Postcard from Bishkek

The Isle of Wight is a large island just off the southern coast of England.  It’s actually the largest island in England, and lies between just two and five miles across a stretch of water known as the Solent from the “mainland”.  This has meant that it has been able to hold out as a little different from its “Big Brother”.

Conquered for the Romans by Vespasian, who went on to become  Emperor, it became a separate kingdom after they withdrew, and was the last part of the country, (England, that is), to convert to Christianity, back in the seventh century.  For a short period in the fifteenth century it was even an independent kingdom.  It is now a county of England but whereas other counties have Lord Lieutenants, the Island has its own Governor as the representative of the crown.

It has long been popular with tourists, (especially since Queen Victoria’s retreat to her house at Osbourne after her be;loved Albert’s death), with their own version of the Seven Wonders: “Needles you cannot thread”, “Ryde where you walk”, “Cowes you cannot Milk”, “Newport you cannot bottle” – which, incidentally is in the center of of the island and not on the coast, “Freshwater you cannot drink”, “Newtown which is very old” and “Lake where you walk without wetting your feet”.

Tourism plays an important part in the local economy and they probably welcome visitors from across the other strecth of water, to their South … the English Channel – or should I say La Manche.  It wasn’t always the case, however, as on 21st July, back in 1545, the Island was invaded by a force of French soldiers.   The island wasn’t particularly well defended but the invaders were beaten back by a much smaller force of local militia to beat off the invaders.  The incident is not well known, apart from a memorial plaque at Seaview, just to the east of the town of Ryde, it is probably best known for the that fact that it cost Henry VIII his new flagship, the Mary Rose, which sank in the Solent.

These days, an invasion of holidaymakers is welcomed both on the Isle of Wight and in Kyrgyzstan.

We are obviously hoping for a lot more tourists when the new visa-free regime is finally implemented … The law granting this status to an extra forty four countries was eventually passed by the parliament and has been passed to the President for signing.   The deadline for him to do so apparently runs out next week, but I am not sure what happens if he fails to do so for any reason … and there might be a bit of a problem because he’s off holiday himself at the moment.  However, that hasn’t stopped him from undertaking other official duties so, hopefully, we’ll successfully jump this final hurdle.

As an aside … the omission in the list continue to create problems … the Iranian ambassador, for example, has pointedly expressed his surprise that Iran wasn’t on the list of favoured countries – and Iran is looking to make considerable investments in the country in the near future.  Then, this week, one news report on the topic caused me a minor headache because it accidentally missed  Australia off the list of countries.  In fact, in the Russian version Australia was the first country in the list , but when the press release got translated into English, somehow it got omitted and I had to field enquiries as to what was going on.

On a slightly different issue, it was announced this week that the Swiss Federation are going to open an embassy here in Bishkek.  The Swiss actually have a very good record when it comes to dealing with Kyrgyzstan – with several examples of successful projects they have funded and they are also fairly important trading partners for Kyrgyzstan. Now that they have decided to follow the British example of opening an embassy here,  I hope that they are going to improve on the Brits by having a proper consular service … although the President apparently bent the ear of the newly appointed British ambassador on the subject, I suspect that the locals have given up complaining that they still have to go to Alamty in order to apply for a visa … at least they have probably given up making official complains … they never seem to tire of moaning about it to a British ex-pat if they happen to corner one … and, yes … that is the voice of experience speaking.

Another development which we are hoping will help increase the number of tourists visiting Kyrgyzstan is the adoption of an Open Skies policy, removing restrictions on airlines operating flights into the country.  The government are not only interested in this because of the stimulus it might add to the development of tourism, but also because they see the possibility of Kyrgyzstan becoming a transit hub in the “Heart of Asia”.  As it happens, this year has already seen an increase in 14 new routes being added to the country’s timetable, such as much vaunted Istanbul-Bishkek-Ulan Bator flight operated by Turkish Airlines.  Then, came the (devastating) news that British Airways, (who have just taken over bmi – British Midland International), have decided to rationalise their timetable and are dropping six destinations  - including Bishkek.  One report I have seen suggests that this is due to poor passenger numbers, but another said it was in order to optimize their available “slots” at Heathrow.

