Fortuna Jazz Club
Fortuna Jazz Club - a new venue
On Saturday evening I ventured forth to the Fortuna Cafe, (which used to be known as the Alabama Cafe).
Although I have been there several times before, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. I know that they have done some renovations and have been holding a number of special events, but this was the first night of their new venture: the Fortuna Jazz Club.
Now I can’t claim a real afficiando of Jazz, but I “know what I like” and do find it interesting so I decided to go and see what it was like.
I had been told that the opening would be at six o’clock … and was running late due to a small crisis at home and then losing my telephone, spending twenty minutes looking for it. Then I happened to choose the wrong taxi; there was nothing really wrong with it, just that the driver really had no idea where to go and had to ring the head office for directions … which all took time. Still we made it and I rushed in breathless expecting to be met by a wall of sound.
I needn’t have worried of course. This is, after all, Central Asia where clocks and watches often appear to be mere items of jewelry rather than something which dictates your actions. Although most of the musicians were in place, apparently some still had to arrive … which was just as well because most of the audience were running a lot later than I was.
As it happened, it matter too much because it gave everyone plenty of time to chat and get to know each other; that is, if they didn’t already, although it seemed to me that most people seemed to have than just a nodding acquaintance with each other.
I was on my own, which could have been a bit awkward as there were tables set for four people, six and eight. (It’s a cafe, after all, and not a concert hall). Everyone was very friendly, however, and I certainly didn’t feel out of it as several people struck up a conversation with me.
It was a small room, just six tables with seating for about thirty, but well lit and not the sort of smoke filled dark room that old black and white movies might have led me to expect. It also seemed somewhat cozy … friendly without being “too intimate” or imposing.
Bishkek is quite well endowed when it comes to jazz musicians and performing in the sets were musicians from two of the country’s, (no, they are generally held to be Central Asia’s), best Jazz groups: Salted Peanuts and JazzOK. There were a saxophonist, pianists, drummers, guitarists and a couple of vocalists.
Now, according to the saxophonist Ahmad Alaadeen, “Jazz does not belong to one race or culture, but is a gift that America has given the world.” That may be, but this particular gift is not universally admired. Although I thought about taking the kids, I can’t see them exactly reveling in an evening of Jazz; Andrei likes Rock and Maxim prefers easy listening, softer music.
What’s more, Jazz is a constantly evolving genre and there are lots of different types of Jazz. The music on offer this night was a mix; not what you might call “heavy” or pure jazz, but easy listening. Unlike in most of the venues I have been to in Bishkek, it wasn’t too loud and didn’t interfere with the conversation. Although the programme was quite varied, I couldn’t help comparing it to an evening of Dave Brubeck, where the music can can be enjoyed but is not oppressive.
One of the guitarists was certainly enjoying his solos, judging by his facial expressions; rapt in concentration, involved with and enthralled by the various cadences, (the balanced rhythmic flow), filling the room. The one complaint I might have is that it was sometimes difficult to hear the lyrics that the vocalist was singing, but if it had been any louder then it might well have interfered with the general atmosphere, so it wasn’t a crucial disadvantage.
All in all, I had a pleasant evening. I’ll certainly go again, but I am not sure that I will make every night. They are planning five nights of Jazz a week, (Tuesday to Saturday), but I might well go on a Sunday night when they are planning to hold Rock Evenings.
Maybe Andrei will join me.
Bishkek