Postcard from Bishkek

Today is another one of the Professional Holidays that seem to be so common in this part of the world – the Day of Land Management, Geodesy and Cartography - and is meant to commemorate the work and contribution of all those working in land registration and cartography.

Two maps of particular importance in Kyrgyzstan’s history are

A map is a visual representation something, (usually a geographical area), symbolically highlighting relationships between things.

They normally used to represent in two dimensions, on a sheet of paper, the geographical location of places … although throughout history there have been a wide variety of styles and formats. The use of modern technology allows for even greater variety, such as 3D projections, GPS (Global Positioning Systems) and interactive maps, (as in the case of Google Earth).

Actually, it’s not really possible to represent features of the earths surface on a flat plane without some some of distortion – and there are several different types of map, each designed to present data for different purposes – with preserving the some properties, (such as area, bearing, direction, distance, scale or shape) of one at the expense of others.

 

Road maps are probably the most widely used maps today.  There isn’t really a road atlas of Kyrgyzstan, however, although several have been proposed and one reason for this is that there are so few roads - separated by vast areas of mountain ranges.  A problem with many maps is the accuracy, completeness or how up-to-date the information which is depicted. For example … many maps still show the A364 road which loops from the Barskoon valley south of Lake Issyk Kul through Kara Sai and Ak Shyirak (where the incursion by Uighur separatists a few weeks ago) to Enilchek and then Karakol – unfortunately this road is no longer usable as some of the bridges no longer exist.

It is also necessary, however, to remember that distances on the map cannot be automatically converted into actual distances traveled … or travelling times – a lot will depend on things like the terrain, the condition of the road, the weather conditions, and how many stops you make, (for taking photographs, or eating, or …).

Maps are an important tool, however, in fixing location and even small mistakes can lead to major disputes – as we discovered recently with the border disputes in the Ferghana valley.

The investigations are and negotiations arising out of those incidents are continuing.  There has been some agreement on withdrawing forces along the border, the joint patrols of the border zone but little progress on delimination  of the actual border itself.  Some agreement has been reached with Uzbekistan about the next stage of the process, but none with Tajikistan.

Over the last twelve years or so, the term “Roadmap” has taken on a new meaning – describing the steps involved in some (usually difficult) process and outlining the necessary landmarks to be passed on the route.    The term seems to have been coined to describe the “road map” to peace between Israel and its neighbours in 2002.  Here the term seems to have has been adopted with vigour and enthusiasm with roadmaps for this and that, like the entrance of Kyrgyzstan into the Customs Union with Russia, Kazakhstan and Belarus.

Accession to the Customs Union remains a hotly disputed topic … at least with the intelligentsia here in Bishkek.  If last week’s news of the survey that most people thought that Kyrgyzstan must join – even without any preconditions – that is not reflected everywhere.  At special meeting organized at one of the country’s leading Universities seems to have left very few people convinced … mainly, if the reports are to be believed, because the economic advantages were not really addressed.  There have, however, been a number of articles in the press, presumably hoping hoping to help shape public opinion, asserting that great benefits will follow.

The recent devaluation of the Kazakh Tenge, following closely on a similar, (but smaller), devaluation of the Russian Ruble may have come at a bad time … in terms of persuading people of the economic advantages.  Certainly, the Kazakhs are not happy with protest meetings continuing in, for example, Almaty.  The financial pundits here are in some disarray about what this will mean for us.  The authorities still maintain that we shouldn’t see much of a problem – for example there shouldn’t be price increases (in my naivety, I was under the impression that imports from Kazakhstan should actually be cheaper as a result …) but several price increases (for example a hike in the price of sugar) have already been blamed on the decision.

There is also some controversy as to whether we can defend the value of the som … The rate of exchange for both the US Dollar and the Euro are persistently rising … reaching unprecedented levels.  More has been spent by the National Bank in defending the som so far this year than was spent in the whole of last year.  Some people think that this cannot continue as it will lead to a drain on the country’s reserves – although some commentators are adamant that there are enough of these.  The Economy Minister went on record as saying that although the som will be defended, it mat be allowed to fluctuate to some extent … the main aim seems to be to intervene to prevent “shocks” to the system rather than pegging the value to a particular level.

