Russian and Nomad
Russian and Nomad
I have recently finished reading an interesting book: Russian and Nomad, by Edward Nelson Fell.
To be absolutely honest, it was all a mistake … the subtitle which had attracted my attention was Tales of the Kirghiz Steppes.
I thought I was getting a book about Russian expansion into Central Asia, and indeed I was … but whereas I thought I would be reading about the Russian pioneers, settling the land now known as Kyrgyzstan, I was mistaken.
Frankly, I should have known better … if the spelling of Kirghiz, (as opposed to the modern Kyrgyz), hadn’t given the game away, then the mention of the Steppes should have done so.
For the record: The modern “Kyrgyz” is a transliteration of “Кыргыз”, the name written in Kyrgyz using the Cyrillic alphabet. However, traditional Russian grammar forbids the use of Ы (“y”) following a K or G … replacing it with the softer И, (“i” – as in Киргиз). So, when we see the word Kyrgyz, it is clear that we are using it in a modern Kyrgyz sense, whereas when we see Kirghiz then it is usually in an older, specifically Russian context.
Historically, the word Kirghiz was used by the Russians, (and hence also came to us in Western Europe), to refer to the people that we now call the Kazakhs … the people whom we know call the Kyrgyz were recognized as a different people and were called the Kara Kirghiz, (Black Kyrgyz), in order to distinguish them from their relatives.
Both the Kyrgyz and Kara Kirghiz were nomads. Whereas one group, (the Kirghiz – or Kazakhs), were the nomads that wandered the Steppes, the others, (the Kara Kirghiz – or Kyrgyz), wandered in the mountains of the Tien Shan range.
In 1902, Fell was employed as part of team of expats to run the operations of a London based mining company which had purchased some copper mines, coal mines and smelting works located on the Kazakh Steppes, near the headwaters of the Ishim River – about 200 miles north of Lake Balkash. The book contains 13 chapters, each one telling a story and outlining an experience of coming to terms with the strange world, the people they meet: Kirghiz carriers, miners and labourers … and officials, Russian mechanics, engineers, superintendents, accountants … and officials; together with accounts of the way of life, bureaucracy, customs and practices.
- There is an account of making the purchase of a mine … and having to cope with the labyrinthine procedures involved … not just of making and registering the purchase – but of negotiating a meal;
- The problems of cash flow and taking out a loan, Central Asian style – not to mention dealing with a little slight of hand;
- Handling an industrial dispute,
- Attending church;
- The techniques of accounting … abacus and all;
- Taking an excursion;
- Accompanying a traditional Hunt … where an eagle sinks its talons into a variety of prey including a wolf;
Russian and Nomad was first published in 1916 but has been through a number of different editions, the latest being published in 2010.
I did enjoy the book very much and would highly recommend it … although I can see that it is not going to be to everyone’s taste, being about a different world – in terms of both time and space.
I also have to admit that, probably, one of the reasons that I enjoyed the book, is because I found it so easy to identify with individuals and incidents contained in the book … I too have been dumbfounded when faced with accountant’s skill and dexterity when sending beads whizzing backwards and forwards along wires … I have also swayed under the hypnotic influence of the singing in a service … I understand how you plan for something like a fabulous feast at a luxurious venue only to arrive and be told – “tomorrow!” … and so on.
Bishkek