Postcard from Bishkek

I never learnt Latin at school … although, like most people, I do know the odd phrase – such as Veni, vidi, vici … which is how  Julius Caesar is supposed to have described his triumph in a short war: I came, I saw, I conquered.

Another phrase is I picked up during my ecclectic education was Tabula rasa – or, “blank slate“.  The term originates from the Roman tabula or wax tablet which was used by scribes for taking notes.  A hollow in a frame  was filled with a layer of wax and and the notes scratched into the wax using a stylus as a pen.  The table could then be cleaned by heating the wax and then smoothing it, to give a tabula rasa which was then ready to be reused.

It’s a rare occurrence in life when we have a completely blank slate … in most cases there are circumstances and conditions which play a role in whatever decisions we have to make  … including when trying to decide where to take our holidays.

At first glance it may appear that we have a completely free choice … and a bewildering array of options and offers … after all, it’s a “big world” even if it is becoming a “global village”.  There are, however, a range of issues that actually help to narrow down that dazzling diversity of options … some ruling out one alternative, whilst other possibilities fall victim to different constraints.  Some of these limiting factors are practicalities whilst others are associated with preferences, interests and desires.

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Although, as a tour company, we have a number of “packages”, set itineraries, which we offer, in most cases clients choose between several elements and then, together, we compose a tour itinerary based on these. As a result, most of our tours are customized to meet the client’s individual wishes.

In short:

The client decides what they want to do – they tell us – and we see if it is possible.

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Among the factors to be considered in constructing an itinerary, such as:   Dates (defining the time available); Formalities, (Visas, registration, permits, etc.); the number of people in the group; the type of tour – whether you want to take part in an organized tour or prefer self directed; the places you want to visit; the types of transport, accommodation, food etc.; any activities and, (of course), the cost.

Dates: The first thing to consider are fixed points …these are probably the arrival and departure dates – and may depend on things like flight timetables, the working regime of Torugart and Irkeshtam, but they can include also things like the dates of festivals, working regimes for museums, official offices (such as OVIR) and others.

Formalities: You need to consider the timing for things like obtaining invitations and visas – if it is necessary, registration and any necessary permits.

Numbers in the group: This can affect the choice of transport, accommodation. Although we have worked with groups of 20+, most of our work is with smaller groups (typically of between 2 to 8 people)

Accommodation: There are a wide variety of options: Hotels, guesthouses, homestays, yurts, camping, even hiring apartments … but not every option is available everywhere in the country. We normally recommend that for a more interesting trip you should try a mix of accommodation types – for example a night in each … a hotel, a guesthouse, a homestay, a Sanatoria and in yurts.

Food: In Bishkek and Osh there are plenty of places to eat … elsewhere it might be more difficult to find restaurants and cafes. In Bishkek, many clients prefer to explore the variety of cafes and restaurants (National, Russian, European, Chinese, Korean, Indian, Turkish, Ukrainian, … etc.), and cater for themselves – although we can arrange for meals in the city if requested. In most places, (but not all), Breakfast is included in the price of accommodation, and in most cases it may be wise to also have the evening meal at the place where you are staying. Most places in Issyk Kul include meals (three times a day), in the cost of the accommodation. Meals on the road can be more problematical … and we usually recommend that you let us find a suitable place to stop – but the fare is likely to be traditional Central Asian (Plof, Manti, Laghman, etc.) – or to arrange picnic lunches.

Places to visit:

