Nightlife and entertainment
Nightlights
Bishkek might not have a claim to be one of the major cities of the world, (like London, Paris or New York), but it is the capital city of Kyrgyzstan and it does have a number of important and interesting buildings, monuments, parks, museums, galleries, theaters and other places worth seeing or visiting.
It doesn’t, however, always go according to plan. There were, for examples, the tourists who arrived in Bishkek at 6:30 on Tuesday evening and were planning to stay just a couple of days – and when they said that would “like to catch a show, maybe a concert or a ballet”, I had to “let them down gently”.
Pointing out that if they had told me earlier when arranging the tour itinerary we could have tried to arrange something, but as it was – there wasn’t that much going on at that particular time. It was summer – and the theater and ballet seasons were over … and even if there had been anything on, it would almost certainly be at the weekend, (after they had left), and start at something like 5:30 or 6:00. I promised to see if there were any concerts and in the end we had to resort to visiting a cafe/bar for some “easy listening” music.
For someone who is staying in Bishkek longer, however, there is quite a bit of choice – it’s just a case of finding out what’s on – where and when.
Nighthawks by Edwin Hopper
CAFES, RESTAURANTS and BARS
In the lead up to Independence – and just after – there were a very limited number of restaurants in Bishkek … according to one source, just nine in the whole city. Things have changed and nowadays, there is a wide range of cafes, restaurants and bars – one local directory listed over 300 – and there is something to suit almost any taste, (although vegetarians might have a bit of difficulty finding suitable dishes), and pocket. Of course, new establishments are opening all the time, some change management, and some close. As a result a comprehensive list of “recommended” places to eat is difficult to maintain.
DISCOTEQUES and NIGHT CLUBS
Bishkek is a cosmopolitan capital city with a wide range of cafés, bars and nightclubs. As one website puts it: “Whatever type of bar or club you are looking for, you will find it in Kyrgyzstan.”
They usually open in the evening and work through until the last customer leaves. Once again, The situation changes frequently as establishments change owners, names, etc. The situation changes frequently, however, as establishments change owners/names etc. Most nightclubs and discos have an entrance charge but this can vary from night to night, especially when there is a special programme.
As well as the variety of bars, discos and nightclubs, many restaurants also have dance floors and double as dance venues. They usually open in the evening and often work through until the last customer leaves.
A word of caution: Personal safety and security are always an issue when attending nightspots anywhere in the world – and Bishkek is no different.
MUSIC
It is possible to find just about any form of music in Bishkek, Classical, Pop, Jazz, Rock … and so on. Much of the more modern genres are to be found in Cafes and Nightclubs … the more classical venues are:
- The Philharmonia – on the corner of Manas and Chui – There are two concert halls, (large and small) which feature concerts of classical, traditional Kyrgyz, and pop music as well as variety shows.
Box Office (KACCA) is located on the west side of the building
At the intersection of Prospects Chui and Manas
Tel: 614015 - The Opera and Ballet Theatre – Sovietskaya – the theatre has resident opera and ballet companies and there are sometimes performances by visiting companies as well. The season is usually held between Autumn and Spring – although there may be performances at other times of the year as well. There is a ballroom, which is also sometimes used for concerts.
Named after Abdylas Maldabaev
2013 – The theater is presenting its 71st season
Abdyrakhmonv (formerly Sovietskaya) 167
Tel.: 661841 - The Conservatory – 115 Jantosheva – occasional concerts by students and professors.
- Seitek Youth Centre – Abdumomunova, between Erkindik and Tynystanova
- Several restaurants also have resident musicians – or programs.
- Concerts are sometimes given in the Sports Palace and Spartak Stadium
- Several restaurants also have resident musicians – or programs.
- It is also possible for tour companies such as ours to arrange special concerts of traditional Kyrgyz Music. For example by professional performers from resident company at The Philharmonia or “Jetigen” – an award winning ensemble of children from one of Bishkek’s specialist Music schools.
DRAMA
The theaters etc. do not show performances every night. When there are performances they often start at 5:00pm. Even in the height of the season there may be only one or two performances a week. There are usually posters outside the venue advertising performances – and occasionally adverts appear in the press or on Television. Except for special performances (by visiting troupes etc.) it is usually possible to get tickets on the night. Tickets are cheap by Western standards …
- The Russian Drama Theatre: In Oak Park – the company performs a range of local and international plays – but performances are in Russian unless otherwise stated.
Named in honour of Chinghiz Aitmatov
2013 – The Theatre is presenting its 78th Season
There are two stages: the Main stage and the Small stage - The Kyrgyz Drama Theatre: the company performs a range of local and international plays – performances are in Kyrgyz or Russian,
The Toktobolot Abdumomunova Kyrgyz National Academic Drama Theatre
All performances are in Kyrgyz unless otherwise stated
2013 – The theater is presenting its 86th season.
The theater has recently reopened following major repairs to the main hall.
