I received an email last weekend from the local television programme, “Open Kyrgyzstan“.  It’s a discussion programme which   tackles a variety of social, economic and politic topics and they have several times in the past considered questions about the development of Tourism in the Kyrgyz Republic.

As we approach the start of the tourist season, they are once again turning their attention to the development of tourism in the country.  They sent several people involved in tourism, (including me), a series of questions which they hope to cover in their analysis.  The answers will be posted on their website www.open.kg (in Russian).

Here are the questions they asked:

Here’s what I wrote in reply, (in English):

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Your questions seem to fall into two sections.  The first asks for statistical data concerning last year and the coming season:

Last year was not a good year for tourism in Kyrgyzstan … but you don’t need me to tell you that.  Everyone was talking about the lack of tourists, how few foreigners there were travelling the Silk Road, how many of the resorts on Lake Issyk Kul had empty places, and how the resorts had to reduce prices and rely on local visitors.

When you ask me about statistics, I have to say that you are asking the wrong person.  I can only tell you the results of our season, for example: how many tourists our company served.  I cannot tell you about the overall situation in the country, how much the local population earned, or other tour operators or the state budget.  I can tell you that our business declined to about 30% of what we would have normally seen during a season.

Many of those were people travelling the Great Silk Road, who basically have to transit through Kyrgyzstan between the ancient settlements of Uzbekistan and the mysterious orient – China.  Obviously very few of them chose to travel through Osh to Irkeshtam.  The majority came through Bishkek and Naryn to Torugart.  Some, unfortunately decided to by-pass Kyrgyzstan altogether and travelled via Kazakhstan to cross the border at Korgas … or chose to cancel/postpone their visit altogether.

Those tourists who had planned visits to Northern Kyrgyzstan, (for example, horse riding in the mountains of the Kyrgyz Range or Terskey Ala Too), decided to continue with their trips, and they had a very positive experience.

Turning to the prospects for this coming year, I have to say that when people ask me to make predictions about the forthcoming season I usually reply: “Ask me at the end of the season and I will tell you how it was.”  There are several problems with trying to predict the likely outcome of a tourist season, especially for a firm like our which works almost exclusively with clients from the West, the “Far Abroad”.

Most of those visitors have a long journey, which is usually very expensive.  They plan their journey well in advance. Those who were thinking of coming to Kyrgyzstan in the summer would have been planning their trip the previous year.  Usually, we start to receive enquiries during the previous year and many of the bookings we get are provisional.  They have to be confirmed, and depend on the number of applications for that particular tour.  Normally we don’t know if the tour will actually take place until about a month before it is supposed to start.  If our partners plan, say, six tour groups during the coming season, then we might end up with six groups, five, four, three, two or just one … or maybe, even, none at all.

It is true that there are tourists that appear during the season, but it is not the main part of our business and we never know how many of those we can expect.

What I can tell you is that we have received far fewer enquiries and prospective bookings for this year than ever before, (with the exception perhaps of our first year in business).  Some of those enquiries and prospective bookings will result in actual tours, but not necessarily all of them.

As a result, I think that this year will actually be worse than last year.

As I said, we work almost entirely with Western travelers, from the “Far Abroad”, and the situation may be different for those companies that work with more traditional markets, (Kazakhstan etc.), providing putovkas for the resorts on Issyk Kul.  However, I have some doubts about this.

You don’t ask about next year.  I understand that your focus is the prospects for the coming season, but I think you should also address this.

If, this year, there are no social and political upheavals, then I see no reason why next year should not see the start of a revival in the prospects for tourism.  The main attractions of Kyrgyzstan, (the mountains and spectacular landscape, the natural environment, the historical connections, the traditional nomadic lifestyle and culture of the Kyrgyz, and so on), remain.  There may well be, however, other issues to address that will provide challenges for us to overcome, such as the effects of climate change as a result of Global Warming, the escalating cost of fuel, and so on.

In my opinion, our most important task this year is to survive and develop so that we are in a healthy position so as to develop and grow next year and beyond.

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The second section asks about what can be done, what has been done and what should be done to facilitate the development of tourism in Kyrgyzstan.

You suggest, for example, that many of the basic problems facing the development of tourism in Kyrgyzstan, (and you mention some of them), have remained the same over the year.  It is hard to disagree with this … but, then again, it is not that surprising.

It is true, for example, that over the years there have been many meetings to discuss the development of tourism in Kyrgyzstan and sometimes it does often seem that discussion always revolves around the same issues … and although there have been many suggestions about how to address and resolve the issues, little concrete actually gets done.

Of course, there are problems with implementing suggested improvements – especially the lack of financial resources.  There is also a considerable shortfall in the amount of finance available to implement policy.  That is understandable.  The country has trouble raising tax revenues to pay for essential services and pay pensions, so they have difficulty in allocating large sums to measures which may, (or, let’s face it, may not), be successful in bringing tourists to Kyrgyzstan, providing job opportunities and raising tax revenues.

Then again, the situation is not a simple one.  For example, not all the issues you mention concern tourism in isolation.

Let us take just one example, the conditions of Kyrgyzstan’s roads.  It has to be noted that there has indeed been some improvement in respect to these – especially on the main trunk roads through the country.  When I first came here almost 16 years ago, for example, I frequently heard talk about how difficult the journey to Osh was, but now the road is good, high quality, along its entire length.  Hopefully, the main road between Bishkek and Torugart through Naryn will be just as good now that it is under reconstruction, and later also the road from Osh to Irkeshtam.  There are still many roads that needs attention but, of course, major improvements such as the renovation of hundreds of kilometers of road surface are expensive and take a long time to complete.  They should, however, bring considerable benefits – and not just for the development of tourism – by improving access to and around the country.

So, some issues, (such as the provision and development of general infrastructure resources – such as the roads, the marketing Kyrgyzstan as a country – whether to attract investors or tourists, and the visa regime), are matters for the government to address, (within the constraints of available resources), whilst others, (for example, the provision of hotel facilities and entertainments), are questions for the private sector.  Government policy can probably best help the development of tourism by fostering an attractive and conducive environment for the attraction of investment and for the conduct of business, so that investors are not only willing but are eager to take up and develop opportunities.

In theory, the development of a concept for the development of tourism should be helpful.  It should, for example, help to focus attention on the sector and it could give an impetus and direction to the organs of State in implementing various specific measures, but I am not sure to what extent it will actually help in practice.

The reports on Tourism Development in Kyrgyzstan that I have seen are usually very good, well written and insightful, at least when it comes to describing the existing situation in the country: the historical context, the strengths, (attractions of the country and opportunities for development), as well as the weaknesses and threats facing the industry.  The problem with these reports, however, normally arises when considering the future direction the country should take.

There are conflicting ideas about exactly what form of tourism the country should try to develop.  It seems reasonable that we should try to preserve the existing markets, (for example Recreational Tourism based on the Resort Zone at Issyk Kul, Adventure Tourism – such as Mountaineering and Trekking, and Travel along the Great Silk Road), but also to develop new ones, (such as Winter Sports or developing the potential of the Chinese and Indian markets) … or at least provide the conditions that will allow entrepreneurs and investors to do so.

