Postcard from Bishkek

This was begun on Friday evening – but completed and sent on the Saturday morning.

I want to thank everyone who has written to me, either in response to a postcard, or directly, expressing concern over the situation here. I hope you will understand if it takes a while to catch up with individual replies … and I continue with a general letter.  In it I try to answer as many as possible of the questions I have received from different people.  As a result, it’s a little long.  Sorry, (but I always was verbose).

Just a few personal comments …
Alison, I am delighted about your news – congratulations.
Andrei, I am sorry this isn’t in Russian – but I am sure you will understand it.
Mark, Max, Maurice – I’ve updated your email addresses.

Friday, March 25, 2005.  Good Friday.  It’s has been a beautiful Spring day.  The sun was shining, it was bright and warm, buds on the trees, new grass shooting up from the ground.  It should have been an ideal scene.

Here in Bishkek, however, there is shock and an atmosphere of tension still pervades here in downtown Bishkek.  As the day unfolded we heard more news of the previous night’s events.  Several of the reporters from the foreign press had caught on film examples of the looting.  It emerged that three people had died – one a security guard at Beta Stores – another a woman outside the supermarket, and the third apparently fell from the third floor of another trade center.  CNN is currently reporting a fourth deaths – and 120 injured.  One more death has been reported overnight.

The morning appeared fairly quiet … there were crowds standing on almost every street corner – just watching, waiting.  Many people, however, went about their normal routine.  Everyone came into the office … Larissa said that it was much better to be here than sitting at home, moping.  She confesses to having nightmares over the events.  “Better to keep yourself busy”, she said.

Nadia, Tatiana, Lisa and Bakit all reported finding brand new shoes strewn around the streets – always just one of a pair … what happened to the second is anyone’s guess.  On the corner of Kievskaya and Manas, (outside a shoe shop), was a pile of empty shoe boxes.  Bakit told how during the night he had seen one of the Turkish managers of Beta Stores standing in the street watching people walk past him on his right and his left carrying goods which had been looted from the shop.  It was too much for him …  he burst into tears.

For some of us, (those that still had work, presumably), life went on … there was the cleaning up … some shops were working, (the banks weren’t) … I even got a phone call from the Ministry answering a letter I sent them last week.  Two engineers came and turned off the central heating.

Roman and Bakit went to buy fresh provisions for the hotel.  Meat, milk, bread … that sort of thing.  (Fortunately we had already stocked up on things like flour, rice, tins and frozen produce.  We might have trouble finding supplies in the near future.)  They reported on the series of broken windows and empty shops.  In one place there were two shops, side by side.  One stood intact, untouched, but the other had been ransacked and was totally gutted.  The opposition press had, apparently, recently run a story claiming that it belonged to the Akaev’s.

Some of the shops have messages written on their windows – “We are with the people” – they don’t seem to have been touched.  What a surprise!  In others, the staff were wearing red armbands – but I am not sure what the significance of that might be.

At Dordoi, Central Asia’s biggest market, about 3,000 people were blocking every entrance with wooden clubs. They said that they intended to stay there day and night until the situation in the city calms down.  ”We are not interested in politics and we do not care who is president. We want our security and stability to allow us to do our business,” one of them is reported to have said.  Actually, I think that is probably true for most of the population … earning a living always seems to have been the major issue here.

I went down to the hotel and spoke to some of the staff and some of the guests.  We had one waiting desperately for a room … alternating between reception and the restaurant … but we were full, (there’s a silver lining to every cloud, I suppose). And then suddenly there was a cancellation ….

Apparently the Hyatt, which is on Sovietskaya, one of the main streets, has so far, more or less, escaped attention – although they’ve had some windows broken, and there is a large crowd that has amassed there.  I understand that the atmosphere is still quite tense.