Of course, not all tourists fly into the country – something we used to have to constantly remind officials whose stock answer to any question about visas was that it is possible to receive a visa on arrival, (at Manas airport, that is … but not if you happen to fly into Osh, Tamchi or Karakol “international aiports”).  A lot of people cross the land border with our neighouring countries at one of the half dozen border posts that are open to citizens of “third countries”, (that is countries other than those on either side of the border at that particular point).  We’ve been trying to get the number of these crossing points increased and improve the facilities at them on order to make life easier for tourists.  It was announced during the week that we have asked Uzbekistan to open another post near to the market town of Kara Suu – but that would, once again, be for just “local traffic”.  As it happens, the border was closed for even local traffic for a while during the week, following an incident at a flashpoint on the border, which led to at least one death and several injuries.  Although tourists from “third countries” were allowed to cross the border, “locals” were still subject to restrictions right up until the weekend.  It is not clear how the incident erupted, but the two sides tell quite different stories – each, of course, laying the blame fairly and squarely on the shoulders of the other side.

Once they get here, of course, tourists have to have somewhere to stay and the hospitality industry has also furnished a couple of news stories his week.

The first concerned one of Bishkek’s main hotels; originally built by a Turkish company which took it over when the Kyrgyz side found itself in difficulty repaying the credit it had taken out for the project.  Then, following the 2005 revolution, the Kyrgyz investors took it over again arguing that they had been artificially forced into bankruptcy.  The Turks have taken the dispute over ownership to international arbitration and the hotel has been placed “under arrest” whilst the case is being considered.

The second related to the new plan of the government to “persuade” hotels and resorts around Lake Issyk Kul to enter into Tax Contracts.  The idea is that the owners sign an agreement that they will pay a certain sum of tax, based on the number of beds and other facilities that they have, and then they will basically be left alone to work … In theory, both sides should like the system because it’s both predictable whilst being easy and simple to administer.  The big disadvantage, of course, is that if occupancy takes a plummeting dive, you still have a tax commitment to fulfil.  It doesn’t look as if that is going to happen this year, there are all sorts of stories circulating about how it is difficult to find accommodation and people are even posting tweets asking if anyone knows of any places.

 

One of the problems faced by tourists which is likely to add to stress levels, is an encounter with the authorities.  In theory, the only officials a tourist should meet, (unless something goes wrong), is at the border on the way in and out of the country. Unfortunately, it doesn’t always work out that way.  Every now and again you come across stories of tourists who fall foul of some rogue policeman in uniform … but every summer there seems to a flood of complaints from Kazakhs who have driven to the resorts on Issyk Kul in their own vehicles concerning the GAI, (the traffic police).  Now, we actually need traffic police, not just to direct traffic or when there has been an accident, but to help deter and prevent things like DUI (driving under the influence) and speeding.  The problem is that they are often perceived as “sneaky”,  hiding behind trees with radar guns, (which may – or may not – work), and jumping out to flag down passing vehicles.  As they can impose “on the spot fines”, or worse, they are far from being the most popular public servants in the country.

Well, the Prime Minister, no less, has said that he wants to see the GAI banished from the streets of the capital before the end of the year – to be replaced by video surveillance cameras.  There is a fairly extensive programme underway at the moment – so, although he won’t succeed in getting them off the streets completely, it may be that they become a less frequent sight … so the number of I-Spy points for spotting one may have to be increased.

But I think the best GAI story this week came from a Western journalist who tweeted that his taxi driver was stopped by a couple of officers who tried to put the pressure on and extract a bribe.  What they didn’t know when they started was that he was a colonel earning a little extra dosh … and a flash of his ID card brought the encounter to a swift and unsuccessful conclusion.

 

It is not only tourists who visit foreign countries … foreign investors are also welcome visitors, and we would like to see a lot more of them.  There might well be some reluctance amongst some foreign investors when they see what troubles have bedevilled some of those who are already here – and, of course, I am thinking in particular of enterprises like the Kumtor Gold Mine.  There has been some good news on that front, (at least, I take it to be good news), in that the Minister of the Economy and Anti Monopoly Policy has said that nationalization is not on the cards after all.  There might be a wide variety of issues which are currently being examined, such as the company’s ecological records, financial dealings, tax payments and so forth), but, he said, they will all be handled within the existing legal framework.

Some people do want to set up business here in Kyrgyzstan, and the latest prospect is none other than the internet giant, Google, who are looking to establish Data Centres here.  It seems there are lots of advantages that are attractive; the availability of dedicated and qualified staff, cheap electricity, and a lack of institutionalised censorship.  I have commented before about the extent of mobile phone usage – at 96% of the population – but I wonder if Google are aware of the latest survey which suggests that less than 3% use the internet.