I do expect that that the review will lead to changes in legislation, indeed it seems almost inevitable.  Once again, however, I am not sure to what extent this will help, or is even necessary.  I am not convinced, for example, to what extent a separate law “On Tourism” is necessary.  Tourist companies are just examples of companies doing business.  There is already ample legislation concerning the conduct of business and the protection of consumer rights and so I am not sure that I see that there is anything Tourism that requires a separate law.

You ask, in particular, about possible changes to the Visa Regime and the possibility of introducing a Visa Free Regime for certain “developed” countries.  There has been much said and written on this topic over the years.  Let me just say that, it seems to me, Kyrgyzstan has a lot to gain in terms of attracting potential tourists by relaxing its visa regime.

One of the most important tourist resources for Kyrgyzstan is, of course, Lake Issyk Kul.  The majority of visitors to the country come to rest in the resorts on the shores of the lake.  It brings not only a mass of tourists, providing employment opportunities for the local population for the duration of the season but also it has a large potential in tax revenues for the state and local budgets.

Once again, however, there a question about what the state can do, and should do, to assist in the development of tourism and what should fall to the private sector.

A lot of work has been done to establish new facilities, and modern existing ones, on the shores of the lake.  Most of this has been achieved by the private sector, investors hoping to create a successful business and reap the rewards of their investment.  One step that the government could undertake to help the development of tourism in the region is to prioritize the development of the airport in order to make access to these facilities easier.

Ours is a service industry and relies on satisfying both the needs and the expectations of the client – providing the levels of service that the modern tourist has come to expect.  It is true that there has been much attention paid to trying to raise the level of professionalism of the people working in tourism, and this is probably as important, (if not more important), than the development of new facilities.  There is still more that could be done, for example simple improvements such as, instead of providing a set meal at set times, introducing some element of choice.

There is a limit, however, as to how many tourists the region can sustain without damaging the very thing that people come to enjoy.  Concentrating on this region in isolation can also mean that other regions of the country do not gain from the benefits that the development of tourism can bring, such as the increased employment opportunities.

It is important to remember, also, that the season in Issyk Kul is very short and that the resorts not only compete amongst themselves but also in the global market place against other resort areas such as Turkey and Thailand.  One of the most useful things that can be done would be to find a way to extend the season so that resorts and facilities do not stand idle for the best part of the year.  The development of ski resorts, for example, is a welcome development, as would be the development of training facilities for sportsmen, (which, incidentally, would help Kyrgyzstan sportsmen as much those from foreign countries.)

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Here’s the interview, (in Russian), as they posted it.

This time it’s for an article to appear in a new journal which is being planned to be published here in Bishkek by a European publishing house.  It will be in Russian,  so it is for the local population which means that the articles will need to be analytical rather than marketing.  It’s surprising how many local people don’t understand that point.  Even journalists!

Anyway, I have gotten used to this sort of scenario … and they look for a good topic to serve as a theme for the first issue.  Something that is attractive with the possibility for many different stories on different aspects, and lots of good photo opportunities.  Tourism in the republic is a good choice because it’s meant to be a priority are of government strategy, with great potential for growth and improving the earning potential amongst all sections of the population, including the poorest. there are many different stories to be told, lots of people willing and eager to have their say and provide a good quote.  There are many, many photo opportunities.

Anyway, yes, of course I agreed to give an interview.

We began with some background about the planned publication, circulation, no of pages, planned targeted readership, etc.  Then we launched into the questions … she told me that she had three questions and it would take about half an hour … Not bad, I thought to myself.

As usual, however, Robert Burns got it right when he commented about how “the best laid plans of mice and men … ” often go awry.

You see, she asked her first and ninety minutes later I said, “What about your second question?” … well, we decided to give that a miss … I think her Dictaphone had run out of storage space, or battery, or something … or maybe she was just tired … I know that I was.

We took it for granted that the development of tourism in the republic was a good thing, that it would bring benefits and that we should pursue it.

The trouble was that her first question was basically about what needs to be done to develop tourism … and then she went on: “I suppose something needs to be done about the level of service …”.

Well, talk about a leading question … Sorry, but I don’t agree … let’s start at the beginning … don’t worry, we’ll get to the question of service, but it’s not necessarily where we need to start.

I explained that, as I saw it, there were four main areas that we had to concentrate on:

The first was … Before the potential client decided where to go on holiday – it’s a question of marketing.

We have to tell them about Kyrgyzstan and persuade them that it is really is a place they ought to visit.  If we didn’t do that, then everything else was irrelevant.  Sorry but just building a hotel doesn’t mean that guests “will come”, (as in “Field of Dreams”), they won’t automatically beat a path to the door and start banging on the door demanding to let them in. Without clients … there’s no business.

Once again, I am often amazed how many people don’t seem to understand this basic point.

In fact, it shouldn’t be too difficult … if we can get over the “whereizstan”? syndrome … then it should be possible to explain that Kyrgyzstan basically has something for everyone … well, except, perhaps a volcano, (but then if someone is specifically looking for a volcano, then there’s probably nothing we can say to persuade them …).

One of the most influential forms of advertising is personal recommendations, accounts, comments and photographs of those who have already been to and enjoyed their visit to Kyrgyzstan.  Every satisfied client will recount their experiences and impressions to members of their family, their friends, their colleagues at work and their acquaintances, and some will be intrigued and may “catch the bug” and have their interest in the country aroused.  Unfortunately, if they have they have a bad experience they will tell all of their family, friends, colleagues and acquaintances … and the “dirt will stick”.   Bad news travels fast and it is very difficult to combat is, so our reputation is very important.

One issue that may attract people, or put them off, is the question of price.  In recent times there has been a lot of discussion about pricing policies.  In some respects, Kyrgyzstan is a cheap destination, but in others it is expensive, especially when compared to other destinations … and when comparisons are made about the level of facilities and service which the tourist receives.  Those of us in the industry have come under pressure to reduce prices.  I understand that everyone wants to pay as little as possible to obtain goods and services, to save money … no-one wants to feel that they have been “fleeced” … and that prices should be commensurate with the goods and services the client receives.   However, there is also an obligation on those setting the prices to cover their costs, pay their taxes – and make a profit.  It does nobody any good if the company goes bankrupt because they have reduced their prices so much that they cannot cover their costs, or they don’t make enough profit to enable future development, renovation, etc.   It’s a balancing act.

The second is … When they have decided to come here, then we have to do everything to make it easy for them to actually do so.

Unfortunately, it’s not all that easy to get here … some of the difficulties are grounded in the fact that we so distant from our markets – whether it be from places like Europe, America and Australasia, or even from the population  centers of Kazakhstan and Russian, which provide the vast majority of tourists to visit the country,

It’s not just the distance, though … the connections, (where by road, rail or air), are so limited.  There are only something like eight border crossing points that are open to foreigners.  There are basically two train lines into the country, and only one of those actually goes any real distance inside the country … up to Issyk Kul … and the journey from Moscow, for example,  can take several days. Likewise a bus journey from the population centers in Siberia.  Try getting to and from Australia … there are no direct flights and with at least one change over, sometimes a lay over, and often two … and the journey can take take twenty six hours or several days … if there are seats.  Most of the planes on the popular route, through Tashkent, are flight shares and fully booked well in advance … or they use small planes and can carry a limited number of passengers.   One client from Australia actually found it easier to book a seat via London, than fly via Tashkent … three quarters of the way round the world!

