Postcard from Bishkek

I wrote a postcard the other about potatoes I bought in Kochkor whilst I was on my way back from Naryn.  Potatioes are a really versatile crop and can be cooked in all sorts of ways: boiled, mashed, baked, fried, roast … and so on.

The standard, of course is boiling – clean and peel the potatoes, and boil them in slightly salted water – possibly with herbs and serve with a dab of butter.  Simple and easy.

Of course, the kids like chips, (fries, for the American, kartofal free in Russian).  They also like “mashed” potatoes – or puree - but that always seems to me like a lot of hard work.  If I am out and Potato Croquettes are on the menu, (mashed potato rolled onto balls, coated in breadcrumbs and then deep fried), then I’ll often chose that, but I don’t really like making them.

I once surprised them with Roast Potatoes, cooked around a joint of meat in the oven.  Washed, peeled and cut into similar sized chunks which are placed around the meat, (Beef, Lamb, Pork, Chicken … whatever), and then pour oil over them.  Put the dish in the oven and retire whilst it cooks … returning every now and again to baste the meat … and the potatoes, (so that the outsides are crisp).    It was something which they had never come across before … but they sometimes ask me to repeat the dish.

One of my favourites, however, is Baked potatoes (or Jacket Potatoes) which are even simpler and easier to prepare … and make a filling meal in themselves.  One writer calls them a perfect “no-brainer meal”; something easy and warm.   You just select your potatoes – not all types are suitable, producing the right sort of flaky texture; they need to be the right sort of size without blemishes, (bruises), or sprouts – clean them, cutting out any “eyes” and piece the skin with a fork or sharp knife four or five times on each side (that’s to stop them exploding in the over) … and then put them in the oven and leave them until the skins are crisp and brown and the insides are soft and they fall off a knife – which takes about 45 minutes.  (You can flip them over half way through, but it’s not necessary).    Take them out of the oven and cut a cross into the top … and top with a filling – plain butter, baked beans, cheese, fish, smetana (sour cream), chilli con carne … basically, “you name it”, anything goes.

Then, they introduced me to Draniki.  This is a sort of Potato Pancake, (similar to Jewish Latkes which are popular at Hanukah), and found in different forms throughout European and Middle Eastern cuisines.  We even have something similar in Britain, called Tattie Fish, (“Tattie” because they are made from potatoes and “Fish” because the final result is supposed to resemble a fried fish).  They are even considered to be the national dish in Belarus.  You probably won’t find them on a restaurant menu because they are considered to be a “poor man’s food”, but they are often at home and Domashniy Draniki are well worth trying.

Whereas Croquettes are made from mashed potatoes, Draniki are made from grated potato.  Apparently, Draniki means “having been grated”.  That was a surprise for me because, although I have eaten Hash Brown, I would never have thought of grating a potato.  There are many variations but basically you need five or six large potatoes, an an onion, some sour cream and salt.

Grate the vegetables  then mix them; add a tablespoonful of sour cream and a pinch of salt.     Some people add an egg to the mixture.  Pour some oil into a frying pan and take a handful of the mixture, and place it (carefully) into the fat and fry.  Some people pat the mixture together to make a pancake, like a rissole or burger, but I prefer them loosely packed, (like a bird’s nest),  so that the oil flows around the draniki and it is fried on all sides.

They can be served hot as a garnish, or separately with apple sauce, sour cream or basically, “you name it”, almost anything goes.  They can even be served cold as a sort of snack food.

Simple and tasty.

 

Tags: Food and Drink