Alamedin
Everyone seems to have their favourite places in Kyrgyzstan … and this is also true when it comes to the valleys of the Kyrgyz Krebet. Everyone seems to have their own preferences. Ala Archa is, perhaps, top of the list for most people – with its alpine landscapes and variety of trekking routes. For some it is the brightly coloured Russian houses in the Belagorka valley and the walk to the Dove Falls – Golubini Waterfall – with the views of Marble Peak that offer the preferred destination for a day out. Others, on the other hand, prefer the narrow tree lined Kegeti valley, and yet others horse riding in the wide expanses of Shamsy. My personal favourite is probably the Alamedin valley.
The reason is simple – and practical. It is a fairly straight forward valley, picturesque with easy walking. Most of all, it’s not really possible to loose your way … or other members of your party, unless you venture a long way up the valley.
The Alamedin valley is one of the most striking features of the Kyrgyz Krebet, just South of Bishkek. The village of Koi Tash, 30 km from Bishkek, is the confluence of four roads: one from the capital; another which climbs to the West over the ridge, past Golubinyi Waterfall (yes, Dove Waterfall, but a different one which just happens to share the same name) to Kashka Suu in the Ala Archa valley; a third to the East towards Issyk Ata, and the fourth leading upto the main Alamedin valley. The canyon narrows and the stream, one of the main rivers flowing through Bishkek, cascades down to the Chui plain.
As you drive up the valley, when you reach the village of Koi Tash, it is possible to turn off and visit the picturesque Dove Waterfall … a favourite picnic spot amongst the people of Bishkek, at least those who have been there, and can find the way. The location of the waterfall is not well known and the directions in various guidebooks differ. The guidebooks that do mention it describe the entrance to the gorge as the rocky gorge on the right. This is a very accurate description. As it is quite difficult to find, unless you have a guide, it might be a good idea to ask the locals the best route to the waterfall.
To go to the top of the waterfall you head up the hill to a sign. It doesn’t look far and it is steeper than it looks. It is not possible to go directly to the bottom of the falls from the top nor from the bottom to the top. The trail to the bottom of the falls is not for the timid tourist. It looks like a sheep trail along the side of the gorge. The trail has loose stones and sand and can be dangerous if you are not careful.
The waterfall itself is about 50 meters high and is located at the end of the ravine. The width of the ravine where the waterfall is located is 20-25 meters. There is a nice little pond at the bottom of the falls and the wind currents create a nice spray to cool you down on a hot day. The waterfall does not have a large volume of water passing through it. From both top and bottom the view of the falls is interesting and each perspective is different. The bottom of the falls can comfortably seat about 10 people.
Just past the village is the Koi Tash complex which has a hotel, restaurant and hosts many functions such as weddings in its eclectic landscaping.
Just past this is the Twelve Chimney’s restaurant … with open air booths on the banks of the river, as well as a well appointed and spacious dining room.
On one occasion I had to get to the Twelve Chimney’s restaurant, and as I was running late and so I grabbed a taxi … as we drove out of the city the vehicle started going slower and slower … 60 kilometers and hour, then 55, then 50, then 45, then 40 … and I started to feel more and more anxious, (remember, I was running late …). It didn’t help to reassure me that the driver was swinging his head from side to side as he took in the scenery. In the end, he said: “It’s nice here, isn’t it? I haven’t been here before … Maybe I will bring the family out here on Sunday.
Ten kilometers further on is the Tyoplie Klyuchi Sanatoria. At a height of 1800 meters a.s.l. there is a bathhouse with naturally, radon, heated water – (Take the advice of the doctors and restrict swimming in the pool to no more than about 10 minutes.) – and a complex of cottages further up the road, which was opened in 1984 by the then Ministry of Power.
Beyond the complex the vista opens out into a beautiful alpine valley – ideal for a day trip out from the city – and there is a trekking route over the mountains. There are waterfalls, glades with berries, mushrooms, juniper and birch forests and views of glaciers and the Usechenko peak (4650m), as well as a number of other canyons to the East.
There are plenty of possible picnic spots and, as I said, plenty of easy walking on both sides of the river.
Bishkek