Message – June 18th, 2005

October 10th, 2008 Sections: Living in Interesting Times

Although things were generally quiet, some events were still occurring which were causing concern and another attempt to storm the White House prompted the following message:

I know that it is some time since I last wrote, (one month), but I have been very busy – and things have, until now, been very quiet.  The situation, however, is developing . and I thought I should send an update. I don’t yet know how much you will know of what is happening – but Bishkek is in the news once more and we have already, apparently, had enquiries at the hotel from various reporters looking for accommodation.  I, myself, didn’t see anything on CNN or the BBC – but there are stories on the internet – so it is possible I just missed them.

Where to start?  First of all, I suppose, some background information about what has been going on:

The campaign has now started for the Presidential Election.  The two main contenders (Bakiev and Kulov) have formed a unified team although sometimes it seems as if they have two separate campaigns.  Bakiev held a huge meeting to outline his economic policy.  That was about two weeks ago . Kulov, (who – according to the plan – as Prime Minister should have responsibility for economic affairs), was noticeably absent.  Instead he has launched his own policy . or at least a process for formulating a policy.  Apparently one Russian newspaper is of the opinion that the agreement between the two is built upon distrust rather than on trust, because it is full of caveats.

In an attempt to overcome the bad publicity arising out the events in March, a trip for travel journalists was organized . and on their first night in Bishkek a Deputy was gunned down in the street.  At the moment it is not clear what the reason for the shooting was . as well as being a politician, he was also a businessman, and apparently there are suggestions of criminal connections.  There was also a report from his daughter that he was “offered a bargain: to give all his companies to several very influential people”, but he refused – and she thinks they were behind it.

Protesters had occupied the country’s Supreme Court for more than a month, complaining that the judges had taken unfair decisions against candidates during February parliamentary elections. Supporters of rival lawmakers then evicted them from the building on June 1 amid violent clashes.

Violence broke out earlier in the week in Osh, when security guards opened fire on market traders demanding fair market prices. Seven people were injured in the clash, two seriously.

Some other worrying things . an Englishman, 75 years old, came out here last year and so liked the place that he decided to sell up his home in Leeds and move out here . he finally arrived in January, bought an apartment and had settled down.  Last week he was killed in his flat . the police have arrested three people.

They have also arrested some people who attacked and robbed some British tourists somewhere in Boom Gorge – the main approach to Issyk Kul from Bishkek.

One of the presidential hopefuls, Urmatbek Baryktabasov, was disbarred by the Election Commission because, apparently, he is a Kazakh citizen, and only Kyrgyz citizens can become President.  He maintains that he is a patriot for Kyrgyzstan and has given a number of interviews.

There are a number of complaints about the interim government … saying that in the time since the Tulip revolution, they have done little to help the ordinary people … and this impatience leads to protests.

This catalogue of events all sounds very bad … but it isn’t that bad.  I am sitting in my office – the sun is shining and the street outside is fairly quiet – but there are people going about their business.  It is hard to imagine that in recent times there has been so much unrest and difficulty.  I have tourists turn up at the door asking for advice about where to stay in Naryn, Karakol, Arlan Bob and so on.  There are phone calls from Naryn about everyday issues such as contracts for electricity.

Everyday life goes on much as before …

In my case, “everyday life” seems to revolve around a series of meetings – with clients; with tour operators; with other investors in Kyrgyzstan; with government officials; “round tables”, committees, workshops, forums – to
discuss a variety of issues.   In fact, there are so many meetings that I
can’t make them all and have to send someone to deputise for me.

I have been out of the office virtually all week.  Friday morning I got to the office and went through the emails before going off to yet another meeting.  This was supposed to be the presentation by Feliks Kulov of his economic programme. Some of our staff were late because they were held up by a parade, complete with brass bands along Prospect Chui, the main street.

There were a lot people walking around – but no sign of anything untoward.

Apparently there had been announcements of planned protests by Baryktabasov’s supporters and although there was a certain amount of tension in the air – it was not necessarily going to be a day much different from any other.  We made plans for the hotel – extra security, lock the gates etc., but I felt confident enough to go to the Forum.  There were quite a few people in the main square when we drove through – but they just standing around … the police presence was visible – but not excessive or overbearing.

