Postcard from Bishkek

As the holy month of Ramadan gets underway, I thought I would spend a moment to consider what this night mean for visitors to Kyrgyzstan.

Maybe it is because I was a teacher, but the first piece of advice for any person traveling to a country where there is a substantial Muslim population, especially during the month of Ramadan, would be to do your homework and learn the basics.  

For the month, devout Muslims all over the world undertake special observances – the most well known of which is to fast during the hours of daylight, refraining from eating and drinking.  Although there are some exceptions, fasting is compulsory (fard) for all adult believers, an obligation, and it’s actually considered to be one of the five Pillars of Islam.

As the sun sets, it is time for Iftar and the meal (sahur) to break the fast for that day … a time to share with family and friends.

There are other observances which are urged on the faithful: zakat and sadaqah – giving alms and other charitable acts; prayer, reading the Quran … and … the catch all, “abstaining from bad deeds and staying humble” – in other words to refrain from activities or behaviour which is incompatible with Islamic values (… but this should not be taken to mean that they can be indulged in the other months of the year).

Not every Muslim follows the strict prohibition on eating and drinking, smoking or even chewing gum between sunrise and sunset … and not every Muslim country or community will approach the holiday with the same attitude.  Kyrgyzstan is still, technically, a secular society, but people and more and more people are identifying themselves as more than just “nominal: Muslims and adopting dress and practices that, earlier, were rarely encountered.   As a result,  

In some Muslim countries, for example, it is actually illegal to eat or drink or smoke during the hours of daylight … even for non-Muslims … fortunately, Kyrgyzstan is not one of them!  In other countries, even though it may not be illegal, cafes and restaurants close during the daytime (and once again, fortunately, that’s not customary in Kyrgyzstan) … mind you, they may do a roaring business at Iftar … and, as I understand it there can be considerable difficulty not only in booking a table, but also in getting on public transport or finding a taxi.

Contrary to the standard stereotype of Muslims as intolerant, demanding strict observance to the rules … that’s not exactly true.  Indeed, in many ways the Prophet was remarkably tolerant of other traditions, especially to the Religions of the Book – Judaism and Christianity.  Whereas the demands made of a believer can be stringent on the believer – after all the very word Islam means “submission” and one of the basic principles of the religion is submitting oneself to the will of God.

Even in strict Muslim countries, allowances are often made for visitors … people recognize that they are not necessarily under the same obligations as a adult Muslim.  Just as in the Islamic State of Pakistan, where the consumption of alcohol is forbidden … it is possible for some hotels and other establishments to obtain a special license to serve it – to foreign non-Muslims.  Like wise, in some countries, special screens may be set up to keep Western tourists and Muslims separate.

Where problems do arise, it can be as much about not respecting local traditions and sensitivities  as breaking an actual law.

Refraining from ostentatiously eating, drinking or smoking in public will sensitivity which, in turn, be appreciated – even more so, considering that the visitor will not be under the same obligation as a local person.

Fasting during Ramadan, however, is not just about abstinence from food.  It’s not even really about abstinence – but about an intensely spiritual month, coming closer to God, purifying the soul and bringing family and friends closer together. 

Smoking and sex are also “no-go” areas …     

Likewise, avoiding loud music or dancing – indeed any form of outward shows of affection –  will also defray any potential animosity that such actions might otherwise incur.

In traditional Muslim areas, a more conservative, modest style of dress is also a good idea – at any time of the year, but especially during the Holy Month.  It’s also useful to remember that many places such as Suleiman’s Mount, Manzhily Ata and Safed Bulan (all of which are in Kyrgyzstan), may not only be considered Holy Sites but may also be an active shrine and place of worship, so showing respect should be considered de rigeur.

The next piece of advice would be to be flexible – and be prepared to change your schedule.  By all means plan ahead but remember that special arrangements may have been put in place, different working hours, during the Holy Month.

 

 

 

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