There are two stages: the Main stage and the Small stage - The Kyrgyz State Puppet Theatre– performances on Sundays at 11:00am
M. Jangaziev Kyrgyz State Puppet Theatre - The Seitek Youth Centre
Abdumomunova 197 (between Tynystanova and Erkindik)
Tel.: 570225 - Bishkek City Drama Theatre
Named after A. Umaraliev
Performances are usually in the Russian Drama Theatre. Performances are in either Russian or Kyrgyz (as noted). Often hosts visiting international troupes as well - Tunguch Theatre
Chui 168, (at the intersection with Turusbekov – behind the Metro Pub)
Tel.: 310715
CINEMA
There are several cinemas and many have undergone renovations to offer a modern experience, with multiscreens, quality sound and some even facilities for showing 3D films. Most of them show films in Russian or Kyrgyz – very rarely in other languages, however there are occasional festivals where “foreign” films can be enocountered.
- Ala Too – Prospect Chui – on the corner with Erkindik
- Bishkek Park – in the shopping center on Kievskaya, between Prospect Manas and Isanovna.
- Dom Kino : the House of Cinema – Logvinenko Street
Home to the Cinematographer’s Union, which often hosts seasons of international films. Films are often shown twice – once in their original form and the second time dubbed into Russian. Other events often take place here, such as jazz concerts and poetry readings. - Kosmopark – on the outskirts of town with 4 screens
- Manas – Prospect Mira, South of Akhunbaeva –
The Manas Cinema opened its doors in 1966 and at that time was the largest widescreen cinema in the Soviet Union with a hall seating 740 people. The modern cinema has a capacity for 550 people with a large screen, (as tall as a three storey building – the biggest in Central Asia), as well as two smaller halls. It has facilities for 3D films and 8 channel sound system. - October – Prospect Chui near the corner with Molodaya Gvardia – Shows films in Kyrgyz, 2 screens
- Russia, (Rossiya) – on the corner of Prospect Chui and Togolok Moldo – a “multiplex” with three screens, this has the largest screen in town.
- Vefa Center – At the intersection of Sovietska and Gorky Streets
The Circus building can be found on Frunze Street, just West of the intersection with Sovietskaya. Sometimes local acts perform – but the Circus also plays host to a number of visiting troupes from China and other CIS countries.
SPORTING FACILITIES:
For those seeking activity, then Bishkek offers a variety of sporting facilities including: Athletics; Badminton; Billiards, (although the game here is different from traditional Billiards, Snooker and Pool in the West); Bowling, (3 centers of different sizes); Dance, (there are a number of Dance studios – which can offer lessons or simply a space to practice); Football; Golf, (just a 20 minute drive from the center of Bishkek, there is The Maple Leaf Golf and Country Club which offers a challenging 9-hole course of 3207 yards, with a view of the Tian Shan mountains and a setting of tranquil beauty and fresh air. For beginners a driving range and practice putting green are available. It is possible to hire clubs and balls. There is also a “Pro Shop” and a Club House for relaxation before and after your game.Created by a Canadian designer, this is the second golf course in Central Asia); Gymnasiums, and fitness clubs; Horse Riding, (for example, an Equestrian School on Bakinskaya gives lessons in horse riding … The Hippodrome Race Course is sometimes host to traditional games); Ice Skating, (three different rinks of different sizes); Martial Arts clubs, (Judo, Tae-Kwan-Do, Ju-jitsu and others); Skiing, (just outside Bishkek are a number of ski-centers, the skiing season lasts from November till April); Swimming; and Tennis.
The Sports Palace on Togolok Moldo is also used for exhibitions and concerts, behind the building is an open air swimming pool.
The Spartak Stadium on Togolok Moldo has a Boxing Center in the grounds with weight-training and other facilities. The stadium has an all weather athletic track. Sometimes, in summer, it is also used for concerts.
SAUNAS
Bishkek has a number of saunas – ranging from the City Municipal sauna on Ibraimova Street, the swimming pools (Dolphin and Sports Palace), Karven Club, several in various hotels (including the Silk Road Lodge), private establishments, and even some in private homes. During the electricity restrictions of 2009 saunas powered by electricity were closed by the authorities in order to help conserve electricity supplies.
FESTIVALS
There are quite a few festivals held in Bishkek – music festivals, Jazz festivals, Film festivals and so on. Unfortunately, they are not always announced well in advance which can make planning something to do on a visit quite difficult – but it is worth bearing in mind and asking when arranging a trip.
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CASINOS
There used to be a number of casinos in Bishkek – some of which were small, but others were quite large and offered a range of gaming facilities. Over the years, however, there were several attempts to either regulate them, (restricting their numbers and location), or to close them altogether and in 2012 a, (somewhat controversial), law was passed banning them from the country. (Apparently, however, some still operate underground like “speakeasies” of Chicago and Prohibition America.) The law only applied to Casinos and in recent weeks there has been pressure, (including statements of support from the President), to extend it to bookmakers and other forms of gambling.
On the other hand, there have also been arguments to create special zones where casinos could operate … following the example of Russia, Kazakhstan and other places … and thus benefit from the attraction Casinos for Indians, Chinese Kazakhs and others whilst limiting and protecting the local population from the “social evils” associated with gambling … but it looks as if, (if the proposal will ever be approved), that this will not be for some time in the future.
AROUND THE COUNTRY
Although I have concentrated on the situation here in Bishkek – there are also some opportunities in other centers around the country … at the regional theaters or a nightclub in Osh for example. In the Soviet period most settlements of any size would have a Dom Kultura where various activities would be organized but, to be honest, venues and schedules will be more limited.
Bishkek