Then we come to the thorny questions of Visas …

Let’s be frank about this ….  visas are important.  They are an important tool in the fight against crime and terrorism.   However, although people do understand this and are prepared to obtain visas where necessary, this requirement does present a barrier to the visitor.  The requirement to obtain a visa says to the visitor, we don’t trust you – we need to check you before we will let you into our country.  That’s hardly a welcoming message to send, especially for those for whom there is no real or perceived threat to Kyrgyzstan.

Now, to be fair, Kyrgyzstan has a fairly liberal visa regime in many respects.  It is one of the most liberal in the whole of the region, in the whole of the former Soviet Union, but it could, of course, be made easier.   There are some countries whose citizens enjoy a visa free regime … they can simply visit the country without needing to obtain permission from the authorities.  Others need to obtain a visa, but can obtain one by simply applying for one at a Kyrgyz consular office … If they can find one, that is … there aren’t that many of them around the world.  It’s possible to apply for a visa at a Kazakh embassy in countries where there is no official Kyrgyz diplomatic representation, (for example in France, Italy or Spain), but this involves additional formalities, time and expense.  It is also possible for them to obtain a visa on arrival at Manas Airport in Bishkek, but not everyone uses Manas as a gateway to the country.  Everyone else who wishes to visit Kyrgyzstan has to be invited, and have that invitation approved by the authorities, which involves additional cost and time, (in the worst case of which I am aware, it took seventy days to obtain approval), and the tourist cannot be sure that approval will be given.  They wait for seventy days, planning a trip, and all their plans, hopes and expectations can be overturned because authorization is refused.  That’s hardly an encouraging or welcoming message to send.

What’s more, for the visitor to obtain a visa costs them time and money.  If a family is travelling then the time taken to obtain a visa is probably the same as if just one person was travelling, but the cost in terms of visa fees, the cost increases proportionally.   If the tourist is planning to visit several countries – then they need several visas – involving additional expense, additional time.  It would help if there was only one visa necessary to visit several countries, like the Schengen visa in Europe, or as in Southern Africa.  That would require international agreements which will take time to conclude, and our experience with the Republic of Kazakhstan on the limited, mutual recognotion of tourist visas, does not set a very good precedent, as it basically doesn’t work.

It would be good if we could simplify the visa system … just the announcement that we were doing so would send a positive message around the world.

That brought us to the third … Once the visitor has finally arrived, we need to do everything that we can to ensure that they have a good time and a memorable experience … with good memories that is.  At long last we have arrived at the question of “Service” … where she wanted to start the interview …

There’s a lot said about the quality of service … and it is an important issue.  We are a “service industry” … and we have to provide value for money

When they do eventually manage to arrive, what do visitors face … a smiling face with a cheerful “how are you?”, no chance … passport control and immigration with unsmiling, unwelcoming officers sitting in booths, often not looking at even them apart from a suspicious scowl as they slowly and deliberately compare the photograph with the original standing before them.  Not all of the cabins are occupied … not all are working, so it can take well over an hour to clear the last passenger off the plane.

Off-hand Customs officials who, even if they don’t ask any questions, can  “make even a sainted grandmother feel uneasy and guilty” (… that’s actually a quote from a former client).  When they arrive at the airport, every bag has to go through scrutiny … as if they hadn’t been checked before allowed onto the plane in the first place.  That’s every bag … not just a spot check, or suspicious baggage, every bag!

Finally, they emerge from the customs hall into a noisy melee of expectant taxi drivers who seem to take it as a matter of professional pride to make sure there is never more than a meter of free space outside the door.  It’s probably in the early hours of the morning after a long night time flight when it has been barely possible to catch some sleep, so they are likely to be tired and irritable after their long journey.  They often find the airport cool, (if not cold) and poorly lit … now, most Soviet buildings are really quite spacious and well lit, so why is it that the airport isn’t?

If the clients have read the travel warnings issued by foreign governments, then they know to be wary of taxi drivers.  Most of them are actually quite reasonable, helpful and don’t overcharge as a matter of course … but, unfortunately there is always the exception.  It’s bad enough, stressful enough being in a strange country, in a poorly lit airport hallway without having to cope with the language problem … although those who have booked a tour are likely, at least, to be met by a guide who will speak their language … but even they have to “run the taxi gauntlet” in order to find them.

However, it’s not all bad news.  Things are improving.  They have improved a lot since I first came here for a short visit in 1994.  People who work in the industry do now think about this and in most places it is no longer a case of “take it or leave it.”

There have been initiatives to improve the quality of service in the industry …  work has gone on to define standards for professional qualifications, specialist training courses have been started which employers and training institutions cooperating together.  Most employers undertake special training for their staff … and, most importantly, many of the staff working in the industry do understand the importance of the quality of service.

In many respects, the question of service is a question of psychology: empathy with the client and motivation.  When it comes to it … the question of the quality of service really boils down to the person “on the front line” … the receptionist, the waiter, the cleaner … they have to understand what’s involved and why it is important.  All the official standards, training and procedures will have little effect if they don’t understand.

For example, one problem which has hindered the achievement of improvements in the quality of service is that so few of the local population who work in the industry have ever been “clients” themselves.  A waiter, who has never eaten a meal in a restaurant, may well have studied hard and have a certificate to show that he has successfully completed a training course, but if he also has experience of having been a diner then he will have a better idea of what the client is looking for when it comes to service.

One exception to this, however, concerns mealtimes.  Often the meals provided are “Table d’hôte”, a set menu at a set time … and there is no choice offered about what to eat, or when to eat.  I understand that running a resort on Lake Issyk Kul is a difficult task … the logistics and economics of feeding hundreds of people are complex enough, and the constraints that impose means that offering choices will only make the whole issue more difficult.  We faced similar problems in our hotels … I think we have solved the issue in Bishkek, although we still have problems in guesthouse in Naryn where we still operate a set menu, but with flexible times.  The guests are paying and deserve the effort that is required to try and overcome these logistical problems.

But it’s simply a question of service.  For tourists to enjoy a pleasant and memorable visit to Kyrgyzstan, it also requires developing the infrastructure.

As it happens, there has been good news here as well.  On Lake Issyk Kul, for example, there has been a lot of new development and renovation to bring hotels and resorts up to modern standards which tourists have become used to enjoying around the world.  It’s true that not every establishment, everywhere, has undergone such renovation, but it’s a “work in progress”.

The number, variety and quality of places to eat has grown tremendously in recent years – to the benefit of everyone, not just the visitor.

Other examples of infrastructure development important to tourists are also showing signs of improvement – telephone services, internet access, banking services, for example.  Some of the roads still need improvement, particularly bridges on some of the minor roads, and this should benefit the local population as much as the tourist.  Generally, however, although it is always possible to do better, the main roads are not too bad …

We probably need to improve things like the provision of medical services but, once again, that is something that should benefit the population as a whole and not just the tourist.