Perhaps the strangest aspect of this story, however, was the arrest of some of the protesters in Almaty … because of a ban on “lace panties”.  Apparently, the import of lace underwear has now been banned throughout the Customs Union … it doesn’t pass the technical regulations for such garments in terms of “absorption” of moisture.  An example of how life will be governed by the monolithic Customs Union if and when we do join? … fortunately, the issue of lace underwear doesn’t seem to be as an aspect of life here in Kyrgyzstan to be all that popular as a rallying point. 

 

The story about arrest and release in Moscow of Adil Toyganbaev, (the former son-in-law of former President Akaev, who is wanted as a “person of interest” here in Kyrgyzstan on fraud and corruption charges), also took a surprise turn of events.  Arrested at the airport last week as he attempted to leave Russia, he was released on technical grounds that meant he couldn’t be extradited on the Kyrgyz warrant for his arrest.  In itself, that wasn’t a surprise … but days later he was re-arrested.  This time, it seems, that his vehicle was pulled over by the traffic police and when they checked the documentation, the Interpol Red Notice was flagged up by the computer and the officer duly took him into custody once more.  It’s nice to know that that part of the system works … but it was all to no avail because he was released once more on the same technicality. 

In the meantime, Eugene Gourevitch, (the financial adviser and confidant of Maksim Bakiev), has pleaded guilty to fraud and other counts in a court in the states.  There was hope in the past that this might help to provide grounds for the detention and extradition of Maksim himself, but it doesn’t look as if that is going to happen any time soon.

Corruption is back in the forefront of the news with charges formally being filed against the ex-mayor of Bishkek for abuse of power.  Perhaps one of the strangest aspects of his story emerged and concerned the security of his house here in Bishkek.  He arranged for it to be organized by the appropriate police department and was paying something like 40,000 a month – that’s over $800 – in cash, direct to the officers concerned … who failed to hand it in to the accounts department.  They’ve now been caught out and had to reimburse the money. 

The allegations against the Prime Minister about the time when he was in charge of the redevelopment of the South simmer away, but the Prourator’s office apparently closed the official investigation due to a lack of evidence to support them.

There also been news of various steps being undertaken on the roadmap for combating corruption, which led to an sightful comment from the Deputy Prime Minister that the fight is both a “difficult and thankless” task.     

The Procurator issued an interesting piece of news … most of the complaints it receives from the general public concerns complaints against “illegal” actions by the police … like the recent raids on the homes of the villagers involved in the Kumtor protests.

On the other hand, the police seem to be having a bad time recently.  One officer was apparently beaten up when he stopped a car with a “drunk” driver who happened to be a contestant in an international Billiards competition that was being held locally.  If he was indeed drunk, then this will add to the pressure to increase the penalties for this sort of offence, (being proposed as one of the measures in the roadmap to halt the startling increase in the number of road accidents), which one parliamentarian has suggested should include increasing the fine to 50,000 som (or one thousand dollars).

There was also a fracas in which a couple of officers were seriously injured, in one of the rural courts as a case was brought before it … and a riot staged by inmates in one of the country’s psychiatric hospitals.

Perhaps the most dramatic, however, was the video clip of an officer who was run down by a motorist, who grabbed onto the front of the car and refused to let go of the windscreen wipers as it was driven off.

 

In other ways, law enforcement has scored some successes – especially in detaining some alleged terrorist cells, one including people who had apparently received training in camps in Syria, and who were intent on causing trouble here in Kyrgyzstan.  It is reported that the members of the group included a mufti from one of the mosques.

This can only add to the growing pressure on religious organizations as the President’s campaign against Islamization continues.

Weapons and ammunition  were apparently discovered during the raids … which might contrast with the news that Kyrgyzstan has not purchased any new munitions since Independence – “Not one bullet”, according to one of the deputies.  What new material it has obtained, or is obtaining, has been/is thanks to donations and support from foreign governments – the Turks and the Russians for example.

The Russians in particular are making considerable efforts to support all sorts of projects …  they announced, for example, three and a half million dollars for the development of the Naryn region, including further Hydroelectric power plants.  The cynic in me, however, can’t help wondering if all this support might dry up if Kyrgyzstan does decide not to join the Customs Union. 

There’s also interest in the development of Manas here in Bishkek following the rundown of the Transit base – now well and truly underway.  A Memorandum of Understanding has been signed between the airport and a Russian company over the further development of the airport … which will be funded entirely by the Russians but will involve them receiving a transfer of 51% of the shares … leading to headlines around the world about how Kyrgyzstan was now  ”handing over the airport to the Russians”.

