Postcard from Bishkek

One of things I like about Kyrgyzstan is the ever present optimism.  A few weeks ago I attended the First Annual Travel Forum, and I teased the organizers about how anyone could advertise a forthcoming event as being the first of an annual event when not one had been held.  It might be hoped, planned even, to become an annual event, but it seemed a little ambitious to claim it as one before even the initial event had happened.

Today sees what is being billed as the country’s First International Marathon.  At least it is not claiming to be an annual, not yet at any rate, but I suspect that if it proves to be a success then we will see further events planned in the future.

The Marathon is a modern race, although it based on the  ancient legend of Pheidippides, a Greek messenger who had just taken part in the Battle of Marathon, (in 490BC), where the army of Athens had defeated that of Persia, and was dispatched with news of the victory.   According to the legend, he  ran the entire distance without stopping and burst into the assembly, exclaiming “nikomen“, (“We have won”), before collapsing and dying.  The distance between the site of the battle and the city of Athens was 40 km, (or 25 miles), and when the first of the modern Olympic Games was held in Athens in 1896, it was decided to hold a race to commemorate this legendary run.

Pheidippides, if legend is to be believed, found the race rather exacting – which shouldn’t be that surprising, bearing in mind he had just participated in a battle.  Dorando Pietri  experienced trouble completing the distance in the famous 1908 London Olympics, in what became known as the “race of the century”.  He collapsed several times as he ran around the racetrack towards the finishing line, only to be propelled across by officials as the runner in second place, Johnny Haynes, closed the gap between them.  Pietri was disqualified for the assistance that he had received, but he had inspired runners around the world and started a “marathon madness” as Marathon races began to be established in various cities around the world.

They have now become popular events in many cities around the world, (over 500 of them), attracting large numbers of competitors, many of them “laymen” – not serious athletes – who take up the challenge of trying to complete the distance rather than necessarily competing to win.  These events give the opportunity to millions of people to express themselves, raise money for charity, as well as improve their physical qualities and health.

There is even an Association of International Marathons and Distance Races which liaises and coordinates many races – with published guidelines for holding such events.  Apparently they have an event in Finland today, but haven’t registered the one on the shores of Lake Issyk Kul.  Maybe, if this does become and annual event, that is something that will be arranged for future events.

This particular event has been organized by the “Youth Public Fund Japan-Kyrgyz Birimdigi“, and will be based on the village of  Bulan-Sogottu on the shores of Lake Issyk Kul.  In addition to the regular marathon distance, (42km 195 meters), there are additional races over lesser distances, (not half marathons but over 10 km and 5 km).   Apparently the Japanese Ambassador has entered and will be taking part and he has also attracted quite a few of his countrymen to take part – it seems there are going to be something like 50 Japanese competitors participating.  I am impressed!

I actually thought of taking the kids and going up to Issyk Kul for the event … No, not to take part, (I’ll leave that to the Japanese Ambassador), in order to offer moral support and to actually get out of the office.  As it happens, yesterday was Posledniy Zvonock.  May 25th is the last day lessons in the school year … the school bell rings for the last time in the school year, hence the name which means “last bell”.  Although there are no more lessons and the summer holidays technically start, (and last over three months(!) – until September 1st), there are still exams to be sat.  Two of the kids, Svetlana and Andrei, have exams today, (even if it is a Saturday), so we decided to hang around.

I suppose that one of the advantages of running around Lake Issyk Kul is that, although there may be some undulations as the road winds its way around the shore line, there shouldn’t be too many serious inclines to have to navigate like their would be on the Bishkek-Naryn or Bishkek-Osh roads.  The Naryn road is part of the main route across to China and so is undergoing reconstruction.   Although there are some pretty good stretches, at the moment it is still pretty rough in some parts.  The main Bishkek-Osh highway was renovated in the late 1990′s, so the surface is still quite good – although it is showing distinct signs of wear and tear.  The Minister of Transport has said that the asphalt may need major repairs after just six years,  so it is already overdue for an overhaul.  Although I am no expert, that does seem rather soon to me, but I have to admit that there are potholes and uneven surfaces developing so maybe he has a point.

The Chinese Ambassador has also been making comments about the poor state of the country’s roads and the need for projects to help bring the infrastructure up to international standards.  Of course, this is not all that surprising when we remember how important the Kyrgyz road network is to China –  both as a channel for the export and transit of Chinese goods and also when we consider that it’s the Chinese who are doing most of the road works in the country at the moment – and that’s without the planned railway.

The Chinese ambassador has been in the news for a couple of other things as well … such as some rather diplomatic comments about the effect of Kyrgyzstan’s entrance to the Customs Union might have on trade with China; apparently, as he sees it, everything depends on the concessions that Kyrgyzstan might be able to negotiate.

He’s also been sounding off about the problems faced by Chinese businessmen, which seems to include “inconsistent actions by government agencies”, “corporate raids” and “difficulties” with the local population.  So, nothing new there … it’s just interesting to see comments like these coming from such a source.  

I wonder if these situations have had any influence on the number of Chinese businesses which he says has fallen since June 2010.  The press reports, however, imply that the reduction, (and the fall in the number of Chinese students studying in Kyrgyzstan from 2000 to somewhere between 1600 and 1700), is connected with the events in Southern Kyrgyzstan, when some 1300 Chinese citizens were evacuated.  

Oddly enough, road construction has been in the news in a different way this week.  The Prosecutor’s Office have launched an investigation into two major road construction projects – specifically, as I understand it, to do with the expenditures and the purchase of materials.

That news came a day before some other rather surprising statistics about the number of cases launched against civil servants and others for corruption in the last year.  The cynic in me wonders if this could possibly have anything to do with showing that Kyrgyzstan is really trying to address the issue in the face of what appears to be rather critical comments emanating, in particular,  from Europe.

The Prosecutor’s office was in the news in a different way this week.  They announced that the United Kingdom has suggested, (offered), that as there is no extradition agreement between the two countries and Britain hasn’t ratified the IN convention on Extradition, (which surprised me), they could sign a Memorandum of Understanding and this could become a legal basis for extraditing Maksim Bakiev.

On a different note, but still connected with transport, I had to smile to myself when I saw a report about how a convoy of trucks carrying supplies for the German troops serving in Afghanistan have been held up for a week at a checkpoint on the Kyrgyz-Tajik border.   The trouble is that this particular checkpoint is designated as “local”, (that is, it is available only for use by Kyrgyz and Tajik citizens), as opposed to “international”, (that is open to use by citizens of third countries).  It seems that the embassy have asked the Foreign Ministry to help resolve the problem, but although the Kyrgyz side might be willing, it’s all governed by an international agreement and so has to be negotiated at government level.  Bureaucracy has a way of taking its time to go through procedures and so slowing things down.  It is something of which we who work in tourism are well aware.

We haven’t actually tried using this particular border crossing before, although we would like to because it is a particularly interesting part of the country and would save a lot of time and mileage on certain itineraries.   On the other hand, we have had our fingers burned at a different crossing.  On that occasion the Kyrgyz officials were only too willing to allow us to cross the border – but the other side wouldn’t hear of it, so we had to change our plans and add considerable to the mileage for the itinerary.

Whenever we think we are getting somewhere on the visa issue, for example, someone, somewhere seems to find something to hold us up.  Back in 2000. for example, the then President, (Askar Akaev), issued a decree instructing the Ministry opf Foreign Affairs to implement plan with the aim of introducing a visa free regime for WTO countries.  A week the deadline,m they came up with a plan which introduced a visa free regime for Japanese citizens as from the next New Year … and then a staggered programme covering some 28 countries – but for holders of Diplomatic Passports only.

Then, we thought we had an arrangement with Kazakhstan that allowed for the mutual recognition of each others visas, (well, limited recognition, only for citizens of certain countries, and only for those with tourist visas and only in certain parts of the country), but the officials took their to agree the details and implement the system.  Although, technically, the system now works, it is so bound by restrictions that it only seems to be of much value in a few extremely limited circumstances.

Now, we have a situation where politicians and officials are complaining that the border crossing posts aren’t equipped top handle a visa free regime.  They don’t have the necessary equipment that would enable them to link to a network database and record the data for people crossing the border, (and presumably check the blacklists of undesirable individuals – that every country maintains for themselves).  Out of almost 40 designated border crossing points, apparently, there are less than ten that have the necessary equipment.  Interestingly, even if we accept this as a sufficient reason for delaying progress on the issue, (and I am not sure that I do), there are less than ten that are designated as “international” and so likely to need this equipment.

The joke is that, although we have been talking about introducing a visa free regime for some years now, (it feels like a real marathon run), and a decision to do so was, (at least in theory), taken last year, it looks from various  news reports as if both Kazakhstan and Tajikistan may actually steal our thunder and beat us to it.

 

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Postcard from Bishkek: the weekly postcard that I send out as an email also gets posted on the website ianbek.kg each week – and there are other postcards which don’t get sent out.  This week, for example, there were postcards about:

• Questions, questions - An interview with Horeca, a magazine for those in the leisure industry; Hotels, Restaurants and Cafes;
• Green Foundation - Bishkek used to be known as the Greenest City on Earth but lately experts have questioned this status, so I took at a look at a new initiative aimed at planing and looking after new trees in the city;
• The Magnificent Seven - on International Biodiversity Day I took a look at some of Kyrgyzstan’s endangered species;
• Adding insult to injury? - about the theft of a statue from one of the streets in downtown Bishkek last Monday;
• Meaningful signs - Trying to make sense of what some signs mean can be more difficult than seems at first glance;
• Misha’s Bones - Misha is a sculptor who works in a variety of media, but specializing in metal.  Amongst his pieces, my favourites are his Alchiki – modeled on sheep bones.

 

It is now possible to follow me on Facebook, (where I have specific pages for Celestial Mountains and ianbek … and also links.kg and Kyrgyz Diary), and on twitter, (@Bishkekpostcard and @celestialMTC ).

Tags: Expat, Life_in_Kyrgyzstan, Weekly_Postcards