Postcard from Bishkek

The other day I came across an interesting article, (in Russian), entitled Stereotypes about Tourism in Kyrgyzstan … but I think the headline writer got it wrong.

The problem with the headline, in my opinion, was the word “stereotypes” … in that this word usually refers to people … but the article was not about the people involved in tourism – either the tourists or those involved in the industry delivering services, but about Tourism as an economic activity albeit one that has been identified by successive Kyrgyz governments as a strategically important sector of the economy.

A stereotype is a commonly held opinion or image of a group of people … a generalization which may be drawn on examples or experience which are in turn based on perceptions of common characteristics shared by members of the group … but they are basically generalizations and oversimplified and can result in particular individuals who don’t fit the stereotype being prejudged and treated unfairly as a result.

I suppose that it can be applied to things as well as people, but in general it is used to apply to people … which sounds like a stereotype in itself – a stereotype of the word “stereotype“.

When I opened the page to see what the article said, I admit that I was expecting to see a list of stereotypes of people:

• the innkeeper from Les Miserables who invents all sorts of surcharges to fleece his guests and maximize his profit; and the the mirror image among the tourists; or
• the professional complainer who is never satisfied and looks for any and every opportunity to seek a discount or “complimentary”; or
• the  budget traveler who watches every cent feels he’s being cheated if he can’t beat the price down by at least 50%; or
• the backpacker - young, fit and eager to venture into the wilds where they commune with nature, perhaps without encountering a single soul; or
• the photographer who wants to stop the vehicle every few minutes the road turns a corner or crests a ridge, and a new vista opens before them … in order to snap another 20 or 30 shots; or
• the family eager to hit the beach during the day so that Mum and Dad can catch the sun while the kids swim or energetically charge around and then looking for the disco during the evening in order to dance the night away; or
• the surly policeman who stops an obvious tourist with a demand for “documenti” showering them with questions about where they are from?, where they have been? and where they are going” – even if they don’t understand each other … before asking them to empty the contents of their pockets or rucksack; or
• the guide full of enthusiasm for their country … who can quote masses of statistics about crops and industry, oblivious to the fact that these figures mean nothing to their audience; or
• the stamp collector rushing from border post to border post – showing little interest in the scenery whizzing past their window; or
• the driver who knows the route and is full of suggestions for little detours; or
• the fastidious eater who misses the usual fare of his normal diet – bringing with him from home jars of his favourite condiments – such as Marmite and English Mustard – whilst refusing to eat anything which looks like “foreign muck” or to drink anything but bottled water; or ,
• the failed polyglot who is fluent (up to a point) in just one language – their own – who insists on using obscure idioms and cultural references which they assume everyone will instantly understand … and who thinks the best way to make sure that people understand them is to repeat the same phrase over and over again only getting louder and louder with each new utterance; or
• The Selfish Giants (with apologies to Oscar Wilde) who are always up at the crack of dawn in order to wander down to the pool or the beach in order to put their towels out to reserve the best spots before wandering off to breakfast … and then disappearing for half a day leaving the choicest berths around unoccupied for the best part of the day; or
• the noisy and raucous teenager/students who simply want to show that they have tried the local beer and, like the Gallaghers, – they know “how to throw a PARTY!” … even if it is in the early hours of the morning; or
• …

well … I’m sure you get the point you get the point … As it happens, each of these is valid in some way – at least up to a point – because they are drawn from real life examples … offering both, confirmation and our pre-existing prejudices  whilst at the same time feeding off those selfsame prejudices.      

… but what I got was something quite different.

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The article was an op-ed piece, (which many people thin stands for “opinion editorial”, but I am told actually derives from “opposite the editorial page” and refers to where such articles appeared in traditional newspapers – articles which express the opinion of the author but not necessarily those of the editorial board which represent the publishers and official policy of the newspaper … ), written by the Deputy Minister responsible for Tourism in Kyrgyzstan.  It represented his views … and, I suppose, by extension those of the Government in which he serves.

The author was writing for a local audience and he chose to highlight a number of issues which he thinks are commonly held opinions, which may draw on examples or experiences in daily life, but which he considers to be oversimplified generalizations … or more simply, misconception … or just downright wrong.

For example, … he says that one impression held by many people here in Kyrgyzstan is that tourism is overpriced … although compared to prices elsewhere in the world, they are comparable and actually cover a wide range from “cheap and cheerful” to, well – let’s be honest – expensive.

Personally, I agree with him when he says that it’s a mistake, (albeit one which many people make), to nke comparisons with other countries around the world and that we should be very careful when drawing parallels.  Kyrgyzstan is not Turkey, Thailand, Germany, Japan or the United States … and the tourism industry in Kyrgyzstan is, likewise, different. There are similarities but there are also significant differences.  Drawing on “stereotypical” images of tourism means resorting to generalizations, which may be based on an oversimplified image, ignoring specifics and leading to misconceptions and unfair conclusions.

