Postcard from Bishkek

Today’s a big day for Kyrgyzstan – Independence Day.

I’ve written elsewhere about the public holiday and, yesterday, I wrote about the events that led to Kyrgyzstan breaking its bonds with the former Soviet Union - even if it now looks as if they are about to forge them anew.

Kyrgyzstan loves a celebration … (No, that’s not quite right … Kyrgyzstan LOVES a celebration … that’s more like it)  … and today’s looks like being another classic affair with a parade (although the parades are a little bit different these days compared to the ones in the past), a gala concert, the final of the President’s Cup in the national sport – Kok Buro … and, of course, the obligatory firework display (probably using Chinese fireworks) and lots of other festivities to keep people busy enjoying themselves.

As it happens, I’m going to be missing all the fun … because I am on my way up to Naryn … maybe we’ll get to see something up there but I suspect that my celebrations will be vicarious – with the help of a television broadcast.

Although there has been a fair amount of build up in the press, with announcements of various events, (every theater and cinema, for example, is going to have a special performance and there will be a big event in the Old Square and fireworks to round the whole thing off), as I drove through the main square yesterday, apart from a few placards, it didn’t look any different from a normal Friday morning … and one person commented to me that there was no feeling of a “holiday atmosphere” – which struck me as particularly odd as he was a Jehovah’s Witness … and they don’t celebrate anyway.

It would be easy – but simplistic – to blame the lack of party spirit on the weather … which has turned cool after the weeks of soaring temperatures.  On Thursday it was quite overcast and there was some rain which led to one of the most brilliant and clearest rainbows I have seen for a long time.  I didn’t have my camera with me – but Calvin did … and he snapped it …  in fact, he spotted that it was a “double rainbow”, although the second one was a bit faint.

It would also be easy – but simplistic – to blame the lack of holiday atmosphere on the news … which has tended to dampen spirits even though it’s been full of drama and intrigue.  Indeed - all in all, it’s been an interesting week …

Last week, for example, there was the announcement that a fifteen year old up in Issyk Kul had been hospitalized – and later died – in what was thought might be a case of bubonic plague.  Later analysis confirmed the diagnosis.  I didn’t write about last week because the news was just breaking and I decided to do some research … and I am glad that I did because I have spent a fair amount of the week talking to people about it … either in person or on the phone.  I even got asked to appear on British radio – but by the time I saw the invitation the programme was already on the air.

So, yes, he did have the plague … chooma … and over 160 people with whom he had come into contact were quarantined and placed under medical supervision.  It seems he was probably infected by a flea bite which he probably got from handling the carcass of a dead marmot – although there were also suggestions that he might have been eating marmot, (apparently, marmots are renowned for harbouring the disease).  An emergency center was set up and supplies of antibiotics were rushed to the area.  All in line with World Health Organization guidelines.

It’s easy to see, therefore, why the government were somewhat exasperated by the coverage the story received in the international press.  One doctor on twitter went so far as to call the press coverage as tantamount to hysteria.  From their accounts it would be easy to assume that we were threatened by a massive outbreak of epidemic proportions … in fact it all occurred in a very remote and isolated mountain area, with a very sparse population – all of which would have helped to isolate any outbreak … if one were to occur.  After a week with no further cases – although some people running high temperatures were taken into hospital as a precautionary measure.  The incubation period has passed and people are being released from hospital and quarantine.

As it happens, this isn’t the first case of bubonic plague in the region – although it was the first since the 1980′s.  Yes – apparently there is bubonic plague amongst some of the wildlife in certain parts of Kyrgyzstan and has been for some time.  Some historians even think that the Black Death may have originated here and been conveyed to Europe in the fourteenth century, where it wiped out about a third of the population, along the trade routes that we now call the Great Silk Road.

On the other hand, there is plenty of bubonic plague ion lots of places around the world … including in neighbouring Kazakhstan, for example, (so why did they make so much fuss, talking about closing the border and advising their citizens not to travel to Kyrgyzstan or to return home if they were already here), parts of Africa and even in the South Western United States.  Worldwide there are about 1000 recorded cases of the disease being discovered every year … and the last time an “epidemic” occurred was in South America when 12 people died … “where was all the press comment when that happened?”

What makes the whole thing so sad is that even this one victim need not have died … IF he had received treatment as soon as the symptoms appeared … apparently, antibiotics administered within 12-24 hours of their appearance are generally effective in beating it off.

Another comment on Facebook called for the government to take control of information being released to the foreign media – in order to protect the image of the country and prevent the negative impressions that it was casting.  What surprised me was that this draw a response of “You are absolutely right and we are looking at it” from a government official – someone who earlier (on a different topic) had pointedly said that certain things were not in the government’s remit and they weren’t going to get bogged down in them, (at least that’s my interpretation of what he said).

 

Given the relevant level of risks, however, what should have attracted more attention it seems to me was the news that 40% of the coutry’s water supply systems are considered to be “in poor condition”, over 10% are considered “defective” and a substantial number “do not meet sanitary standards”.

It’s hard to say if that is part of the cause of a large number of intestinal diseases being registered in certain parts of the country – including 16 cases of typhoid.  I suppose typhoid doesn’t have the same “newsworthiness” as “bubonic plague” but it seems to me that it merits greater attention than it’s getting at the moment.