 

The Chinese are also facing a little problem over the much vaunted oil refinery that they are opening in Kara Balta.  Just as in the Kumtor case, the local community are up in arms over what they see as environmental dangers and have persuaded the government to halt work on the project.  Apart from possibly putting placing a strain on relations wit China it will make a significant dent in the government’s plans.

In the past I have mentioned another issue where relations with China might be dented … the proposal to build a rail link between China, and Uzbekistan through Kyrgyzstan.  The project has been on the cards for some time, but the initial preparatory study was sent back to China for reworking as the government felt that it didn’t meet Kyrgyzstan’s needs.  Then, during the week I was sent a report from the Jamestown foundation which highlighted the difficult choice facing the country between this East-West route and an alternative linking Kazakhstan and Tajikistan via Kyrgyzstan, (the North-South option).  My correspondent asked me to comment … I have posted the reply on the website in a separate postcard.

 

The new mayor of Bishkek has asked people to keep him posted of problems in the city which need to be addressed and has apparently been receiving photos sent in by citizens of things like road signs, that need attention, car parking problems and the growing problem over litter – especially the state of the city’s rubbish bins – many of them sent in using the What’sApp application for social media.  He’s promised action and seems to be making some effort to address the problems … in one case, for example, cancelling all roadside parking charges in the city until a proper plan (I was tempted to say “roadmap”) can be drawn up and put into effect.

 

Maybe it’s a sign of my own advancing years, but some of the most interesting reports this week have concerned pensioners … for example, it was reported that Bishkek has at least Centenarians, people over a hundred years old, in its one million population – the oldest, apparently, being 144 years old.  I am not sure if that is a high proportion but an age of 114 is pretty impressive and would qualify as one old living people in the world if it could be verified.

Then the local newspaper ran a story about someone living just outside the city who they said was 118 years old.  That would qualify as the the third oldest living person if it could be verified – apparently her passport simply records the year of her birth, 1896, and not the actual date of birth.  The secret of her long life – a good diet, (avoiding fried foods, eating porridge and drinking filtered water and Kumys – mare’s milk), prayer (five times a day) and not swearing.

Such senior citizens, of course, are entitled to a pension … and this week the Social Fund here in Bishkek released some statistics which raised a few eyebrows.  Apparently, there are about 581000 pensioners in the country – that’s over 10% of the population, and this number increased by some 16,000 last year, the lowest pension received is about 2500 som a month, and the highest, (received by just one person), is 100000.  It is hoped to increase the pensions again this year, by about 10%, but the system is undergoing some reform, (with the support of both the European Commission and the World Bank).

 

I ought to warn you that next week’s postcard might be a little late … I am going up to Naryn during the week and it will depend on what time I get back … the weather and, of course, the breaking news.

 

_______________________________________

Postcard from Bishkek: the weekly postcard that I send out as an email also gets posted on the website ianbek.kg each week – and there are other postcards which don’t get sent out.  This week, for example, there has been the following postcards:

• Always a good idea … ? - Why are all the best travel slogans already taken … Kyrgyzstan, always a good idea! – 16/02/14
• Now is the winter of our discontent  – “What a lot of weather we are having” … putting Bishkek’s temperature into a little context – 17/02/14
• Yusuf Abdrakhmanovich Abdrahmanov  – The story of the father of Modern Kyrgyzstan – 18/02/14
• In answer to a question: - A correspondent wrote asking me about the dilmma facing Kyrgyzstan … to support the development of the China-Kurgyzstan-Uzbekistan (East-West) railway or the Kazakhstan-Kyrgyzstan-Tajikistan (North-South) route – 19/02/14
• Djumabek Asankulov  – The man who was the M of Kyrgyzstan … and some interesting stories about the declaration of Independence – 20/02/14
• The day of the Guide - Friday was the International Day of the Guide … - 21/02/14

It is possible to follow me on Facebook, (where we also have specific pages for Celestial Mountains, the Silk Road Lodge, The Celestial Mountains Guesthouse in Naryn  and also links.kg, Kyrgyz Diary and Kyrgyzstan Visitki … and not forgetting ianbek), and also on twitter, (@Bishkekpostcard and @celestialMTC ).

Tags: