readers the general idea that I am trying to convey, but in an official document, or a debate on a complex topic then we do need a measure of precision to avoid the Solipsism of Lewis Carroll’s Humpty Dumpty – who used words to mean just what he choose them to mean — neither more nor less.

I have a confession to make: for a long time I was confused about the difference between such terms as trekking, hiking, rambling and walking.  That’s a bit of a handicap for someone working in Tourism in Kyrgyzstan – especially as Kyrgyzstan is known as a “Trekkers’ Paradise”.

Like a lot of other people, I found myself using them almost interchangeably as synonym – but they are not really the same thing – there are subtle distinctions.

Humpty Dumpty would have enjoyed the situation … when Alice asks ’whether you can make words mean so many different things’, he responds ‘The question is which is to be master — that’s all.’

Apparently he has a point … in English many words have many meanings … and many words distinguish the nuances of fine distinctions between different situations.  This is just one example of such differentiation.

Trek, Hike, Ramble, Stroll, Wander, Walk …

Generally, the word walk simply means to travel on foot, (at a pace slower than a run –  which, in turn, is usually taken to mean that at least one foot remains on the ground at all times), for either pleasure or exercise.  It is possible, for example, to take a stroll, (a walk for pleasure – perhaps “aimless”), through a park around the city center.

The idea of aimlessly wandering is often called a ramble.  In Britain, however, it can have a slightly different meaning; to go “on a ramble” can mean to go walking in the countryside, usually along a network of Public Walkways that cross Privately owned land.

This is thanks, at least in part, to an organization called simply the Ramblers’ Association.  Their aim is It is a charity whose goal is “to protect the ability of people to enjoy the sense of freedom and benefits that come from being outdoors on foot”, As well as organizing activities such as walks along particular routes, they publish guides and put up directional signs and also educative materials about how to walk in the countryside responsibly – respecting and protecting wildlife, the landscape and the people who earn their livelihoods from the land.  They also organize lobbying campaigns both to protect existing walkways and to expand the opportunities by opening more routes.

Hiking is an outdoor activity which consists of walking in natural environments.  It usually involves an extended walk over a long distance, although a day hike refers to one that can be completed in a single day.  The practice of undertaking a longer hike that take several days, involving camping are often referred to as backpacking, (a reference to the “back packs” borne to carry the goods necessary for the journey).   

For the record: there are other terms.  In the United Kingdom, for example, walking in mountainous areas is sometimes called hillwalking, (or Fellwalking in Northern England).  In New Zealand the phrase tramping is common especially for hikes in mountainous regions which take several days.  Bushwhacking specifically refers to difficult walking through dense forest, undergrowth, or bushes, where forward progress requires pushing vegetation aside.

A trek, on the other hand, implies a slow or arduous journey, (usually on foot – although the word traces its origins to South Africa where it referred to journeys using ox wagons, such as that of the Boers in 1830s), especially through mountainous regions.

The phrase is also used to refer to hikes which take several days in the mountainous regions of India, Pakistan, Nepal, North America, South America, Iran and in the highlands of East Africa, or hiking along a long distance trail such as the Appalachian Trail in the States or the Pennine Way in England.

Although trekking tours are available, (we offer them, for example), the concept of “backpacking” often implies travelling independently rather than in a group or on an organised tour.

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These days I tend to use the term walk to refer to a perambulation (now, there’s another synonym) within the city – such as a walking tour – or a short walk in the country lasting, say, only up to a few hours – for example, to take a walk to the waterfall; a hike for a walk in the mountains with a particular destination in mind that lasts up to a day – such as to hike over a pass or in a particular valley; and trek for longer, more difficult  journeys that may take several days such as from Altyn Arashan to Djety Oguz.

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These notes are based on ones that were draw up a few years ago in response to an inquiry from a prospective client who was weighing up the advantages of organized as opposed to independent travel and raise specific issues which may be particularly relevant to the “backpacker” – but may also be of interest to other travelers.

Your first night:

• Phone home! Tell your family that you have arrived safely.
• Remember that you are at your most vulnerable when you arrive, so it is a good idea to book accommodation in advance, before you go, if at all possible.  (If you don’t like where you are staying, you can always go elsewhere the next day.)
• If you are going to arrive late, be aware that accommodation may be difficult to find at night.
• If you decide to go out after checking in at your hotel or guesthouse, make sure you know how to get back! Take your guidebook with you. Some hotels and guesthouses can give you cards that show you how to get back.

Hitchhiking:

• Be very cautious about hitchhiking.
• Try not to hitchhike at night.
• It is best to travel in pairs and
• Be aware that drivers may expect payment.

Souvenirs:

• If in doubt, don’t buy wildlife souvenirs.Make sure any wildlife souvenirs or products can be legally taken out of the country and legally imported into your home country when you return. Don’t be fooled by statements like ‘Believe me, it’s OK’. Some wildlife souvenirs are banned from international trade, many more require special permits, (and that includes the countries you will travel through in transit). Customs throughout the world confiscate illegal souvenirs and, when you get home, you could face a criminal prosecution and unlimited fines.

Work:

• Do not work illegally.
• If you have a “tourist visa” you are NOT allowed to work whilst you are in Kyrgyzstan.  You can be fined, imprisoned and/or deported if you do.  You may also be prevented from entering the country again in the future.
• In the event that you do find work in Kyrgyzstan,
  • make sure that you (and your prospective employer) comply with all the relevant employment regulation and
  • remember that you will have to pay tax.

Visa:

• Fortunately, many visitors – but not all – benefit from the decision in 2012 to introduce a Visa Free Regime, and so they can visit the country for up to 60 days without having to get one.  For those that do have to have a visa, then it will have dates for which it is valid.  In either case do not overstay - beyond the limit allowed under the Visa Free Regime or on the visa.  You can extend your visa in most cases, but if you don’t … then you can be fined,  imprisoned and/or deported.

Finally,

Here is some advice from a seasoned “backpacker”:

• Have fun, after all, it’s why you’re backpacking in the first place.
  • Take your time
  • Remember to allow yourself plenty of leisure time en route so that you can relax and enjoy yourself.
  • Pick your companions wisely.
  • Don’t waste too much time fretting over “small stuff”
• Be prepared.
  • Know your equipment.
  • Know your own abilities.
  • Know where you’re going  - Do your homework … Read up about where you are going and get tips from other travelers.
• Carry good food.
  • including an antacid (!)

Thinking of where to go …?

Christmas is over … at least, in the West … and Boxing Day traditionally marks the opening of “Holiday advertising season” as people’s minds turn to the question of where to go for their next major break.     

Going away on holiday is supposed to be a pleasurable experience … and in most cases it is exactly that … however … travel can itself be quite tiring and stressful.  So, let’s try to take most of the stress out of your journey with a little preparation.  

As the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office says: “Most travelers to Kyrgyzstan encounter no problems” – but the Canadian Ministry of Foreign Affairs advises travelers to “Expect the Unexpected“.  Occasionally things do happen to upset  plans, (for example, the plane is delayed and you are stranded in the airport for several hours along with huge numbers of other travelers, and there never seems to be enough seating … you loose your passport, ticket, bag or camera … you get a stomach upset, stung or bitten; visa rules change whilst you are en route – or the embassy closes just at the point when you need to apply for a visa … and so on). 

That doesn’t mean to say that they will lead a disaster.

In fact, part of our job as a tour company is to do exactly that: to expect the unexpected; to expect anticipate the unpredictable; to consider what can go wrong and to plan for the unforeseen.

As such “We don’t like surprises” – a surprise means that something has occurred that wasn’t foreseen and usually means a problem  … basically there is no such thing as a “nice surprise” (!).

A certain amount of forethought can help you, (and us), to be prepared and ready to meet most, (if not all, circumstances and can at least help you to feel more confident if and when something does occur which you hadn’t foreseen and hadn’t planned for.

One piece of general advice – if in doubt, err on the side of caution.

For the record: What follows is derived from a number of sources … the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office, the State Department, Foreign Ministries of Australia and Canada, from Guide books … and from “bitter experience”.  Most of it is common sense, and may well be unnecessary … but “forewarned is forearmed”.

Before you leave home …

Study your destination : learn a little about where you are going and plan your visit.  Learn about the local laws, customs and climate.  Learn a few useful phrases in a local language.  Your itinerary may well change – but try to be clear that you know and understand the main points.  Get a good guidebook, and maybe a phrase book.

In your planning, think of:

Itinerary : If you decide to book a tour, rather than travel independently, then consider learning a little bit about where you are going – For example, think about:

• History - in Kyrgyzstan,for example, history did not start with the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991 – nor with the arrival of the Russians at the end of the nineteenth century – it is littered with various peoples who wandered back and forth across the landscape and it might be helpful if you knew a little about them if you are going to visit places like Burana, Talas, Uzgen.
• Geography –  For example: What altitudes are you going to staying at?, What distances will you travel every day – consider what the roads will be like and how long will it take?
• Program – For example, if the itinerary calls for museum visits and you are not a “museums type person” than consider what you are going to do. How much time will be spent walking in the mountains, in towns?, etc. – consider your physical condition … will you be able to cope?