Unfortunately most of the information we have is simply rumours: of masses of people approaching the city from Belevodsk to the West and from Dordoi to the North; of a curfew (which would be a good idea – but Felix Kulov has apparently said that the authorities probably couldn’t enforce it before tomorrow), Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan have closed the border (true – at least a partial closure),  Askar Akaev is in Russia, or is Kazakhstan?, or still in Kyrgyzstan (on the Russian airbase?)?,  he has resigned, or hasn’t? … the water is about to be cut off (so we’ve drawn off a supply) … and so on.

One thing that is not rumour … I saw it with my own eyes … huge crowds wandering through the burnt out carcass of what was Beta Stores … they were removing whatever hadn’t been taken overnight – including parts of the central heating.  A safe had been dropped from a window on the fifth floor – papers were strewn al over the place.  It will be a long time before that store will reopen – if it ever does.

Then, just after midday we had visitors from another tour company … we exchanged pleasantries … and offered each other support if necessary.  As we stood outside the office we heard shots and saw people running away from Beta Stores.  They climbed over the fence at the back of our building running to escape.  We retreated inside and locked the doors.  Tatiana and Lisa had gone to see if they could do some shopping and a little while later Lisa reappeared – alone.   “Where is Tatiana?”, I asked.  “She’s gone to see who was doing the shooting”, was the reply.  It reminded me of an essay I was once set in English when I was at school – “What is the difference between bravery and foolhardiness?” We had strong words ready for her when Tatiana eventually returned.

I sent everyone home early from the office.

Bakit has gone home to his parents home with his wife and youngest daughter,  I wish I could claim that he had taken my advice – but apparently his mother rang from New Zealand, (where she is staying with Tony and Damira and told him to go.  (Thank you Elena Amanbekovna, that is one worry less on my mind!).

The UN has also sent people home … a convoy left for Almaty at about 5:00pm last night … the European Bank, the World Bank, and many other international organizations … the Americans and the Japanese embassies have advised people to sit still, stay home, keep a low profile and keep away from crowds.  That seems to be the advice of the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office as well.   That’s what we are doing.  Roma, Yana and I sat at home, with the lights off and watching the TV.

Then evening drew in … and brought with it strong winds and rain … thank goodness for that ,,, its helped to dampen things down …  in more ways than one.

The street lights went off … the weather was bad … appeals for calm … possibly a curfew … possibility of police action … fatigue .. all this seems to be combine together to impose some sort of peace – long may it last.

More details about Thursday’s events have been emerging. For example, the stories of Tsum being ransacked in the same way as other shops, like Beta, turn out to be not true – some windows were broken but the store was defended by a combination of security guards, trader protecting their holdings and a group of locals who linked arms and circled the building.

There were more shots fired overnight … down by Manas, a block away from my flat.  Apparently a group of about 15 youths tried to break into one building and were chased by security and dogs … they ran down Kievskaya, past our building and straight into a police contingent who fired into the air ….so they turned and ran back … Thank goodness my flat faces the yard at the back of the building – not the street.

There were also some accounts also of some fireworks set off as a “salute” but I didn’t see any signs of that only heard the “cracks” and “bangs”.

It is now Saturday morning – cold and wet – I’ve been down to the hotel and everything outside is very quiet and subdued … a hopeful sign?

Apparently, President Putin has said that he is not surprised by developments … but hopes to work with Kyrgyzstan to maintain good relationships.  He has denounced the “illegal” takeover and has offered asylum to the Akaevs.  Nazarbaev, in neighbouring Kazakhstan, thinks the events were the result of rampant poverty (which is probably true) and weak leadership (could this be a warning to his own opposition?). This doesn’t seem to amount to wholehearted support for the ousted Akaev regime.  America and China seem to be issuing calls for calm – but I haven’t seen any formal recognition of the “new” regime, so far.

Bakiev has nominated a new government for the parliament to approve – some of the names are familiar – but not all – interestingly, there is no Minister for Tourism.  Is that a sign of things to come?

Our staff have been brilliant – only one person has stayed away … but he phoned and explained … the main road into town was blocked by about 1500 people … in a very angry mood … so I suppose he had a good excuse.  Not only have people come into work –  they’ve worked long hours – made special efforts to help the clients … A number of them have phoned to ask about me, personally, concerned about my safety.   Some of them have volunteered to come in an work extra shifts, just to help out …

Only one person out of fifty could be said to have let us down … and that in very difficult circumstances … and he probably had a reasonable excuse.

