Grechka
The photograph as posted on Facebook
A short while ago I saw a photograph posted by one of my “friends” on Facebook … it was of a meal his wife had prepared for him: a piece of chicken in sauce, broccoli, cauliflower, carrots and grechka.
My first reaction was “ugggh!”. As a child I had hated broccoli and cauliflower and I only grew to like them once I had entered adulthood and started cooking for myself, but it wasn’t those that caused the instantaneous negative reaction … it was the grechka.
If you are confused, then I had better explain that “grechka” is the name by which it is known here. In the West it is better known as Buckwheat. I don’t think I have ever seen it in the UK, yet alone cooked it and I don’t think I had ever eaten it until I came here – at least, not knowingly.
Buckwheat is a bit of a misnomer as it is not related to wheat at all, which is a cereal or grass. Buckwheat is related to sorrel and rhubarb. It has, however been, cultivated as a “pseudo cereal”, although cultivation has declined considerably over the last century, especially in more affluent areas of the world. The name is thought to have been derived from “beech wheat” which may be a reference to its triangular seeds, which resemble those of the beech tree, and the fact that it is used in cuisine as a wheat substitute.
is thought to have originated in China where wild forms are common in Yunnan. There are also wild varieties found in Tatary, an old synonym for Central Asia. It is thought to have been first cultivated in south east Asia as long ago as 6000BC and then to have spread to Tibet and Central Asia.
Amongst the advantages of the crop are the fact it is fast growing and thrives on poor soils, (low fertility or acidic), but the ground needs to be well drained and too much fertilizer, (especially nitrogen), can reduce yields. It also needs to be sown late in the season in hot climates as it blooms in colder weather. This fact and the short growing season make it suitable to be used as a second crop.
It was widely grown in Russia and Asia but also spread to Europe, (France once had the world’s second largest acreage under cultivation), and the Americas, (both George Washington and Thomas Jefferson recognized the value of Buckwheat to their crop rotation and grew it). Its cultivation has declined considerably during the twentieth century, to a large extent due to the modern use of fertilizer, (especially nitrogen which produces good results when applied to maize and wheat). There was a resurgence, however, in the States in the 1970’s as a result of increased demand for certain types of breakfast cereals and for export. It is still cultivated in Kyrgyzstan which is one of the top twenty five or so producers in the world.
It is said to be an extremely useful and versatile crop. Not only can the seeds can be used as a wheat substitute in some cases, (good for making porridge, (kasha), noodles and pancakes, (blinis) and as a thickener for soups and sauces), but can also be used as a rice substitute, the nectar from the flowers (which are fragrant and attractive to bees), makes a dark coloured honey, it can be used as ground cover for the control of erosion, a “green manure” and as a constituent in feed for livestock. It is even used as a stuffing in upholstery.
To be used in cooking the outer hull of the seeds needs to be removed which requires special milling equipment, due to its triangular shape. It is usually sold as raw, but sometimes as “roasted buckwheat”, although here I think I have only seen raw buckwheat.
The colour varies from a reddish pink to brown, and when cooked it often appears pale.
It needs to be kept in a cool and dry environment – and in good conditions whole buckwheat can be stored for up to a year, and the flour can stay fresh for several months.
One of the main advantages is that Buckwheat contains no gluten, (a protein found in cereals), and so can be eaten by people who have celiac disease or gluten allergies. Apparently, it is also being used as a substitute for other grains such, as barley, for brewing gluten-free beer.
There are other healthy attributes that are constantly being quoted at me by people here who seem to love the stuff … it is said to be good for the circulation, (especially for those who suffer from high blood pressure; binds cholesterol and it is useful in the treatment and management of certain forms of diabetes, producing better blood sugar control. It can also be used as a laxative and is said to help prevent gallstones. I have even seen claims that it can help to prevent certain types of cancer.
For the record: There is, however, the possibility that someone may have an allergy to buckwheat which can result in a skin rash.
If Buckwheat is so good for you, then it might be wondered why my reaction to the photograph on Facebook was so negative.
Here in the office, people have got used to the fact that I am not particularly partial to grechka and they think it is odd. It is very popular here. The kids and some of our staff “love it” and don’t understand why I don’t. I simply respond by pointing out that it’s a matter of taste and the roles are reversed when it comes to Marmite.
Although I am not fond of it, I don’t think I wouldn’t go as far as the guests who wrote in the comments book in one of out hotels that we should “never serve it again, it’s disgusting”. Neither would I agree with the author of the website about gluten free cooking at about.com … who says, “this GF food tastes great”. Although I am happy to eat grechka as a garnish I find that it lacks taste and is usually served dry. Also, when it served, it is not simply a garnish but is served in bulk, in the same way as rice and pasta is often served in bulk as the main ingredient of a dish, with just a little meat or sauce. As a result I prefer to pour some sauce over it to give it both taste and consistency – and only eat a small amount of the portion on the plate.
Bishkek