To be fair, at least one newspaper picked up on the news and published an article on the topic … but it got drowned out with all the coverage of chooma.

 

Perhaps that’s why one of the international reporters based in Central Asia decided to publish an article on Alternative Medicine which seems to be experiencing a heyday at the moment.  Perhaps that is partly due to the high cost of pharmaceuticals, (especially when compared to the cost of herbs, many of which grow wild and can be gathered in Kyrgyzstan’s mountains); a number of highly publicized scandals of about the quality of drugs, (either being past their “use by” dates, or because they are seen as not properly licensed, … and there seems to be an impression that Western companies are using Kyrgyzstan as a “testing ground”), and a general increase in interest in traditional shamanistic practices.

One of the interesting stories of the week was that it is being proposed that antibiotics should be sold only on the basis of a Doctor’s prescription.  That surprised me because I thought that, (technically at least), that was already the case …

 

Well the other big news of the week broke with a story of a meeting between an official from Kumtor met with two of the companies biggest critics, (who have apparently organized some of the protests against the company), in a cafe in Karakol at the end of July. Someone apparently set up a video camera and recorded the whole thing … including phrases like: “no one shall decide on the future” Kumtor “- neither the government nor the president,” “we are not afraid of anyone except God.” “Kumtor” will not work if we do not agree”, expressions that certain well known opposition leaders supported them, (although one of them has publicly disowned them and says he doesn’t know them); talk of civil war and revolution, (. “We will close Kumtor,” we are ready to “declare war, there will be a civil war, there will be a revolution,” ), and a “demand” for three million dollars. The recording hit the internet and was shown on national TV this week.

It’s led to a number of protests – some ”against bribery and blackmail”, (basically supporting the government and the company), and others supporting the rebyata, some claiming that the video is a fake, calling on the law enforcement agencies to explain themselves, (… for example, why has the video surfaced now of all times – when the meeting took place weeks ago – when the government are about to announce the results of their negotiations with the company about the future operation of the mine), and threatening the standard Kyrgyz tactic – to block roads.

A criminal investigation has been opened and the two critics arrested … and released … with claims from the government that they will be dealt with under due legal process and the protesters have promised that they will only act within the law but due legal process tends to take a long time and the September 20th deadline mentioned in the meeting is fast approaching.

Incidentally, I am half expecting the owner of the cafe will try to get the room added onto the itinerary for tour groups … “This is where it all happened“!.

 

One of the suggestions circulating at the moment is that the leaked recording is all part of a scheme to try and boost confidence in foreign investors and pacify concerns about the difficulties of working in Kyrgyzstan – “Look, we’re working on the issue and making progress”.  The interesting thing is that according to the National Statistics Committee, the level of foreign investment arriving in the country has seen a dramatic rise this year – up more than 25% on last year’s level.

 

It’s hard to decide what was the strangest news items to emerge during the week.

One candidate would be the story that broke at the beginning of the week of a car accident in Bishkek.  There’s nothing special about that in itself, but it appears that the passengers of one of the cars involved included two diplomats from the Uzbek embassy – including the Ambassador himself.  It seems that some of them were allegedly “dunk” and proceeded to beat up a resident of the city.  The incident apparently merited a formal note of protest being sent to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs to their colleagues in Tashkent, but as they apparently have a history of ignoring such notes in the past … one wonders if anything is likely to come from this one.  The embassy refused to comment when apprached by Kyrgyz reporters

One of the most popular TV programmes in Russia is called “Pust Gonryat“, (“Let them talk”), although I prefer to call it “Pust Krichat“, (“Let them scream and shout”).  It’s a sort of Jerry Springer show format where controversial themes are explored in front of a studio audience which includes a number of “experts” and “authorities”.  The topics are usually very sad and emotions tend to run high and athough tempers are known to flare, I don’t think I have ever seen an episode, (not that I watch that many of them, but the kids do … they love it), where the invited parties actually come to blows.  When it comes to audience participation, however, they scream and shout, taunt and bellow at one another and I suppose there are people who think that it makes for good TV … but in my opinion it is just embarrassing and detracts from the serious issues that are being explored.  Be that as it may, it been in the local headlines because they invited a young activist from Kyrgyzstan to appear on an episode … to explore the provision of social services for children in need and especially former residents of the country’s children’s homes and orphanages.  It seems he was highly critical of the fact that in Kyrgyzstan such services are basic but small fortunes are being shelled out to provide accommodation for deputies.

Then there was the report that came as the week drew to a close with an article about the Border Guards and other law enforcement agencies have mounted a search in the Sarzo Jaz region on the Kyrgyz Tajik border for a group of paratroopers, (about five people), who were seen by local herders.  Who?  What?  Where? …

 

As I said … all in all, it’s been an interesting week … and I have only “scratched the surface” of some of the many interesting stories that have emerged during the week … especially stories about the start of the new school year – but, maybe, more about that another time as time and space are limited and, as usual, I think I have probably gone on for too long.  So, I’ll finish packing and make my way up to Naryn … in the meantime, Se prazdnikom – Happy holidays!

Happy Independence Day.

 

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Postcard from Bishkek: the weekly postcard that I send out as an email also gets posted on the website ianbek.kg each week – and there are other postcards which don’t get sent out.  This week, for example, there has been the following postcards:

Tags: Expat, In_the_News, Life_in_Kyrgyzstan, Weekly_Postcards