I keep saying to everyone … Tourism and Hospitality is a Service industry … and the staff are vital … their attitude can make or break us.  I am SO impressed with their efforts and their loyalty.  I feel that all our investment in them is being repaid in trumps.

I’ve written a personal letter of thanks to everyone who worked through the ”difficult” period from the moment of the storming of the White house.

I still have some concerns.  Amongst them:

The first, of course, is what happens if things don’t settle down.  If the “new government” cannot assert its authority on the streets ,,, then not only is there the obvious danger from the “mob”, but there is also the threat of intervention.  None of our neighbours will want an unstable situation on their borders – and may use civil disorder as an excuse for taking action.

On the other hand … none of them will welcome a “smooth handover” – it will set a bad example for their own opposition.

Then, apparently, Askar Akaev has issued a statement saying that his removal from power is unconstitutional – i.e. he is still president and he “will be back”.  (I thought the “Terminator” was Governor of California, not President of the Kyrgyz Republic.)  So, is he really planning on trying to try and stage a comeback?  Or at least to disrupt the situation?   If he issued an appeal for assistance – as the “legitimate” Head of State – would anyone come to his aid?  Who? and What would be the effect?

I also anticipate greater attention from the tax authorities.  With so many businesses ruined, there will be less revenue from the budget.  They will need money – and I am sure the inspectors will be under pressure to find it – somehow.  I am not sure that our record and transparency will protect us.

Perhaps the most important in the long term: Can the new government deliver?  I worry about this because the Kyrgyz have their hopes raised once more.  They were raised with the introduction of the free market economy, (unfortunately no-one told them that this would mean factories closing and unemployment.(  They were raised with the development of gold mines, (which have made a difference – the country’s economic statistics are always quoted in two forms: with and without the Kumtor gold mine.- and the difference is striking).  They thought they had found oil (but the deposits are small – miniscule really – and won’t make Kyrgyzstan a “second Kuwait” as the headlines declared at the time).  Tourism was going to be the saviour of the economy, (but although a lot of effort is being made – much it needs a lot more than just high hopes).  And now this …

The press coverage hasn’t been bad … at least, I am quite impressed with the “on the spot reporting”, which seems to reflect what is going quite well.

I am more concerned about some of the studio analysis and presentation.

For example:  One report on the BBC that surprised me … “the situation is STILL unstable ….”.  this was only about 24 hours after the storming of the Whit House.  Hey, everyone here – INCLUDING the international press – is amazed at how quickly everything changed yesterday … in the morning it was SOOOO quiet … then suddenly … !!!!  How long did the “velvet revolutions” take in Georgia?, in Ukraine?, how long did the Notting Hill Riots last?,  Wood Green? Leeds? …  Tiannaman Square?   We live in an age of computer fames and seem to have become so used to “instant solutions”,,, why do they think that it will be that easy to restore order?

Then there us the Australian anchorman based in Hong Kong for CNN is so annoying!!!!  Not only can he not say Kyrgyz – he says Kyrgy – he can’t seem to cope with any names.  On the other hand … he’s not the only one who can’t pronounce Akaev – and he did have the courtesy to apologize to Roza Otunbaeva for stumbling over her surname.  But he did confuse the words “Christmas” and “Christians”.  (I am sure it will come as a surprise to most Christmases that they celebrate the birth of Jesus at “Christian”).

Incidentally, the BBC website has a map of Bishkek.  On it, they’ve marked the position of the main square, the historical museum, the statue of Lenin and the Government House – of which three are in the wrong place!  You can take your pick which is the correct one – for my money it is the Historical Museum … the one that is DEFINITELY wrong is the location of the White house – which is where all the action took place!!!  So much for the standard of journalism!

