Traditional Kyrgyz costume – Men

May 20th, 2014 Sections: Costume
Blue Jeans

Blue Jeans

There seems to be a universal fascination with celebrating anniversaries … and no less so here than in the West.  All the same, I was somewhat surprised the other day to see a reference to today as the “Birthday of Blue Jeans“.

What started out as heavy duty work clothes have also served as a sign of rebellion and a fashion statement … but are now a ubiquitous item of clothing …  for people of all ages and classes.

The first patented jeans were made in America by Levi Strauss in 1850 and sold for the princely sum of 1 dollar 46 cents per pair – that’s probably the equivalent of about USD45 in today raking inflation into account … but as we are talking about two totally different worlds, then and now, such comparisons are probably meaningless.

These “jeans” were heavy, long “pants” made ​​out of canvas, with seams, reinforced double stitching … and lots of pockets.  They proved to be popular in California gold miners and the first batch quickly sold out. Strauss then set up a company, the legendary Levi Strauss & Co to make such “working clothes”.   Then, on 20th May 1873, the company was granted a patent for the exclusive right to manufacture such pants with rivets on the pockets … and that’s why this say is considered the “official birthday of jeans”.

As an aside: the famous leather label – a trademark of the firm – first appeared in 1886.  In 1926, there were jeans with a zipper “fly”.  In 1981 Levi’s first produced jeans especially designed for women. In 1995, “stretch” jeans appeared … and others using new technologies: jeans washed with pumice stones, soaked in acid, bleached … produced in different colors and patterns and using different fabrics.

Consumers, (ordinary :working people”), quickly came to appreciate both, the durability and the practicality of these new trousers.  Shortly after they started production, the company switched from gray canvas to a “new” blue fabric; an attractive and durable material called denim.  This is derived from French de Nimes - which means “from Nimes” – after the French city where it is supposed to have originated.

The Levi’s brand maintained a leading position in the market until the middle of the Twentieth Century, when new brands emerged to challenge their dominance of the market, (such as: Lee, Wrangler and Cooper.  They were to be subsequently followed by firms such as Calvin Klein, Diesel, Gap, Guess, Mustang, Polo, Tommy Hilfinger, and Zara).

Levi’s didn’t have it all their own way, however, and apart from trading on their name, Levi’s jeans were known for their quality and were recognized as a “top end” product – made from natural ingredients and, as a result, were relatively expensive.  As early as in 1878 the German chemist Adolf von Baeyer, invented a synthetic substitute for indigo, which greatly reduced the cost of jeans.  

Today, Jeans are as popular in Kyrgyzstan  as in the West … but, what would the “well dressed” Kyrgyz have worn before … ?  

An aksakal in traditional costume

Loose shirts and wide trousers – covered with a “dressing gown” – were the typical forms of dress for Kyrgyz males.

Perhaps the most distinctive feature was the “chapan” – a “coat”, or tunic, that looks like a sort of padded “dressing gown”. There was large variety of men’s “coats” (it used to be considered as indecent to go outside without one), and the “chapan” was only one type. In addition, there were also the “chepken“, “ton” and “ichik“. The “ichik” was a fur coat – and could be made from the skins of otters, fox, sheep, and wolves – and were mainly without collars. (Women also wore the ichik). Such a coat was considered “holiday attire” – a sort of “Sunday Best” – and therefore was not often worn.

Kyrgyz in traditional costume

Northern cattle-breeders used to wear a felt cloak, (a “kementai”), and later on the Kyrgyz from the southern part of the Osh region also wore them.

Traditionally men wore an open shirt (called a “jegde“) of white, coarse, calico which was worn over wide trousers and stretched down to below the knees; the sleeves were also long, and covered the hands; there was an open collar that tapered to the chest, and the whole thing was fastened by a button or laces. The jegde was worn by both boys and men – starting from an age of 6 or 7 years old and the style didn’t change as the boy grew into a man. Such clothes are still worn by some of the older generation.

A shirt with a cut collar, (measuring some 30-35cm, in a triangular shape – called an “uzun jaka“), became popular amongst the Kyrgyz, and other peoples of the Ferghana valley, in the twentieth century.  This shirt was shorter, reaching down only to the thigh, rather than to below the knees. At the same time shirts with similar cuts, but with collars fastened with buttons, also became popular.

“Dambal” was a typical Central Asian style of trousers. The cut would depend upon the type of material being used, but all the trousers were wide and tightened by interlacing wool – “gashnik“.  The edges were decorated by bright and colourful patterned wool and with multicoloured tassels.  The Northern Kyrgyz had similar wide trousers, but winter trousers, (“taar shym” and “piyaz shym“), were fur-lined on the inside. They would be worn over the shoes. A distinguishing feature of these wide trousers is that they were sewn with coloured silk and often embroidered with traditional patterns.  Trousers made from suede were also sometimes worn and were a sign of prosperity.

A “compulsory component” of the costume was a belt, which was fastened over overcoat. The most popular of them was called “kushak” or “belboo”. In southern areas scarves were used for this purpose. Rich people, on the other hand, had wide leather belts trimmed by silver ornaments, with a massive buckle, reminiscent of ancient Turkic belts.

There were several different types of footwear.  The “chokoy” and “payshek” were worn by the poor.  The first of these were fashioned from a single piece of animal skin and would reach up to the knees, whereas the second was like a sandal – a leather sole with a thong which was tied around the ankle.  “Charik” were worn by the more affluent – and were made from the tanned horse or ox leather.
 
 
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