Another new venture was announced this week – the government are setting up a special company to cover the country’s reinsurance market.  At the moment, the republic’s insurance firms spread their risk exposure by taking out reinsurance policies with companies based in places as diverse as Moscow, New Delhi and London, (for example – at Lloyds).  It is hoped that this new venture will go some way towards meeting the needs of the country whilst helping to keep some of the capital from flowing out of the country.

At the moment, the insurance industry here in the country is fairly limited in scope.  Most insurance is voluntary and although there have been attempts to introduce some forms of compulsory insurance, (including motor insurance and employers’ liability),  with the necessary laws having been enacted and therefore, technically, on the statute book …  they don’t work.  In fact, until recently, the only form of compulsory insurance was that providing by the state for serving members of the military – and, I suppose, what we in Britain call “National Insurance” – that is, social security.  It was, therefore, interesting to see that the Ministry of Finance has suggested “insuring” over 400,000 of the country’s poorest families for 2000 som, in order to help them obtain access to medical and pharmaceutical care.

There is a lot said about the level of medical care available in the country – and I suppose it is true that facilities often seem to be pretty poor when compared to those in the West, and it is true that last week saw the first ever Kidney transplant in the country, (something which in the West may be routine), but the staff seem to be knowledgeable, well trained and dedicated.  (They’ would have to be pretty dedicated given the level of their salaries!).  Recently, however, I was talking with a newly qualified doctor and he showed me his diploma which listed the topics he had covered.  I had to laugh when I saw the entry The History of Kyrgyzstan … and made a cynical comment about how useful that would be in diagnosing some patients chronic illness.  On the other hand, I see that in neighbouring Tajikistan, it was asserted that a doctor who didn’t know the country’s national anthem couldn’t be relied upon to make an accurate diagnosis.  Knowing how seriously traditional, herbal and holistic medicine is taken here, I am beginning to wonder ifg, perhaps, they know something that I don’t.

 

In the past we have seen all sorts of stories about how Kyrgyzstan owes it’s neighbours – especially for Gas.  It seems to me that Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan are constantly threatening to cut off supplies unless we cough up to clear the debt.  So, it came as a bit of a surprise when it was revealed this week that Uzbekistan owes us some thirteen million dollars for electricity.

 

Next week the Olympics get under way in London.  There’ll be quite an invasion of tourists which I presume will be welcomed by all – except, perhaps the Londoners, commuters and so on, whose lives may be turned upside down for two weeks.  One of those “tourists” will be Prime Minister Omurbek Babanov who is going for the opening session.  There will also be an official delegation of thirty odd competitors and officials – there’s just 14 actual competitors.  As it happens, one of them very nearly didn’t make it … Women’s wrestler, Aysuluu Tynybekova, had to get court permission to leave the country as she was involved in a fracas a week ago and the affair is still under investigation.   Another one, Ilya Ignatiev, will not be competing in London, but be travelling down to Weymouth for the sailing – some 40 miles West of the Isle of Wight.  Anyway, let’s hope that they receive a friendlier reception and are a bit more successful than the French were, back in 1545.

 .

 .
_______________________________________

Postcard from Bishkek: the weekly postcard that I send out as an email also gets posted on the website ianbek.kg each week – and there are other postcards which don’t get sent out.  This week, for example, there has been a particularly French flavour to the postcards, with one describing a Kyrgyz Joan of Arc, and another looking at one of the influential characters of the French Revolution :

• Marmots - On St. Swithun’s day, I take a look at the Kyrgyz version of a “groundhog” – the Marmot;
• Team KG - A breakdown of the small team of Kyrgyz sportsmen travelling to London to represent their country in the 2012 London Olympics;
• Salary Stats - a quick look at the influence of “outliers” and their effect on statistics based on published figures of average salaries in different parts of the country;
• Cheque this out - Why do they need to know that? – about another of the little details we have to write on a cheques here in Kyrgyzstan;
• Adventure travel talk - This weeks Travel Talk on Twitter was about Adventure Travel – but I think they missed the point;
• Skin art : To tat, or not to tat?, that was the question … some thoughts about mohican haircuts and tattoos seen on the streets of Bishkek;

It is now possible to follow me on Facebook, (where I have specific pages for Celestial Mountains and ianbek … and also links.kg and Kyrgyz Diary), and on twitter, (@Bishkekpostcard and @celestialMTC ).

Tags: Expat, Life_in_Kyrgyzstan, Weekly_Postcards