Postcard from Bishkek

A few weeks ago I got a call from a journalist who wanted to take an interview about the book 100 Experiences of Kyrgyzstan.

The idea behind the book was to produce a mini, pocket sized photo album, that could serve as a “sampler”, presenting a selection (100) of “experiences” of that a visitor might encounter here in Kyrgyzstan – hence the title.

She asked me some very interesting questions … about the selection …

I tried to explain that it was supposed to be a series of “snapshots” of Kyrgyzstan, and as such it served several purposes.  It was, for example, both a brochure, (trying to introduce people to the attractions  that the country has to offer), and a souvenir, (a memento which visitors could treasure); fresh experiences and the familiar; something old and something new.

In particular she selected a number and said that these did not seem to be related to Tourism – such as Gold, the Manas Transit Base and the Marshrutka - the minibus taxis which ply their routes both around and between the country’s major cities.

I have to admit that they she had a point … but …

Most of the mines are in somewhat remote locations and although they may referred to by guides if there itinerary takes them near one, few tourists ever get to go and see a Gold Mine (such as Kumtor Gold Mine).  Also, although Bishkek has a number of jewelry shops that sell gold, very little of the it comes from Kyrgyzstan – virtually all the gold that is produced in the country is sold to Switzerland … it’s probably only the numismatics who decide to buy one of the commemorative coins from the National Bank can be sure of getting their hands on Kyrgyz gold … that’s .  On the other hand, visitors to the Historical Museum in Bishkek may get to see the Gold Collection, (coins, jewelry and so forth), which consists of artifacts which have been discovered in Kyrgyzstan – I say “may” because it’s a separate display housed in a secure room in the museum, which isn’t open every and requires payment of an additional admission fee.  

Still … Gold is an important aspect of Kyrgyzstan’s economy … and the world’s press has recently carried many articles with somewhat striking headlines about the mining industry so there is a good chance that those who hold the book in their hands will know something about the importance of gold to Kyrgyzstan.

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The Manas Transit Base is housed in Bishkek’s Manas Airport, (a civilian airport … that been one of the main points in the controversy about the future of the base), and anyone traveling in and out through the airport have been treated to views of military transport lined up on the apron beside the runway … but it is true that few tourists will ever visit  it – especially as it is slated to close in the next few months.

Still … in addition to the tourists who use the airport and so may well be aware of the base, it has consistently been in the news ever since it was opened back in the wake of the 9/11 attacks on New York and Washington and the decision to enter Afghanistan in search of those responsible.  That coverage has also included mention in many local papers in the States, referring to those serving at the base or those that have passed through the airport. 

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Visitors to Kyrgyzstan who book a tour with a tour  operator usually have their transport organized as part of a package – and so are unlikely to take a ride in a Marshrutka taxi, although some independent tourists – especially those on a tight budget – might, either as they make their way around the city or around the country, between cities.

 Still … although, I admit that I don’t use them very often, (as I live in the city center and virtually everywhere that I go is within easy walking distance), the Marshrutka is, for many people, the major form of transport.  It is part of everyday life.   

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For the record: the original list of 100 experiences was:

Aigul Flower, Aitmatov, Ala Archa, Ala Too Square, Alamedin Gorge, Altyn Arashan, Arashan Balsam, Arslan Bob, Balbal, Besh Barmak, Bishkek, Bishkek Cathedral, Boom Gorge, Boorsok, Burana Tower, Butterflies, Caves, CBT (Community Based Tourism), Chatyr Kul, Cholpon Ata, Djety Oguz, Dordoi Bazaar, Dungan Mosque, Edelweiss, Enilcheck Glacier, Felt, Fish, Fruit, Frunze Museum, Gold, Grigorievskoe Ushelie, Herbs, Holidays, Horse Games, Horse Riding, Horses, Hunting With Eagles, Issyk Ata, Issyk Kul, Kalpak, Karakol, Karakol Church, Kegeti, Khan Tengri, Kochkor, Komuz, Konorchak, Koshoi Korgon, Kumys, Kurak, Kurgans, Kyrgyz Cinema, Kyrgyz Cuisine, Kyrgyz Language, Kyrgyz Music, Kyrgyzstan, Lakes, Lenin Museum, Maksym, Manas, Manas Transit Centre, Manaschi, Marshrutka Ride, Merzabacher Lake, Mountains, Naryn, Osh, Peak Lenin, Petroglyphs, Prezhervalsk Museum, Rafting, Ruh Ordo, Saimaluu Tash, Salt Lake, Sary Chelek, Sheep, Shyrdak, Silk Road, Skazka Ushelye, Skiing, Snow Leopard, Son Kul, Soviet Heritage, Suleiman Too, Sunken Cities, Suusamyr, Taigan, Tamga Tash, Tash Rabat, Toktogul, Torugart, Trekking, Tsum, Tuunduk, Uzgen, Victory Peak, Walnuts, Waterfalls, Wildlife, Yurt

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