Another thing we should pay attention to is signage.  Information boards, preferably in different languages, would be a boon to the visitor, who may or may not understand Russian, but who probably won’t understand Kyrgyz.  In some places around the country, road signs and place names are displayed in both Cyrillic and Latin scripts and it would be good if this could be extended …  informative signs, (giving a few basic facts about things like historical events, geographical features, wildlife), and not just “Rules and Regulations” would be helpful.  Museums, could have signs about their exhibits in different languages … it helps the guest feel welcome and creates a positive impression.

Perhaps the biggest improvement we could make to the infrastructure, however … the one that would have the best effect … would be to improve the state of toilet facilities throughout the country.  Roadside toilets always present a problem, as the provision of water supply and sewerage facilities can be costly and impractical, where ever possible, however, clean and presentable toilet facilities will make a big difference to peoples impressions and memories about Kyrgyzstan.

… and Finally … When the tour is over and the tourist leaves Kyrgyzstan, we shouldn’t just waive goodbye, turn around and forget about them.

We should show that we value them by, at least, asking them for feedback about their experiences … what went well?, what did they particularly enjoy?, what could we do better?, how can we improve?.  This information will help us to improve our services in the future.

Hopefully their memories and souvenirs are good … and will encourage them to speak positively about Kyrgyzstan, to recommend us as a holiday destination to their family, friends, colleagues and acquaintances.  We should do all we can to help encourage them … where possible we should to keep in touch with them and give them news, … and listen to theirs.

It often surprises me how many people forget the importance of of “aftercare”.

Of course, the development of tourism so that it achieves its full potential, but not at the cost of the natural environment or social wellbeing and cultural heritage that help to make Kyrgyzstan what it is, is actually quite a complex task.

These four stages are sequential in terms of what the tourist experiences, but we can’t treat them sequentially … it would be a total waste of time to concentrate on marketing the country if the rest of the package is not ready.  Just as it would be wrong to concentrate on “service”, alone.  In the words of the old song, “you can’t have one without the other”.

Now, the old song coupled together “love and marriage” and “horse and carriage” and it’s not necessarily true, however, that you can’t have one without the other.  Although they compliment and enhance each other, they can exist separately, whether we like it or not.  I think a better coupling, on the other hand, would be “mountains and valleys”, as the relationship is stronger … although you can have valleys without mountains, (they could separate hills, or hillocks), the existence of a mountain necessitates the existence of valleys.

Basically, however, all this boils down to two things … to develop tourism in the republic, we need to work on, at least, two fronts simultaneously … with clients and with the front line staff who deliver the services to them.  It’s two ends of the same pole, two sides of a coin.

Of course, here I’ve condensed ninety minutes of conversation, (and it was a conversation, not a monologue, – although I may have done most of the talking), into a small space to fit onto a webpage.  I peppered the points I was making with examples, quotes from clients, and so forth.  She came back with questions, anecdotes and comments of her own.  That’s probably why it took so long.  I know that not everything we discussed will get into the final article … but I hope it gave her food for thought … and, maybe, some ideas for some follow up material.

“If those events caught everyone by surprise,” starts Claytor in his first “postcard” from the country’s capital, “then this year it was even more unexpected.  Looking back in hindsight, I suppose that we have been better prepared and foreseen the possibility of what happened taking place – but, quite frankly, we were all caught “off-guard”, especially by the speed at which everything occurred.”

Claytor’s postcards sent back to friends, family and colleagues have proved succinct observations of events on the ground as he witnessed them unfold. With the situation changing almost from moment to moment and with a great deal of uncertainty in the air as rumour and counter-rumour circulated, he attempted to record what he experienced in the heat of the moment. Others have, undoubtedly, had different experiences and reported different impressions.

“You will have seen the news items,” Claytor continues, “about what one newspaper here is calling the “Easter Revolution”. It’s my second Revolution in five years and, there is a very strong sense of déjà vu about the events.  They say that History has a habit of repeating itself and I suppose that what has happened here in Bishkek will only go to support this view.  There are some differences between what happened in March 2005 and in April 2010, but the similarities are pretty striking. Amongst those differences are the speed of the events, the effect of the internet … and the death toll, over 80 people.”

The background to the events are well documented. President Bakiev came to power as the result of the “Tulip Revolution” in 2005.  During this there was uproar and anger the population concerning authoritarianism, corruption, “empire building” and nepotism.  It all came to a head in demonstrations in the capital when the White House, (the seat of the government) was stormed by crowds of protestors.  President Akayev fled the country and the fragmented opposition found itself thrust into a position of having to try to forge a new government to fill the vacuum.  Bakiev emerged as the compromise leader and, for a time at least, hopes for improvement were high.

Things did not, however, go smoothly.  There were continuous protests over the five years of his presidency and he often made many of the same mistakes as his predecessor.  His party won parliamentary elections and he got himself re-elected to office for another five years, but there were many criticisms about the conduct of these elections, both within the country and from abroad. In addition, a particular cause of concern amongst the population were the huge hikes in the price of energy as a result of deteriorating relations with the Russian government, four or five fold in some cases, but with little or no support for the poor, who represent most of the population.

“We knew of the planned protests,” the first postcard continues, “although the opposition played their cards close to their chests, releasing little concrete information, presumably to prevent their plans from being disrupted by the authorities.  We also knew that Bakiev and his Prime Minister were strong authoritarian characters who had acted with firmness in the face of opposition.”

There is evidence that the authorities anticipated the events because there were huge transfers of funds out of the country just a few days before the trouble erupted. A number of government meetings were cancelled in advance because of news that there were to be mass demonstrations around the country, but few people anticipated the full extent of the way that events would turn out. These were not similar demonstrations to those that are continually seen in the West. No-one fully took into account the extent of the displeasure amongst the population against the regime, and their reaction to being shot at and people in the crowd being killed.

The protests actually began some before, with demonstrations against the energy price rises.  However, they erupted on Tuesday, the 6^th of April, in Talas.  Government offices were taken by the crowd, then taken back by the authorities, then seized again, and then it spread.

“The first I heard of it was when I was in a meeting on Friday evening.  One of my colleagues had received a phone call from his partners in Moscow asking what was happening.  It was all over their news reports.  He didn’t know anything about it, and the local TV stations didn’t seem to reporting it.  During the meeting, another of my colleagues took a phone call and he told us of the deaths in Talas. I left that meeting with a sense of despondency, but even at that stage I didn’t really foresee history repeating itself in the way that it did.”

“So, the following morning things continued more or less as usual. Some people had started to take precautions and several shopkeepers started to clear their shelves in the morning. There were a lot of people on the streets, but everyone seemed to be going about their usual business. ”

With this Claytor strolled off to meet a friend for lunch. Before they had finished, however, the shutters were going up and the streets began to fill, showing signs of frantic activity. Throughout that morning there had simply been no signals of what was to happen.

“We saw how the crowds were amassed around the White House; how some of the police, having tried to control the crowd, were retreating with some of them falling and being caught and beaten by the protestors; “snipers” were seen firing from the roof of the White House; the gates of the building were rammed by vehicles. We heard the news about how Bakiev had disappeared and a new, interim, government had been set up.”