The forum began normally – about 10 minutes late, that’s quite good for Kyrgyzstan.  Because I am President of the Kyrgyz Association of Tour Operators, I got a seat on the main platform – in the rows behind the speakers.  Under the stage lights it was quite hot – the temperature outside was about 32C – 95F – so you can imagine how I wilted.  Rosa and Aybek had seats in the body of the hall – but I could see Rosa fanning herself with her programme.

About halfway through the first session, whilst speakers were discussing the proposals put forward by Felix Kulov, he got called into the wings at the side of the stage. From where I was sitting I could see that he was involved in an intense conversation … and when he came back onto the stage he announced some “breaking news”, that some protestors had apparently managed to get into the White House and had even reached the “seventh floor” where the offices of the President, Prime Minister and other important government figures are located.  He called for a break in the proceedings so that he could consult about the situation – and we all filed out to an early coffee break – so early that it caught the catering staff by surprise and the coffee was not ready for about 15 minutes.

When we returned he announced that the situation was not clear – some people said 1000 people were gathered, some 2000, 3000 or even 5000. (One press report I have seen quoted 10,000 – but I don’t think that can be correct).
They seemed to have various reasons why they had gathered.  The White House had been cleared – the protestors evicted.  (Bakiev gave a press conference later saying that many of the people had been paid to go there – 500 or 1000 som.  Talk about “rent-a-mob”.  He even said that the events had cost about USD28000 to stage – but where that figure came from, I don’t know.)

Anyway, Parliament had been called into special session and he had to leave.

Most people left with him.  When I walked back to the hotel with Vladimir Komissarov, (another tour operator), we went through the old square at the back of the Historical Museum.  Lined up outside the Kyrgyz drama theatre were about 200 troops with riot gear … shields and truncheons, no sign of firearms.  They were just assembled there, with spectators standing around watching … no sign of any action.  I felt sorry for them having to stand there in the heat, waiting.  Still, I thought, better waiting than having to “go into battle”.

As I walked along through Panfilov Park, the few people that were there were acting as if there was nothing unusual … the “fast food” sellers were still serving, someone was singing Karaoke, there was even a family of four sleeping under one of the trees.  We could see some police inside the grounds of the White House and a number of small groups congregated at various places – but no real sign of disorder.

Back at the hotel – a quick review of our preparations … everything was normal.  Into yet another meeting: a press conference to mark the end of a tour for a group of European Tour Operators. Because of the events unfolding elsewhere there were many reporters present … but it was a good meeting.

Then, back to the office.  Once again the streets were quiet.

When I saw the TV coverage and read on the internet about the “riot” being broken up with tear gas … it was a big surprise … I saw nothing of this as I walked through the city.

I actually had a couple of hours to work on various things before going off to an evening of three meetings … one to plan further activities to help minimize the effects of recent events on the tourism industry (and you can imagine our feelings during this one), the opening of an extension to another hotel in Bishkek and a farewell for the European tour operators.

I was not very pleased to get back home to find that Roman had disappeared … several frantic phone calls and we finally found him.  “Why were we worried?”, he asked, “Everything is OK”.

Although it is questionable how the protestors managed to gain entrance to the White House, the fact that EVERY police office was called in to patrol the streets over night, and that road blocks were placed on all the access roads to the capital to protect against possible mass movements into the capital … everything is quiet and peaceful.

Of course, I could be wrong (after all I said that I didn’t really anticipate problems in the run up to the election … and look at what has happened), but it still seems to me that things are not as bad as they seem.

Bad, maybe, but not disastrous.  For example, there was no looting last night and the authorities seem determined to be firm in their response to events – but not like the Uzbek response in Andijan – they seem to have a grip on most things.  Events seem to be episodic – localized.

Several of you have written and urged me to be careful – don’t worry, I am.

Even walking through Bishkek yesterday, I did not feel threatened or in any danger … but I would have turned and walked quickly in the other direction if I had felt so.  I still keep my doors locked and bolted – especially when in the office alone, (as I am now).

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Note:

As an ex-pat living in Bishkek during the “Tulip Revolution” and witnessing the events of 24th March, 2005, Iwrote a series of messages to friends and relatives to reassure them that he was safe … and describe some of his experiences and reactions.

This is one of them.

I haven’t edited them … they are “as sent”.  They are not a comprehensive or accurate historical account of the events – but a series of observations of one person who witnessed the events unfolding and tell part of his story.   As such, they reflect the ambiguity and lack of certainty of the times, as well as the mass of rumours which circulated and the changing opinions as more and more information became available.

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