Toru Aigyr
Toru Aigur is a village about 20 kilometres East of Balykchi.
It’s a small and seemingly unimposing village which one might easy pass by and miss it, but it is one that I often cite as an example of the fact that there is almost always something of interest to be found wherever you look. All that is needed is a sense of inquiry and an open mind.
As is often the case throughout Kyrgyzstan, there is little to actually see; monuments, buildings or ruins that would give evidence of mankind having inhabited the place over the centuries. That is not to say, however, that such evidence is non existent … over the years, archaeologists have made a number of discoveries … it’s just that they are not visible. For example,
- near the village, the remains of an ancient settlement have been discovered with examples of petroglyphs and stone statues.
- In the 1940’s archaeologists discovered the remains of a medieval bath house with ceramic pipes to channel in the water an turquoise glazed bricks on the floor.
- Near the lakeside a potter’s workshop has been unearthed and from time to time ceramics, coins and other artefacts are sometimes found washed up after storms.
- There have been a wide range of other individual finds unearthed in the locality, such as a large copper pot … and locals believe that there are yet more “treasures” to find.
Some of these finds can be seen in the new “private museum” housed in the Raritet Bookshop in the Dom Druzhba building in central Bishkek.
There is a road into the mountains leads to the canyons of Kalmak Suu, Taldy Bulak, Dure Suu, Kabyrga and Toru Aigur. There are also routes over the mountains to Lake Kel Kogur, the Chon Kemin valley and also onto Almaty.
Perhaps the most interesting thing about the village is the story behind its name … which Kyrgyz for Bay Steed and, as that implies, the village was named for a horse.
Now, a strong and healthy horse is a symbol of wealth to the Kyrgyz. (It is said that a rider can fall asleep on his horse – but it will find its own way carry its master back to their home yurt with no problem – and I can believe it … I’ve seen it). There are many legends about clever and bold horses … and Toru Aigyr was one such horse.
There are several versions of the legend – but they agree on the main points:
Toru Aigyr was a magnificent, fiery, brown horse owned by a famous, brave and popular hero of his people. One day the hero and his horse left to fight against the enemies of the people who were threatening them … and they were absent for a long time.
Months passed.
News came that the battle was over. The people waited for the hero to return … but he didn’t. Even so, they did not lose hope.
Then one day, whilst grazing the sheep in the meadows above the lake, some shepherds looked out over the waters and saw something dark and pointed swimming through the normally calm waters. Curious as to what it could be, they watched it closely. Finally, after many hours, it came close enough to be identified. It was Toru Aigyr.
The crowd stood and watched as the horse emerged from the lake, shook itself dry and then raced inland to the mountains, where his master’s yurt had stood.
The people now realised that their beloved hero had died – and that Toru Aigyr had brought them the sad news.
Bishkek