Much of the action was happening in the main Ala-Too square. As darkness drew in the crowds started to roam the streets. At first they were just boisterous, but as the night progressed they began to breaking windows, firing gunshots and looting shops and offices. Some stores managed to escape damage thanks to metal shutters installed post the 2005 revolution, but the looters were resolute and exploited any weakness. All the stores in the Narodniy chain were more or less destroyed and those that managed to escape destruction on the first night were to suffer their fate the next. Claytor watched all of this unfold from his office, which he’d already taken measures to secure. “At first it was mainly food and alcohol… it was only much later that we saw signs of fridges, televisions and the like being loaded into cars.”

By this stage it had become clear that Bakiev had fled to his home in Djalal Abad, in the South of the country.  He started giving interviews and was clear that he did not want to resign, although for many it was hard to see how he could continue as President. Some foreign governments were quick to support the temporary incumbent opposition led by motherly figure, Roza Otunbaeva, others were more cautious. A Bakiev rally in the south did not gain any momentum. He continued to maintain that he was innocent of wrong doing and he laid the blame fairly and squarely on the shoulders of the “opposition”, but before long news filtered out that he had fled the country, supposedly seeking refuge in neighbouring Kazakhstan before heading to Byelorussia.

The interim government set to work with gusto, trying to present a united front. One of the biggest problems they faced was one of “legitimacy”.  Bakiev was the lawfully elected President. Even though the international community had expressed concerns over the conduct of the election, no-one declared that they considered the results to have been invalid.  Every decision the interim government made, every document they issued, every appointment they made, every signature and every stamp was open to question and dispute.

Nevertheless life slowly resumed in the capital. It had to go on.

“Banks have re-opened for business as normal … well, some banks at least, because five, that have connections with President Bakiev’s family were taken under special administration,” the postcards continue, taking a humorous break from the gravity of the situation. “Offices returned to work … well, some offices, because some were looted. Restaurants, Cafes, Bars are welcoming diners … well, some restaurants, cafes and bars.  Some are operating shorter working hours because there are fewer clients. Schools and Universities are operating as usual … although some classes are denuded as some parents have kept their children at home. Public transport has begun operating … Buses, trams, trains, (what few there are in Kyrgyzstan) and taxis were all running normally … well, there are less busses on the street because nearly thirty were completely destroyed and almost ninety suffered serious damage in the events of April 7^th. The borders are open … well, almost all of them.  Three of our four neighbours, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan and Tajikistan), closed their borders with Kyrgyzstan pretty sharply when the disturbances started, but now only the one with Kazakhstan remains closed, although they accepted a flight with Kurmanbek Bakiev on it.”

The big “clean-up” began and the detritus remaining after the rioting and looting was cleared away within days, although the city still bears signs of the damage incurred. Meanwhile aftershocks of the revolution have seen further violence and demonstrations. For the time-being it appears as though civil war has been avoided and the Foreign Office has removed  its warning against all but essential travel to Kyrgyzstan. The uncertainty does leave a certain risk of instability returning, but the signs at present don’t appear to guarantee this.

What is going to happen? “This is perhaps the most difficult question.  The future is open to all sorts of possibilities and no-one knows what will happen, but there are many people surmising and predicting a number of possible scenarios. Some of those scenarios are positive and full of hope for a brighter future.  Others are more pessimistic, pointing to the possibility of further strife: ethnic, regional … or other.”

The new authorities are still pursuing people involved in the previous regime.  “Only a few arrests have been made, so far, but about twenty former Ministers have been questioned by the police.  As a result of arrest warrants issued here for some prominent characters, notably Bakiev’s son, Maxim, Interpol have apparently issued “red notices” so we could see an extradition attempt. Luschenko, President of Byelorussia, has once again, made it clear that he is not going to allow the extradition of Bakiev.”

In conclusion to the events that Claytor witnessed first-hand he is stoic. “It wasn’t that bad!  It was bad.  It was unpleasant.  The deaths were tragic.  On the other hand it could have much, much worse.”

“It’s hard to say that things are truly “back to normal”, how can they be “normal” after such an event, especially so soon after the event?  After the death of a loved one, the funeral, memorial service, requiem mass, etc. are all designed to help the living come to terms with their loss and get on with the rest of their lives.  Life goes on, but people have to adjust to their new, changed circumstances.  That’s what is happening here.” Either way the reaction over the next few months are critical in determining whether the events and sacrifices of the “Easter Revolution” will prove worthwhile.

They first came to us with a proposal to advertise in their magazine Discovery Central Asia… and to be honest, at that time I wasn’t very keen, especially as the content was predominantly about Uzbekistan.   The editorial team, however, were keen to expand their coverage of the rest of Central Asia, so that magazine lived up to it’s name – and we agreed to supply some materials on Kyrgyzstan.  We still continue to contribute and work closely with the editors.

The magazine was well received and so successful that it was decided to issue special, complimentary, supplements on each country – Kyrgyzstan providing the pilot which was quickly followed by other ”supplements” devoted to Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan and Tajikistan.  The supplements also spun off into separate magazines – which are available in a number of outlets, (such as through hotels, airports, shops, tour companies …) at exhibitions and through embassies.  These in turn evolved into country specific, “travel guides”.

I wrote the original for the Discovery Travel Guide to Kyrgyzstan, in English, which has now been translated into German, Japanese and Russian … and a French version is in preparation.

Their latest project is a quarterly magazine called Open Central Asia.  It is published in the UK and aims to connect and highlight the links between Europe, (mainly the UK), and Central Asia.  It promotes the cultures, politics, events and communities of both regions and to open a discussion and exchange of ideas between them; to promote both business co-operation and tourism opportunities.  Currently it is distributed in 6 countries, (the UK, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan and Turkmenistan), and among over 1000 business companies through British-Uzbek and British-Kazakh Societies, American Chamber of Commerce in Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan. Copies of the magazines are also available at several Universities, Embassies, through Airlines and other organizations in the UK related to Central Asia.  Basically it is distributed free of charge, although for individual subscriptions there is a subscription fee to cover the cost of delivery, postage and packaging.

For their first edition, they asked me to do an interview about my experiences here in Kyrgyzstan, which I was happy to agree to do.

When the Easter Revolution occurred on April 7th, Marat happened to be in Bishkek.  As it happens, I was having lunch with Marat that day when everything “happened”.

The Silk Road Media office in Bishkek didn’t fare as well as we did during the rioting and looting.  It was in one of the government buildings and was gutted.  All of their equipment, (computers, etc.) was stolen along with a lot of stock, (books and magazines etc.), and what wasn’t taken away was damaged to the extent of being unusable.

For the next issue of Open Central Asia, they decided that they needed to include some articles about what what had happened, and they asked if I would be willing to contribute one … or perhaps do an interview.  I had no problem agreeing to this and we agreed to use these postcards as a basis for the “interview”, which was going to have to be conducted by email as we are separated by something like 8000 kilometers.