I said earlier that people are in shock.  Several people have told me things like this have never happened here before.  Perhaps the older people have forgotten the riots that occurred in 1967 when the central market was on the site now occupied by Victory Park.  A group of policemen on patrol stopped and beat unconscious a drunken soldier.  Shoppers, believing the soldier to be dead turned upon the police, encircling them – and a riot ensued.  The city’s main police headquarters were actually stormed and ransacked, and others were attacked.  Patrolmen were dragged from their cars.  A mass demonstration led to a march on the KGB headquarters, which ha to be broken up by troops.

Also, they’ve forgotten the events in Osh in 1990 – when a state of emergency is imposed after several hundred people were killed in interethnic clashes between Uzbeks and Kyrgyz over access to land and housing around the town of Osh, near border with Uzbekistan.

One young man asked why this sort of thing only ever seemed to happen in developing countries.  He was surprised when I said that riots happen all over the world … that we’ve had riots in London, and elsewhere.  “But not like this?”, he asked me.  “Well, it is true that we don’t make a habit of storming the seat of government … but the hunt supporters managed to breach security and burst into parliament not so long ago … and the Spanish parliament was stormed by a colonel of the National Guard, and … so on.  Riots where looting takes place and criminal damage is widespread do happen.

Having said that, generally the Kyrgyz are a fairly easy going people … and what we are seeing does seem out of step with their normal character.  Many of the instigators of yesterday’s events do seem to be from out of town … many of the people storming shops and looting appeared to youths … “out for a good time”, and/or “under the influence” and/or “gangsters” (that’s not my word) and/or just plain “opportunists”.  Let’s hope that the police can reassert their authority and re-impose order.

I am not depressed.  Nor am I, actually, that worried.  Yes, I am concerned – but mainly by the fact that everything is unpredictable.  How is everything going to develop?, Where are we going to find supplies for the hotels, etc. over the next few weeks?, What will be the effect on occupancy and tourism?

As for my personal safety – I am not taking any risks.

I have known for a long time something could happen – and that if it does, there is not that much that I can do about it.  I do what I can … We have grills on all the windows, one on the stairs, good locks on all the doors, the office is alarmed, I don’t keep valuables at home or in the office, I am not going out, and so on … but all this would mean nothing if someone really wanted to get me.   However, one of our strengths is that we try to do everything properly, by the book.  We show that it IS possible to do business here, and make a success of it. If anything happens to us, it will send a signal to all investors in the republic.  So far, everyone has been really pleased to see us, and willing to help us.  Long may that last.

I am more concerned with the possibility of being caught up in something incidentally – as a bystander.  Almost, by accident as it were.

The British Foreign and Commonwealth Office have issued a travel warning – recommending that, for the time being, people don’t travel to Kyrgyzstan if they don’t have “essential business” here.  For those who are here already, they recommend keeping a “low profile” and avoid crowds … I am doing exactly that.

There’s a saying that is supposed to be an old Chinese curse – actually, according to Alistair Cooke, (one of my “heroes”), it was invented by Robert Kennedy: “May you live in interesting times”.   Well, someone, sometime, cursed me because I am certainly living in an interesting time.  And an interesting place.

As I said, I am not depressed, nor unduly worried. I am concerned, however, about what the future will bring. I am still optimistic and see considerable potential.

To be honest – I am probably more likely to suffer injury separating the cats when they decide to have a cat fight!  (I am typing this with blood dripping from my right hand at the moment = trying to make sure it doesn’t fall on the keyboard).

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Note:

As an ex-pat living in Bishkek during the “Tulip Revolution” and witnessing the events of 24th March, 2005, Iwrote a series of messages to friends and relatives to reassure them that he was safe … and describe some of his experiences and reactions.

This is one of them.

I haven’t edited them … they are “as sent”.  They are not a comprehensive or accurate historical account of the events – but a series of observations of one person who witnessed the events unfolding and tell part of his story.   As such, they reflect the ambiguity and lack of certainty of the times, as well as the mass of rumours which circulated and the changing opinions as more and more information became available.

Tags: History, Interesting_Times, Tulip_Revolution