Accommodation – there are various types of accommodation – available – try to find out what sort you will be using.

Food – especially if you have particular dietary requirements – look at the itinerary and consider if you want to book Full Board, Half Board, Bed and Breakfast, Self Catering (… it may be difficult in some parts of Kyrgyzstan to provide for all variations) … consider what you need to bring with you or may need to buy locally.

Money -  How much are you going to need … and where can change foreign currency or you get extra en route?.

Clothes and Equipment – especially if you are biking/hiking/camping.  Think of temperatures – it can be cold in the mountains – especially at night – even in the height of summer.

Health, Medicines etc. – make sure you have enough – if you have a serious medical condition, will you be travelling far from suitable facilities.

“When in Rome …” – Remember that everything will not be “just like it is at home” – there will be similarities – but there will also be differences. 

Formalities : Ensure that you have a valid passport and visa … Check the passport’s validity dates … It is best to get visas before you travel but if you are planning to get them en-route make sure that you know what the requirements are.  Ask the appropriate embassies for the latest information. Remember that there may be special conditions, which apply to those people who have dual nationality.

Advice : Find out what travel advice is issued by your own Ministry of Foreign Affairs for the regions you are going to visit.

Embassy/Consul : It would be a good idea to make sure you have contact details for your nearest embassy/consul.  Be aware of what a consul can … and cannot … do for you.

Tickets : Round tickets are your best insurance for making sure that you get back home safe and sound – Take care of your tickets, and keep a (separate) note of reference numbers and contact details so that you can contact the airline if you lose them or your plans change.

Insurance : take out comprehensive insurance to cover the possible loss of possessions and illness/injury whilst abroad – Health insurance for tourists is compulsory in Kyrgyzstan.  Like many countries, Kyrgyzstan does not have state funded health services and medical costs can be high.  Get adequate insurance cover for the whole duration of your trip; for any activities you may undertake; to cover the whole period of and all regions on your trip.  Be honest with the insurance company about medical conditions etc.  Check you have details, arrangements and contacts for an emergency; if it covers delays, cancellation, curtailment, liability, loss of possessions; the conditions and exclusions (for example: most do not cover drink or drug related incidents and what are the limits of cover).  If you are travelling as a group or family – make sure everyone is included in the policy.  Take a copy of the policy and emergency contact details with you.  (Please see also the separate section in the “About Us” section.)  Basically if you can’t afford the insurance – then you can’t afford to travel.

Health : Check vaccination requirements and other health issues.  There are no mandatory vaccinations required for Kyrgyzstan … but check with your GP or Travel Clinic for the most up-to-date information.

Medicines/glasses/prescriptions: make sure you have enough for your stay – carry some spare supplies if necessary and think about what documents (doctor’s letters, prescriptions) you may need.  Carry them in your hand luggage.  If in doubt – check that the medicines are legal in the country you are visiting and keep them in their original packaging.  In Kyrgyzstan you can bring medicines for your own use – adequate for the purpose and length of stay – but not so much that it might appear that you carrying them for someone else – or for sale.  If you have a copy of the prescription, that might be helpful.  If you wear a bracelet/medallion etc. indicating particular health problems that require special emergency treatment see about the possibility of translations.  Pregnant women should check their insurance arrangements; if the airline has special conditions; with their doctor before departure.

Travel Sickness: (Motion Sickness) – often belittled by those who have never suffered it, whilst dreaded by those who regularly suffer from it.  (Many journeys in Kyrgyzstan cover long distances and the roads are not always very good – so motion sickness can be a real issue for people visiting Kyrgyzstan.)

Baggage: Try to travel light and remember so that if you have to, you can move quickly and have a free hand.  You will also be less likely to put it down and leave it unattended.  The webpage: www.oratory.com/onebag gives one person’s guide to “How to travel light”.  The list of what to take runs to 19 pages when printed out – but explains the rationale behind the suggestions.  There is a one page (pdf) version available to download.  

Remember to pack :

• suitable clothes – think of local customs/attitudes as well as climate;
• Medicines etc. : make sure you have enough for your stay – carry some spare supplies if necessary and think about what documents (doctor’s letters, prescriptions) you may need;
• adapter plugs for any electrical goods you plan to take with you, shavers, battery charges, …;

Remember – If the airline loses your baggage – you need to think about what you will need to do in this case.  It might be wise to have a change of clothing (at least some underwear) in your hand baggage.  The Airline may offer compensation, and are supposed to deliver your baggage to you – so have a spare copy of your itinerary ready to hand to the company representative (with addresses of hotels etc.)

Label your luggage – both inside and out – use labels that can be covered – so that they cannot be easily read by a casual passer-by.  Use luggage that can be locked.

