Postcard from Bishkek

In answer to a question from a Western journalist the other day, I answered that one of the main problems facing those of us who work in tourism in Kyrgyzstan is deciding which form of tourism to promote:

• Recreational Tourism – Sun, Sand and Sea … well, Lake … mainly centered around the resorts on the shores of Lake Issyk Kul;
• Adventure Tourism – involving activities like mountaineering, trekking, cycling, white water rafting … and, of course, horse riding;
• Cultural Tourism – concentrating on history, such as travelling along the Great Silk Road, or exploring aspects of the traditional nomadic lifestyle of the Kyrgyz;
• Business Tourism – MICE, (Motivational, Incentives, Conferences and Exhibitions) …

She took me up on these with her supplementary questions, delving into more detail about what potential was available and what we, in the Celestial Mountains Tour Company offered out clients.  Of course, there wasn’t time to go into great detail about all of them – but I tried to give a flavour of the possibilities by outlining some of the options when it comes to Activity holidays … and in particular, Horse riding.

The Kyrgyz have a saying that “A horse is a man’s wings“.

The horse is a major feature of traditional nomadic Kyrgyz culture.  Young boys learn to ride almost as soon as they can walk.  It is not surprising, therefore, that horse riding tours, or itineraries with opportunities for some horse riding are popular.

Indeed, as Rowan Stewart says in the Odyssey Guide to Kyrgyzstan: “The best way to glimpse Kyrgyzstan from the locals’ perspective is on horseback.”

It is possible to organize horse riding in a number of locations around the country.  The range of possibilities is so great that it is often difficult to choose one over another.  The choice can depend on a number of factors: the time available, the level of difficulty; the experience of the riders or the other interests of the group.

Not only does a horseback trip give the opportunity to experience the magnificent landscapes of the wild countryside, and to escape from the crowds that inhabit the sprawling modern cities and popular resorts, but the leisurely pace of travel will also enable the traveler to experience what travel along the ancient Silk Road must have been like many centuries ago – to get a feel for “the authentic Silk Road” or to follow in the footsteps, (or hoofprints), of more recent travelers such as the Russian explorers Semyenov and Prezhervalsk or The Swiss journalist Ella Maillart.

Although it is possible to decide on the spot to take a horse for a couple of hours from one of the yurt camps – usually, (and certainly for anything longer), it really needs to be arranged in advance.

 

A horseback trip can last anything from a couple of hours, for example:

• in one of the valleys south of Bishkek such as the Shamsy Gorge, or
• around a yurt camp in Son-Kol or
• Tash Rabat

to several days, for example:

• from Shamsy across the Kyrgyz Range and up to the high mountain lake of Son Kul, or
• from Lake Issyk Kul across the Terskey Ala Too mountain range towards Naryn; or
• from Kazarman up to the petroglyphs of Saimaluu Tash; or
• in the remote regions of Batken; or
• from Talas to Lake Sary Chelek.

On our website, (www.tours.kg), we give four example itineraries – a one day trip, and three that last 6-8 days … for the experienced horse rider, longer trips are possible.  Here is one of them … it’s not a particularly demanding itinerary …  although it is a seven day trip, only there are only three days actually involve horse riding:

Horse riding trip in mountains near Tosor and Tamga villages   Duration: 7 days Duration of horse back riding: 3 days Season: April-November Route: Tamga gorge-Tosor gorge Recommended list of private things for tour: warm clothes, wind stopper and  waterproof jacket, sunglasses, sun block cream (SPF 20-30), sun hat, gloves, sleeping bag and mattress.   Program: Day 1. Airport- Bishkek Arrival to Bishkek. Meet the guide and driver at the airport. Transfer to the hotel. Rest. City tour around Bishkek. Overnight at the hotel. Bishkek is a rapidly growing city.  About 10 years ago the population was about 700,000, at the turn of the century – about a million, but at the end of 2004 it was announced that the population had reached 2 million.  As such it forms the most densely populated part of this mountainous country.  Major nationalities represented include:- Kyrgyz, Russians, Dungan Chinese, Tartars, Ukrainians, Uighurs, Uzbeks, and Germans.   Day 2. Bishkek- Tamga transfer After breakfast drive to the southern shore of  Issyk-Kul. Visit Burana Tower on the way. Upon arrival- rest, walk to the lake. Overnight at the guest house. Burana tower is all that remains of the ancient city of Balasugan set at the foot of the Shamshy valley. With Kashgar, Balasagyn was one of the capitals of the Eastern Khanate when the Karakhanid state split up.  (The capital of the Western Khanate was Samarkand).  It was spared from destruction by Genghis Khan’s Mongols, and renamed Gobalik (=”good city”) in the 13th century, but it lost its importance and had disappeared by the 15th century.   Day 3. Tamga gorge After breakfast – preparations for the trip and start from the beginning of Tamga gorge. Ride to Tien-Shan fir forest in Chegedek gorge (translated as fir’s branch). On the way stop at Tamga-Tash stone (ancient historical monument of buddhistic culture) and having lunch there.  Overnight in tent camp on the bank of Chegedek river. (BLD) Altitudes during the day (above sea level): Chegedek gorge-2500-2800m   Day 4. Tosor gorge Ride to high-mountainous plateau Altyn-Kungey. You may see beautiful panorama of Issyk-Kul lake from the plateau. Ride to Bugumyuz gorge (Tosor gorge).  Overnight in tent camp among fir forest.  (BLD) Altitudes during the day (above sea level): Altyn-Kungey plateau – from 3000m to 3500m, overnight at 2500m.   Day 5. Tamga village Ride over Uzunkyr mountains toward Issyk-Kul lake. Return to Tamga. Accommodation in guesthouse. Altitudes during the day (above sea level): Tamga-1685м   Day 6. Tamga- Bishkek After breakfast drive back to Bishkek. Accommodation at the hotel.   Day 7. Bishkek- airport transfer

 

Tips:

• Most of the horses used for tours in rural regions are “working horses” –  the local people use them for traveling when looking after their livestock in the mountain jailoos (high mountain meadows).  They are hardy, wiry animals that are ideally suited to the terrain and altitude … sure footed but quite different from stabled horses likely to be encountered in the West.
• Usually tourists will not be given boisterous or unruly horses to ride, but it is best, (especially for the novice or less experienced rider), to express any concerns about their mount as early as possible.
• Take time to become acquainted with your mount.
• Tackle and equipment: Saddles and other equipment may be fairly basic.
• Helmets: It is advisable to bring a helmet with you. Although some may be available, they are not standard and, anyway, riders will probably feel more comfortable with their own.
• Insurance: Please make sure that your travel insurance covers you for horse riding.

 

Tags: Celestial_Mountains, Kyrgyzstan, Tourism