• Bishkek – the capital city, including a city tour and/or free time
  • Day trips into the mountain valleys to the south of Bishkek, (Ala Archa, Alamedin, Belagorka, Issyk Ata, Kegeti, Shamsy) – each with their own features and charm – walking or riding
• Chon Kemin – a valley behind the mountains on the Northern side of Lake Issyk Kul – with the opportunity for walking or Horse riding – or just taking in the atmosphere of rural Kyrgyz village life.
• Issyk Kul – the “pearl of the Tien Shan” – the second largest mountain lake in the world after Lake Titicaca in Peru … including the possibility of:
  • A boat ride on the lake
  • Visiting the open air museum of petroglyphs at Cholpon Ata
  • Relaxing on the beach at one of the Sanatoria/resorts (perhaps taking one of the ‘treatments’ – e.g. thermal baths …)
  • Explore one of the mountain valleys such as Grigorievka, or Semyenovka
  • Svetly Mys – where St. Matthew is said to be buried
  • Karakol, a Russian “pioneer” town,
    • Orthodox Church and Dungan (Chinese) mosque
    • The Prezhervalsk Museum and the regional Museum
    • A trip to the valleys of Altyn Arashan and/or Djety Oguz
  • Barskoon/Tamga – with the Barskoon valley
  • A demonstration of hunting with eagles at Bokonbaeva
  • A helicopter trip to Khan Tengri and the Enichek glacier
• Osh – the “southern capital”, including a city tour and/or free time
• Sary Mogul and the area around Peak Lenin
• Batken – the extreme South West of the Republic
• The Bishkek-Osh Highway
• The Uzgen Archaeological complex
• A trip to the “Royal” Walnut forest of Arslan Bob
• A visit to Sary Chelek Lake ( 7 lakes in the region) – or the valley of the Kara Suu. Sary Chelek – in the words of a client, is “a paradise on earth. Words can’t describe it. You have to see it yourselves.”
• The Toktogul Reservoir
• The Suusamyr plain
• Talas – not far from the site of the historical battle of Talas (751 AD) between the Arabs and Chinese forces – the battlefield itself is actually in Kazakhstan – the valley is known as the homeland of the Kyrgyz mythical hero Manas – and his mausoleum is found in the valley. It is also the home of the famous Kyrgyz author Chinghiz Aitmatov – who was the Kyrgyz ambassador to Belgium.
• Son Kul – a high mountain lake (3016 m) set on a treeless plateau … with the possibility for horse riding.
• The Kekmeren valley – a picturesque road between the Suusamyr plain and Son Kul – popular for White Water Rafting.
• Kochkor – a small market town … famous as a center for traditional Kyrgyz crafts … a chance to stay with a local family and experience Kyrgyz hospitality and traditional Kyrgyz culture.
• Naryn – a staging post on the road to China …
• Ece Naryn – and other side roads providing interesting, rarely traveled routes by Western tourists through wild scenery.
• Tash Rabat – a Silk Road Caravanserai, described by one author as the silk road monument which best preserves the atmosphere of the original Silk Road – to quote another client … “if only you had told us how magnificent it was we would have spent more time here”.
• The Roads to China – via either the Torugart or Irkeshtam Passes. Torugart is South of Naryn and Irkeshtam is South of Osh. It is possible to visit Kashgar on a six day “weekend trip” to see the famous Sunday Market over one pass and back over the other – but this has a number of logistical difficulties – or to travel on from Kashgar to Urumqi and beyond.
• Saimaluu Tash – the Stonehenge of Central Asia … with a “gallery” of petroglyphs.
• The Kazarman-Djalal Abad road – closed for six months of the year, (it used to be eight), and in the words of one client: “I understand why you were concerned about this road – spectacular, but it probably won’t be there for much longer …”.

… and there is more … these are just options … and although they will probably give a fair idea of what is available the final choice may depend on the timing, activities and … of course, the budget.  We can help clients to select and compose the itinerary that best suits them and ensures that they have a varied, rewarding and memorable trip.

Transport: The choice of transport will depend largely on the number of people in the group (e.g. a car, minibus, bus) and the places to visit (e.g. a car, a jeep, 4WD minibus, Vaktovka etc.) – Remember that the distances between various places can be quite large and traveling over mountain roads can take longer than you might expect – especially if you stop frequently for photographs, etc.

Guide Services: Although it is possible to travel without a guide … it usually helps to have one with you … we can offer English, Russian and French speaking guides with whom we have on our staff or work with on a regular basis and in whom we have confidence. We can also try to obtain freelance guides who speak other languages … but availability will be a question – especially if we do not have much notice

Activities: First of all construct a “wish list”. For example, (this is not an exhaustive list … but will give you some idea of what it is possible to arrange in different parts of Kyrgyzstan):

Some activities will require special support – such as Horse riding, trekking or cycling tours.

If you have considered these factors, then send us a request … we’ll look at it and see if it is viable as an itinerary, make suggestions of possible alternatives, and work out the details for you – and the cost.

Cost: Please see the postcard about our ‘Pricing Policy’ for details about how we arrive at our prices.

Perhaps the most important thing we bring to the planning process is our experience … and sometimes we have to say to people that it is just not possible to include everything that a potential client wants in the timescale or budget available. If we agree an itinerary then we will do our best to deliver it and ensure that you have a successful and enjoyable stay in the Kyrgyz Republic.

 

 

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