I also said that I needed to make the following clarifications:

1. The postcards are my personal observations, on the spot and at a given time … the situation was changing almost from moment to moment and, although the “rate of change” has slowed down, there is still a certain amount of uncertainty in the air.  Others had different experiences and have reported different impressions … I can’t argue with their experiences and impressions, but these comments arise from what I experienced and how I judged those experiences.
2. It wasn’t that bad!  It was bad.  It was unpleasant.  The deaths were tragic.  On the other hand it could have much, much worse.  And, let’s face it, we in the West don’t have a clear history in this respect … there’s no need to go back to the likes of the Battle of Bosworth (Henry VII had one of the weakest claims to the British throne ever), or Peterloo, just in my lifetime … I don’t remember the Notting Hill Race riots, but I do remember Wood Green, Luton … Los Angeles 1968 and 1992, Kent State University (the anniversary was yesterday, May 4th) … The Anti Nazi League/National Front clashes (Blair Peach inquiry has been in the news again recently, hasn’t it), The Anti hunting Law protests … The IRA bombing campaigns, 07/07 … and so on.  They may not have led to the overthrow of a government, but they share a common history of protest … and there were a number of deaths involved in many of them.We got away with a relatively short, but “bloody”, (costly in terms of lives lost), turmoil.  It could have been much, much worse.
3. We may well be part of a “global village but, basically, it looks like it was a predominantly internal affair … protests against a national leader and his government and “cronies” … it looks to me like Kyrgyz citizens putting their own house into order, albeit “with a little help from my friends”, (to quote the Beatles).
4. It’s hard to say that things are “back to normal” … how can they be “normal” after that sort of event?, especially so soon after the event.  After the death of a loved one, the funeral, memorial service, requiem mass, etc. are all designed to help the living come to terms with their loss and get on with the rest of their lives.  Life goes on, but people have to adjust to their new, changed circumstances.  That’s what is happening here.As examples of how things are “normalising” I can point to the fact that various donor agencies have agreed to extend, and even expand, their projects in the country and that some governments, (notably, of course, the British), have downgraded their travel warnings so that they no longer advise “against all but essential travel to Kyrgyzstan”.

Sometimes, however, a request for an interview is difficult to turn down.  Not long ago I got a request from a friend, a publisher, who was about to launch a new English language magazine dedicated to Central Asia: “Open Central Asia”.  In the end, I agreed to participate and received a series of questions by e-mail, (the journalist commissioned to write the story was based in the UK).

Although his questions covered much of the same ground as other interviews, (and other “postcards” on this website), it also had some new and interesting questions, and so I thought I would include it here:

A friend of mine, Tony, worked as a lawyer for a large international firm based in London.  He was in Moscow on a mission for an international organization about the time of the dissolution of the Soviet Union.  There were something like fourteen people in the team and when they heard that something was happening in Kazakhstan, (note – Kazakhstan, not Kyrgyzstan).  Kazakhstan is a big  country – the size of Western Europe.  It had gold, oil and nuclear weapons.  Maybe they needed to send someone to Almaty, (which was then the capital city, before Astana was granted that status), and so three of the team were  chosen to go there and see what was going on.  He was one of them.  When they got to Almaty, they realised that just 250 kilometers away was Bishkek, the capital of another former Soviet Republic, and maybe it was worth sending someone there as well.  Well, there were only three people to choose from – and he got the job. (Sometimes we joke about whether he got the long straw or the short one.)

Anyway, he loved the place.  He is from New Zealand and he said that it reminded him of life back home when he was growing up.  Mountains and open spaces, lots of sheep and abundant wildlife, a multi cultural and friendly people with a friendly openness and hospitable tradition.  At that time there were very few Westerners that made it to this part of the former Central Asia, access to this part of the Soviet Union was strictly controlled, and he was feted everywhere he went, (again, we sometimes joke that he was “fated”, if there is such a word).   He took every opportunity to come back and eventually decided he would like to open his own law firm here as he saw great potential for development.

On his suggestion I came here for a holiday in 1994 and liked the place, but I never thought that I would eventually move here.  However, when he asked me to come out and help him to open an office I agreed.  I originally came for one year, but things never quite go according to plan and as the year was coming to an end there was still lots to do, so I stayed on to finish the job.  I could have gone back home.  I had a job waiting for me and staying here meant saying goodbye to that and a career that I had been developing for twenty years.  To be honest, however, I was ready for a change and I looked forward to meeting the challenges of starting something new.

Once the office was up and running we what we saw as a gap in the tourism market, as it was then, Since Soviet times there have always been a lot of visitors from Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan and Russia to Lake Issyk Kul.  Apart from that there were mountaineering and hunting expeditions, and the occasional Silk Road tour which crossed one of the few land crossing points open for passenger traffic into China.  We thought that there were lots of Westerners, like ourselves, who would welcome the opportunity to visit and explore this little known region.   Perhaps they had spent their long vacations when they were students visiting interesting parts of the world and were willing to accept the rigours and hardships of travel. They had time available to simply wander and explore but had little money to spare. Now, however, they have jobs and responsibilities that meant that, although they have money, they have limited time available and “had to be back behind the desk on Monday week.”  They still wanted to visit remote and interesting places but needed to make the most of their “two weeks” annual leave and didn’t want either the hassle or discomforts that they were prepared to accept as students.  With this image of our potential clients we started the tour company, together with another British friend who was also interested in the potential of the region, and opened a couple of hotels, one in Naryn and another in the capital, Bishkek.  We would have liked to open more, but, (as I said before), things don’t always go according to plan.

In the meantime Tony met and eventually married a local girl and together they have two children.  They now live in Australia. Tim is still in the UK, and I am still here.

* Is there anything that you miss from life back in Britain?

That’s easy: Marmite and Branston Pickle!  On the other hand, back in Britain you can’t get Maksim Shoro, so it’s a case of: “you win some and you lose some”.

Actually, you can get most things here in Central Asia so it is not really a question of material things.

When I first came here the answer would probably have been “news from home” but these days, thanks to the internet and satellite TV that is not such an issue.  The range of available books and films is perhaps a bit more limited than at home.  It can be frustrating to read on the internet about new books that have just been published, or the film releases, and then have to wait until they can be delivered by Amazon instead of just wandering down the High Street to the local branch of WH Smiths to pick one up, but it’s not that big an issue.

* 20 years ago Central Asia was hidden within the Soviet Union but it is now fast becoming a key strategic focal point. What changes have you seen during you time here? Has anything shocked you?

Looking back to 1995 the three biggest changes are probably:

1. The amount of traffic.  There are a lot more vehicles on the streets these days than there used to be, and the traffic jams in the cities are getting worse.  When I first came here we used to be able to cross the street without looking because you could hear the vehicles approaching, but now you have to great care with your “kerb drill” if you don’t want end up “falling under a bus”.
2. The number of restaurants and cafes.  I remember on my first visit back in 1994 that there were very few cafes and restaurants and when we told that a new café had opened we decided to try it out.  It was a small room with just three tables, and the menu consisted of just a few local dishes.  Nowadays we are spoilt for choice – offering a wide variety of cuisine.
3. The amount of new construction.  Modern shops and restaurants, leisure facilities such as cinemas and a skating rink, apartment blocks and hotels.  There are still some building sites where the carcass of an unfinished building has stood idle for several years following the collapse of the Soviet Union, but there are a lot of new buildings going up all over the place – most of them demonstrating interesting architectural features.

All of these are signs of a developing economy, as is the ever improving range of goods available in the shops.