Remember – If the airline loses your baggage – you need to think about what you will need to do in this case.  The Airline may offer compensation, and are supposed to deliver your baggage to you – so have a spare copy of your itinerary ready to hand to the company representative (with addresses of hotels etc.)

Driving : If you plan to drive overseas – check what documents you need, (e.g. International Drivers’ License) and familiarize yourself with the “rules of the road” for your host country.  If you are taking your own vehicle – check hat documents you will need (e.g. registration, customs, insurance).  Make sure all your documents are up-to-date – check the expiry dates.  Take your keys with you when you leave it – even when you go to pay for petrol.  Take a spare set of keys, a first aid kit, a fire extinguisher, some spare bulbs and a warning triangle.

Itinerary : make sure that someone at home has a copy of your itinerary in case they need to contact you in an emergency – and keep them informed if your plans change.  If you are on a tour then this should include, where known, a lit of accommodation contact details, but at the very least it should include contact details for the company with which you are travelling   They should also have copies of all your important travel documents  – see below.

Documents:

• Make copies of your passport, visas etc. and have copies of other important documents (such as insurance policy) and carry some spare passport photos.
• Make a note of credit card numbers, travellers’ cheque numbers (cross them off as you cash them) – and leave a copy with someone at home.
• Remember to fill in the “next of kin” section in your passport.
• If possible take a second form of identity (preferably with a photograph) as well as your passport.
• Carry a list of contact numbers.
• Keep the copies and originals separate.
• Also, make copies of your itinerary – complete with contact details, (addresses of hotels, etc.).  Leave one at home so that people (family and friends) know how to contact you in an emergency – and carry a spare copy to hand to the airline representative in the event that your baggage is lost en route.

Remember that if you lose your passport it can lead to delays as it may take time to issue a replacement.  Not every country has an embassy in Kyrgyzstan – and not every local embassy can issue replacement passports.  Emergency Travel Documents issued by an embassy may be restricted to travel back to your home country.  Losses and Thefts have to be reported to the police – and you need to get a “Spravka” (Certificate) to the effect that you have reported the loss, and send this to your nearest embassy – or passport issuing authority – along with your application for a new passport.

Money : Give plenty of thought to money.  Try not to carry more than you need for your immediate needs – but make sure you have enough in one form or another – if you need to get extra, can you? – think about how you might arrange a money transfer (e.g. by Western Union – they may need passwords).  Try not to carry all your money in one form – use cash, travelers’ cheques, and credit cards – but remember that Credit cards are not widely accepted in Kyrgyzstan    Get your money, traveler’s cheques, credit cards etc.  Don’t take all your credit cards – leave some safe at home.  If possible get some local currency before you travel – if not take some small notes (US Dollars are usual in Kyrgyzstan) to change and pay for taxis, tips etc.

Mobile telephones : if you are going to take a mobile telephone with you – make the arrangements for roaming in plenty of time.  Make sure you know what the charging arrangements are.  Check you know what you have to dial to use international roaming and pre-program your phone if possible.  Tell someone how to call you.  Make sure you have a suitable adapter for recharging batteries.  Make a note of the serial number and other details and the contact details of your operator.  You may need to register your phone when you enter certain countries – such as the Russian Federation.   In Kyrgyzstan the availability of mobile phone services does not cover the whole of the country – contact your service provider for details of coverage.

Will : it may be seem morbid … but, just in case, write or update your will – and leave it with family/friends at home …

Special needs : do you need a wheelchair?, special diet; disabled access to hotel rooms;  … have you told people?

Souvenirs : Check what is likely to be available and (more importantly)  what you can bring back with you.

Home : arrange for someone to look after pets, plants, mail.  Cancel the newspapers, milk etc. if you have them delivered.  Make sure you turn off the gas electricity etc.  Think about asking a neighbour to keep an eye on your home – think about informing the police that your home will be empty.

A few days before you leave : confirm arrangements with your agent – and check all your travel documents.  Pack and label your luggage.

To be honest … originally, when I sat down to write this postcard, I thought it would just be a short entry with a few words of “fatherly advice”, but as I got more and more involved.  It began, (like Topsy in Uncle Tom’s Cabin) to just grow … and grow … and eventually it became what seems to be quite an imposing list – like preparing for a military campaign rather than a relaxing holiday.

I wondered about editing the list and excising some of the items but, apart from wanting to make it as comprehensive as possible, (which means that many items won’t apply to everyone such as considering the need to request a wheelchair, or considering the necessary documentation if you are not going to be driving …and so on), I decided to it was best to leave everything in.

As it happens, these points are valid for any holiday or journey … not just one to Kyrgyzstan!