Postcard from Bishkek

For the last couple of years, here in Kyrgyzstan we have experienced a number of problems over border crossings.  As a result of the events of April 7th and later in June, the borders were closed and restrictions placed on people crossing into and from the neighbouring countries.

The border with China re-opened almost straight away, although there are only two crossing points, Torugart and Irkeshtam and these are subject to their own restrictions.  The border with Kazakhstan operated on a restricted regime for most of last year, and foreigners are able to cross at certain designated posts, and often having to wait for long periods to complete the formalities.  Last week saw the border with Uzbekistan opened, (although some foreigners were able to use the Dostuk post just North of Osh, for most of this period the situation was unclear.)

For those of coming from Europe with its policy of “Open Borders”, the situation can be somewhat surprising … and frustrating.  It’s not as simple as travelling from London to Amsterdam … although at one time it was quite different.

During the soviet period, the borders of Kyrgyzstan with Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan and Tajikistan were simply administrative borders between the different constituent Republics of the Soviet Union.  The border with China was an international border, as it is now, but access was strictly controlled.

Now, all the borders are international borders – and it is illegal to cross the border anywhere other than at official designated border crossings.

A list of such border posts needs to be constantly updated as new posts are being added all the time – especially in the South where the Kyrgyz Republic shares borders with Uzbekistan and Tajikistan.  According to one report some 16 new posts are planned to be created by 2010, making a total of 78 in all.

However, not all posts have the full facilities for border crossings, and not all are designated as “local”, (that is, for citizens of the two countries who share the border), such as the one at Namagan in the Djalal Abad oblast on the border with Uzbekistan – where tourists have been turned back by the officials, having to detour all the way to the Dostuk crossing at Osh – a six hour journey.

During the Soviet period, there were some popular trekking routes across the Kungey Ala Too Mountains between Almaty, in Kazakhstan, and Lake Issyk Kul, in Kyrgyzstan.  Nowadays, however, this border is an international border and it is not allowed to cross it in the mountains and trekkers, (even locals), have experienced difficulties with the authorities for illegally crossing the state border through the mountains.

This is a list of the main posts used by Tourists:

Post	Location	Oblast	Bordering with
Ak Jol	18km from Bishkek on the Bishkek Almaty road. (Often known locally as Kordai – The Kazakh post is called Kordai)	Chui	Kazakhstan
Basharino	On the Tup-Almaty Road – near Kegen (in Kazakhstan).  (Strictly speaking it is open only to citizens of Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan but many people, including myself, have been able to use it in the past)	Issyk Kul	Kazakhstan
Chaldovar	98km to the West of Bishkek on the Tashkent road.	Chui	Kazakhstan
Dostuk	5 km along the Osh Andijan road, in the village of Dostuk	Osh	Uzbekistan
Irkeshtam	Iskeshtam village	Osh	China
Kenesh		Talas	Kazakhstan
Kyzyl Art	On the Osh-Khorog road, at Vor Dobo	Osh	Tajikistan
Torugart	On the Naryn-Kashgar road – at the Torugart pass	Naryn	China

I said that the Torugart and Irkeshtam border crossings were subject to special conditions.  One of these is the opening hours during which they operate.

Torugart,, for example, is closed to all except citizens of Kyrgyzstan or The People’s Republic of China, but  …

• foreigners can get permission to cross from the Department of Foreign Affairs in Urumqui, however …
• they have to be met at the border by a representative of a recognised travel company, who will arrange.  (Foreigners are NOT allowed to take their own vehicles into China without special permission which is expensive and takes several months to get, so the Chinese agency which arranges the permission usually arranges transport to Kashgar as well.) and …
• although no permits are needed on the Kyrgyzstan side, provided they have a visa and are simply crossing the border, there can be complications if they are not accompanied as they pass through the restricted border zone, (for example the authorities expect “group lists” … ) … but …
• local accompanying staff (drivers and guides), do need permits.

The regulations concerning Irkeshtam are slightly different but the opening hours when both the posts operate are restricted.  It is closed on weekends and any Public Holiday, on either side of the border!

• At weekends – every Saturday and Sunday
• On public holidays, It is best to avoid days either side of holidays … especially, if the holiday falls on a weekend;

In 2012 these holidays are:

New Year	China and Kyrgyzstan	Sunday January 1st – Tuesday January 3rd	3 Days
Orthodox Christmas	Kyrgyzstan	Saturday, January 7th	1 day
Chinese Spring Festival	China	Saturday January 22nd – Friday January 28th	7 days
Defenders of the Fatherland	Kyrgyzstan	Wednesday February 23rd	1 day
International Women’s Day	Kyrgyzstan	Wednesday March 8th	1 day
Norus	Kyrgyzstan	Tuesday March 21st	1 day
People’s Revolution Day	Kyrgyzstan	Friday March 24th	1 day
Qing Ming Festival	China	Sunday April 2nd – Tuesday April 4th	3 days
International Labour Day	China and Kyrgyzstan	Saturday April 29th – Monday May 1st	3 days
Constitution Day	Kyrgyzstan	Friday May 5th	1 day
Victory Day	Kyrgyzstan	Tuesday May 9th	1 day
Dragon Boat Festival	China	Thursday June 22nd – Saturday June 24th	3 days
Army Day	China	Wednesday August 1st	1 day
Orozo Ait *	China and Kyrgyzstan	Tuesday August 15th or Wednesday August 16th	1 day
Independence Day	Kyrgyzstan	Thursday August 31st	1 day
Mid Autumn Festival and National Day	China	September 30th – October 7th	8 days
Kurman Ait *	Kyrgyzstan	Probably Monday October 23rd	1 day
Anniversary of the October Revolution	Kyrgyzstan	Tuesday November 7th	1 day

 

Arrangements at the border crossings are subject to change … and it is best to check nearer the date.  Where several holidays fall close together, then the posts can also be closed on the intervening days.

* Orozo Ait and Kurman Ait are moveable lunar feasts and dates may vary.

 

• For bad weather –
• • it can snow in any month of the year – in July 1999 and August 2000 the border closed for three days because a meter of snow fell and blocked the road
  • often in Spring and Autumn heavy rains can wash away parts of the road.

Sometimes the border can also be closed at very short notice for all sorts of reasons … for example:

• In October 2001 the border was closed to foreigners for an unspecified period due to the situation in Afghanistan.
• In 2003 it was closed in response to SARS for an indefinite period … in each case it was re-opened when the risks were deemed to have passed;
• In 2008 during the build up to and during the Beijing Olympics
• … and, of course, last year during the unrest experienced in Southern Kyrgyzstan

Both posts also operate a long Lunch Break.

 

Tags: Irkeshtam, Kyrgyzstan, Torugart, Tourism