Another of the big changes is the presence of more and more foreigners.  In addition to the tourists there are many more consultants and businessmen visiting the country and also the personnel serving at the US air-force base at Manas airport just outside Bishkek.

Some things, however, haven’t changed that much.  For example, the main statue of Lenin may have been moved from Bishkek’s central square, (Ala Too Square), but he didn’t move that far, just round to the other side of the Historical Museum.  You can still see him in many places around the country.  The Soviet Union which he brought into existence and presided over in its early years, ruled the country for seventy years and has had a marked impact on the country.  Its influence is still evident in many aspects of life in Kyrgyzstan.

The biggest surprise I ever had was when I was walking back to my office from a meeting and driving along Kievskaya Street I saw a bright red London Routemaster bus with the destination board displaying “Westminster”.  I wanted to flag it down and point out that it was heading in the wrong direction – East rather than West.

* How does it feel to be living at the centre of a New Great Game?

To be honest, you don’t notice it that much, because it doesn’t really impinge on daily life.

Of course we are aware of it.  For example, we hear and read about the various controversies regarding the US “Ganci” airbase – but it is just one of a number of issues that is raised from time to time.

* Kyrgyz tourism is very much focused around the community. How do you see this as differing from European tourism?

I am not sure I would agree with you, entirely, about the focus of Kyrgyz tourism being centered around “the community” … it is one aspect of Kyrgyz tourism, an important one, (and, I would say, one of the great success stories in Kyrgyzstan), but still it is only one aspect.

Community based tourism (CBT) is something that has been well developed in Kyrgyzstan … but I think it more of a feature rather than a “focus”.  The idea arose from a desire to help the local rural communities improve their standard of living by offering a way of diversifying and finding alternative sources of income.  The concept was developed mainly through the Swiss Development agency Helvetas, who helped establish local groups.  Other donors also used the model and the number of groups has grown over the years so that there is now a wide network covering most of the country – and in some areas they offer the only available facilities for tourists.  These groups offer accommodation, local guides and interpreters, transport and other services.

Although some, (many), tourists may use the facilities of a CBT group during their stay, it is probably going too far to say that it is a “focus” of Kyrgyz tourism.  Many “westerners” have heard of CBT because it is featured in many of the guidebooks and some visitors make a point of planning a trip entirely using CBT services.  However, they are not the majority of visitors, nor is this a major feature of Kyrgyz marketing.

In fact, Kyrgyz tourism has, for a long time, centered mainly around Lake Issyk Kul – with most of the visitors to the country coming from neighbouring Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan and the Siberian regions of Russia to relax on the lakeside beaches, swim in the salty water, take advantage of the facilities of the various health resorts and so on.  That was true in the Soviet days, and it is still true today.  So much so that there are many new developments up by the lake to offer modern facilities that will help Issyk Kul compete with other destinations vying for the same business, such as Thailand and Turkey.  I think it is fair to say that the main focus of Kyrgyz tourism is still: Issyk Kul.  Personally, I think it is a bit of a pity, because the country has so much more to offer.

If the vast majority of tourists visiting the country head for Issyk Kul, then another thrust of Kyrgyz tourism is the Adventure Market: mountaineering, trekking, horse riding, rafting and so forth.   (Although they may stay with local communities, most of these visitors actually want to get out into the countryside.)

A third sector of the country’s tourism can be stylized as “travels along the Great Silk Road”.  Kyrgyzstan is a transit country between the ancient cities of Uzbekistan, (such as Samarkand, Khiva, and Bukhara), and China, representing the “mysterious orient”, with two main land border crossings, Torugart and Irkeshtam.  Once again, these tourists may stay with local communities but, unfortunately, their timetables are normally so tight that they only spend a few days in Kyrgyzstan.

As an aside, one aspect of CBT is that, (except where the local CBT group offers the only realistically available local facilities for tourists – and is therefore used by all visitors to the area), it more suitable for the “independent” tourist.  Unfortunately, unlike the situation in Europe, “independent tourism” is not well developed in the country, or well catered for.  There isn’t, for example, a network of local Tourist Information Centers around the country, and those that do exist tend to be focused on a local area and are run by the private sector.  As a result, it is usually necessary for the visitor to have, already, an idea or plan of what they want to do beforehand – especially if they have limited time available.

* Could the model work around Central Asia to promote tourism?

The concept is a particularly appropriate model for Kyrgyzstan which, apart from a few main centers, is basically a rural society with relatively few facilities and infrastructure.

Although there are CBT groups in Issyk Kul, (where there is a lot of competition from well established hotels, resorts and sanatoria) and the second city, Osh, most of the groups are found in smaller communities such as Kazarman or Arslanbob.

CBT is a model that is well suited for the whole region.  It has been the subject of a lot of interest from Russia, Kazakhstan and Tajikistan.  KCBTA, (The Kyrgyz Community Based Tourism Association), has been involved with projects to adapt the concept in the neighbouring countries and there are plans for a Central Asia network based on the Kyrgyz experience.

* What are some of your favourite memories, sights and sounds from the region?

Hmmm … that’s difficult.  There are so many possibilities:

• my first sight of the Tash Rabat caravanserai hidden away in a remote mountain valley …
• the sight and sound of the manaschi reciting in a trancelike state the description of the battle between Manas, the legendary hero of the Kyrgyz, and the Chinese armies from the ancient Manas Epic …
• the sound of the Chopo Choor, a clay wind instrument like a recorder playing a traditional haunting melody …
• telling the Kyrgyz Prime Minister, in my best “pigeon-Russian” that the government had just effectively increased a tax by 50-fold …
• standing at the roadside at 10 o’clock trying to decide which was worse, the vodka being thrust into my left hand or the horsemeat sausage, (a traditional Kyrgyz delicacy – which was 90% fat), being thrust into my right hand by my Krgyz host and looking for a place to dispose of them both without upsetting or offending her … against my better judgment, I consumed both
• seeing a Routemaster bus driving along a Bishkek street …
• …

… to cite just a few

* Have you engaged in or watched any of the traditional sports or activities that you can tell us about?

There used to be a website which stated that “Kyrgyzstan is not particularly well endowed with festivals”, which is grossly unfair …they may not always be the best organized affairs, but there are a wide variety of festivals giving visitors the chance to see (and often to participate) in such traditional sports and activities.

On one occasion we had to organize some traditional games for a German film crew, and one of the most worrying moments in my career was watching the cameraman bolt for safety as he got too cliose to the action and was charged down by a horse and rider.  I was worried for his safety, but he was more concerned about this camera which went tumbling to the floor.

As a former Maths teacher, perhaps my favourite was the demonstration of making traditional felt carpets, with their symmetrical designs and motifs.

* What advice would you give someone coming to the region for the first time either on business or for pleasure?

Don’t take anything for granted.  Life is full of surprises, few things are ever simple and straight forward and it best to be prepared for the fact that you might have to “roll with it”.

Amongst the various activities to mark the occasion, several newspapers and magazines published special editions or supplements.  The AKIPress news agency, Kyrgyzstan’s biggest private news agency published a special edition of its analytical journal, in Russian and English.  They asked me if I would give them an interview.

On these occasions I am never sure if which “hat” I am wearing:

• as a foreign private investor working in the sphere of tourism, the General Director of a Tour Company,
• as President of the Kyrgyz Association of Tour Operators (KATO),
• as a member of the board of the Destination Marketing Association, (DMA), or
• something else.

