Postcard from Bishkek

On June 4th, 1983, a new Bazaar opened in Bishkek.

It was to be the main Town Bazaar, replacing the one that was demolished to make way for Park Pobeda To the East of the City Center.

It has been described as a “must see” tourist attraction in Bishkek – but, personally, I think that depends on the tourist.  Although I am happy to wander through a local market – it’s not what I would normally count as a “highlight” of a tour.

Osh  Bazaar may not be one of Central Asia’s most colourful markets, but it is vibrant and lively … and the largest market in Bishkek, (if, that is, you don’t count Dordoi on the Northern outskirts of the city).  The Central area which is mainly open air – although covered so that it can still be used in the dead of winter, is connected to several specially built market halls spread over the surrounding blocks … a rambling maze of alleyways that are suitable for taking a “ramble”.    

Although a trip to the bazaar features on most City Tours, it is still mainly a “local bazaar” and foreigners are distinctly in a minority of the thousands of people who frequent the market every day … and it does give a chance for visitors to see a little of everyday life of the locals.     

The market is divided into different sections selling food and produce, with special halls for the sale of Dairy products and another houses the “meat hall” (although the squeamish might want to give that one a miss …) and market halls nearby selling clothes, household objects, hardware and all sorts of other products.

 

In one there is a shop selling fabrics and, Kyyal, (which is Kyrgyz for Fantasy or Dream), a shop which specializes in Kyrgyz crafts such as shyrdaks and other felt objects.  Although some tourists do come here to shop for craft souvenirs rather than shop in the city’s souvenir shops, the shop caters more for locals and as a wholesaler.

There is even a small pet market in the area to the south of the food market which is held on Sundays …

Traffic in the area around the bazaar can snarl to a halt, especially at busy times, and this has been a source of considerable controversy as the city authorities have attempted to renovate the area.

Apart from the main open areas – such as the covered (open air) Fruit and Veg section – the stalls are arranged along narrow passageways … and if you stray from the main open area it is easy to get lost in the maze.

It can also get pretty crowded … and a common cry that can be heard is “Doroga doroga” or “Jol, Jol” – cried by youths pushing carts carrying goods either to or from the market stalls and which basically mean  ”Make way“, or “Clear the path“.

Of course, one of the “hazards” that is common in any crowded location like this – anywhere in the world – is the presence of pickpockets … and, unfortunately, we have known tourists who have fallen foul of them.    The standard advice of how to protect yourself from pickpockets still applies:

• Try to avoid crowded areas – although that’s definitely a problem here;
• Son’t keep valuables (or anything), in a back pocket – it’s the easiest to be picked … keep them in a front pock – or a “secret pocket” … a money belt or inside pocket;
• Only take as much money with you that are likely to need;
• Try to blend in and not “stick out”, dressing conservatively and behaving appropriately for the surroundings;
• Don’t keep all your valuables (such as all your money or all your plastic cards) in one pocket …  spread them between several pockets;
• Don’t keep fingering them, to try and see that they are still there – as that simply tells an observant pickpocket where they are;
• Try not count money in an open place where the action (and the money) can be seen;
• If you carry a shoulder bag – keep the straps as sort as possible and preferably pass it over you head so that it is diagonally across your chest, keep the bag under your arm and hold on to it at all times;
• Despite their name, where possible, wear backpacks across your front rather than on your back;
• Close all the zips and fastners … although that won’t stop the “professional thief” from slicing it with a knife if they really want to;
• Don’t leave bags etc. unattended and when putting them down, secure them – for eample wrapping the strap around a chair leg;
• At all times try to stay vigilant and aware of your surroundings/
• Make sure you have copies – and keep them separately –  of any important comments – passports, tickets, etc., and a lit of contact details  so that you can report any theft or lass as quickly as possible.

Perhaps more worrying for many tourists is the fact that, over the years, there have been many reports of tourists being stopped by “police” ostensibly asking for documents and then attempting a what is described as a “shakedown”.

 

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