The important issue is what would this cost in London, New York, the Bahamas, or Marakesh … or anywhere else for that matter … but what is a fair price for this product? … here? … and now?   What constitutes a “fair price” is, of course, a moot point.

I am often surprised, for example, when hotels and sanatoria are criticized for high prices – with even travel agents calling for the management of such establishments to lower their prices and bring them within the reach of “ordinary people”.     They have to, for example, cover their costs … and that includes the social costs like paying their taxes … as well as cover the necessary costs when the facility is underused, or even out of use, during the “off season” as well as making a profit which will allow for future investment and development.

Of course, the innkeeper from Victor Hugo’s Les Miserables, (now there’s a typicalstereotye), is obviously not charging a “fair price” – he “in the business of “taking his clients for as much as he can get”).  In recent years we have seen a backlash to such “hidden extras” being used to inflate prices … not necessarily here in Kyrgyzstan – but in the West.  This approach not only brings the innkeeper into disrepute himself, but it also contributes to creating the negative stereotype … affecting others, no matter how fair their prices are or conscientious they might be.

There are other aspects, or “market forces”, which come into play and affect pricing policy: for example, competition which tends to depress prices, and  the “law” of supply and demand.  There is, for example, a limited supply of places available around Lake Issyk Kul and, in the “low season” when the number of visitors is less, then prices tend to be lower so that individual establishments can attract as many of those visitors as possible, whereas during the “high season”, when far more people  looking for accommodation, a shortage tends to inflate prices … and the question of “what constitutes a fair price?” becomes “what price are people prepared to pay?”

In that situation, is it really possible to talk about “over priced”?

Another common impression is that the level of service is poor.  Once again, this may be based on particular examples … and comparisons with services which travelers may experience elsewhere in the world, and have come to expect.  

Unfortunately, this impression is fed by people constantly repeating it like a mantra … almost to the extent of it becoming the equivalent of a self fulfilling prophecy.  It is true that there are many examples of where a visitor may be greeted with a “take it or leave it” attitude rather than a customer orientated one which says “we are glad to see you and want to thank you for choosing us”, … but this is a generalization and many, (most), enterprises are fully aware of how they depend on the goodwill of their clientele.

Another stereotype that author cited concerned safety and security … pointing out that Kyrgyzstan  seems to have acquired a reputation as a “wild” place with protests and revolutions in the air, crime disease, nayhem and disorder .  

Once again, as the author takes pains to point out, this is some basis, or element of truth, behind this image … as the Kyrgyz participate in their national sport of organizing and participating in protest rallies … blocking roads and sending out negative vibes and images which the press (both here and abroad) seize upon and dramatize as newsworthy in the balmy summer days when other news is “slow” …  

I think he is right, however, when he says that this is unfair … although I wouldn’t go as far as he apparently supposed to have done in a press conference when he is reported to have said that not one tourist has been attacked/suffered/threatened in the twenty years of Independent Kyrgyzstan … that sounds like wishful thinking and I do know several incidents.  As this sort of statement, however, is not really part of his style, I think it is just as likely that the press jumped on a comment and possibly misinterpreted/misreported it … but as I wasn’t there – I don’t know.   

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 I am sure that he could have thought of yet more examples … but it got me wondering what impressions other people might take away with them that might create a different sort of stereotype of Kyrgyzstan:

• the landscapes – whether it be the craggy peaks of mountain ranges or the desolate barren sandstone along the Southern shore of lake Issyk Kul, the forested slopes of fir trees in Northern Kyrgyzstan or Walnut groves in Southern Kyrgyzstan ; including …
• the apparently empty spaces, as you sit wondering where is all the wildlife that is supposed to be here … it is there but all too often shyly hiding itself away from prying human eyes; or
• the hospitality of the people – who open their homes to complete strangers whilst melting quietly into the background so as “not to disturb”; or
• the people themselves – whether they be the aksakals, wizened old men sporting white beards, accompanied by their diminutive eje. or the bright and cheerful children standing by, taking everything in as they watch the world go by … especially when they do it whilst sitting atop of their steed; or
• the colourful displays of craftwork whether felt carpets (shyrdaks and ala kiyiz), patchwork, (kurak), the reed screens and mats (chiy), jewelry, and so forth; ot
• the haunting melodies performed on instruments like the Komuz, the chopo choor or temir komuz; or
• the vestiges of soviet power – the monuments, (such as war memorials), the decorative bus stops, the enigmatic museum exhibits and not forgetting the ever present Vladimir Ilyich, (Lenin); or
• the colourful displays in the country’s markets; or
• …

… Well, I am sure you get the idea …

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