Anyway, I agreed, and one wet, rainy morning I made way to the offices of the agency and we sat talking for hours … and hours.  They taped the interview and later sent me a copy of the interview for review.  They had obviously selected only a few points … they had lots to chose from.

There are different opinions about the tourist season. Some say that the last year tourist season was not successful. What should we expect this year?

I think that, this year, the tourist sector is going to experience some difficulties. The events of March last year made Kyrgyzstan famous throughout the world. On the one hand it was good in that people around world now know that a country called Kyrgyzstan exists, but on the other hand the image that was acquired during those days was very negative. Last year a lot of people from western countries were planning to come to Kyrgyzstan, and many of them were almost ready to collect the necessary documents in preparation for their journey, but after the events of March 24^th many of them cancelled their plans.  Others, however, decided to wait and see what happened, how the situation was going to evolve, and when it was clear that the political situation in the country had stabilized they finally came.

After the events last year, the government realized that if they did not undertake measures then the tourist sector would suffer a lot.  The Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the whole government and the tour-operators all made an effort to save the tourist season from collapse. For example, tour operators got in touch with our clients and to keep them informed and reassure them about the situation in the country and, as I said, many of them finally came so that, in the end, the number of tourists from western countries was more or less the same last year as in previous years. The situation with tourists from Kazakhstan, Russia, Uzbekistan and other CIS countries was different.  The number of tourists was several times fewer than in previous years. The Issyk-kul region suffered a lot because the number of these tourists from the CIS countries was very low. This year we have to attract new clients, but it is not going to be that easy because many people in the western countries still remember the events that took place last year in Kyrgyzstan, even thought the political situation is stabilized now. That negative image of the country remains.

A lot of work was done during the year, but we need to do more. We’ve increased the amount of advertisement of the country. It is mostly has been done by the Destination Marketing Association (DMA). This year we are participating in more exhibitions and fairs than in previous years. Our main task has been to convince people to come to Kyrgyzstan.  Although many people are asking about the possibility of visiting the country, my guess is that, this year, the number of tourists is going to be similar to, if not fewer, than in previous years.

I cannot say exactly how many tourists are going to visit the country this year.

The Ministry of Industry, Trade and Tourism says that this year the number of tourist that are coming to the country this year is going to be more than one million. What do you think about that?

I do not know where they get these figures.  I think they might only represent the hoped for result, but sometimes our hopes and wishes do not coincide with reality.

I guess you will remember that 2001 was announced as “The Year of Tourism”.  In February of that year I met an official who said: “You (tourist companies) are going to be successful this year because many tourists are going to come”.  I asked him why he thought so, and do you know what his answer was? He said: “Because the President announced this as the year of tourism.”  It was funny. Of course, we all want every year to be successful, and we want as many tourists to come to the country as possible, but an announcement of the President, on its own, is not enough.

I cannot make a general prognosis for the tourist season. One reason is that there is a tendency throughout world, where tourists travel to other countries without the help of tour-operators, (i.e. independent tourists). They make their own arrangements, buy their tickets and fly, without buying packages from tour operators.

What are the most important factors that influence the tourist season?

Firstly: knowledge and information.  This is the most important factor.  If there is no information about the country and the possibilities on offer, then people won’t know about us, and won’t come.  We will have no tourists. If, in previous times, people in the West did not know about Kyrgyzstan, then the situation is better today as many people now know that there is such a country as Kyrgyzstan, but it is not enough. We need to talk about the country more, disseminate more information in the international mass media, not only in Russian but also in English and other languages. The information must be in all forms, not only in form of advertisements.  We have to write small articles about the environment, animals, culture and traditions, to make people interested. In the countries of the CIS, many people know that Kyrgyzstan is a former part of the former Soviet Union, but there are differences between the Kyrgyzstan of today and Kyrgyzia in the period of Soviet Union.  For instance, I came to this country for the first time in 1994, and the country is quite different nowadays.  What people in Russia know about present day Kyrgyzstan?

Secondly: the difficulty in getting here – for example, there are not very many flights or international trains.  (Even to get from Almaty to get to Lake Issyk Kul, visitors have to go round the mountains, which makes quite a long and tiring journey.)  Then there is the question of obtaining a visa.  I often get questions about visas, and although we can say that Kyrgyzstan has a fairly good visa regime – there are not that many Kyrgyz embassies and consulates around the world and although it is possible for tourists to get a visa on arrival at Manas airport, what if the tourist wants to come to Kyrgyzstan from China, or from Kazakhstan, by car?  They will not be able to get one on arrival because there is no provision for obtaining a visa at the border.

Another important factor which can influence on the inflow of tourists is the quality of experience when they are here.  We have to think about the interface between the Kyrgyz and the tourists.  The most important thing is that we have to make people feel welcome.  Everyone who meets and interacts with tourists, (all the law enforcement bodies, drivers, guides, waiters and others) should smile to make the visitors feel comfortable.  If the tourist has a good experience in Kyrgyzstan; if, for example, there will be no problems with, say, customs or traffic police …  then they will spread the good news when they return home and number of tourists in the future will increase.

We also should try to improve the infrastructure, build new hotels, guest-houses, roads, toilets, etc.  Sometimes, for example, there is a lack of space in hotels and guest-houses.  It may not happen often, but anyway we have to build new ones in order to create competition between them.  We should also think about new places where tourists can listen to national music or simply see the culture and traditions of the nomadic Kyrgyz. Tourists from western countries are not usually interested in resorts, but they are more interested in traditions and culture. They can go Turkey or Greece, Spain or Italy to lie on the beach, but they come here to see the mountains, wildlife and experience the nomadic way of life.

There are other points.  A small one is that, in Kyrgyzstan, all the signs are written in Russian and Kyrgyz.  For many international tourists this creates difficulties. Of course it looks exotic when they see sign-boards in other languages, but it is not convenient. It would be helpful to write signs, (especially ones for tourists), not only in Russian and Kyrgyz, but also in English.  If, for example, you go to a museum, all the signs will be in Russian or Kyrgyz.  You will find no catalogues or brochures in English, (and even in Russian there are not that many of them).  It would be a good idea to develop new catalogues and brochures which can be interesting, attract attention and also that can be taken home and shown to other people.

Today we have a national marketing strategy on promotion of Kyrgyzstan as the land of tourism which should be implemented till 2010. What do you think how effective is that strategy?

I think that there are problems with this strategy.  There are too many items in the list of things that should be done, and there is not enough financial support for it. If there is insufficient finance, then the strategy will just remain as print on paper.

Is the private sector ready to give financial assistance for realization of this strategy?

We have had a lot of discussions about this. Generally speaking, the private sector is willing to contribute to various marketing activities.  However, it is not the role of the private sector to advertise, market or promote the country as such.  Principally this is the role of the state – it affects the economy as a whole and involves the image of the country. The state will benefit from their investment in this activity by an increase in tax revenues if, and when, the number of tourists increases and the tourism sector develops. Businessmen, on the other hand, are primarily responsible for advertising their product, not the country.  As it happens, in the past they have had to promote the whole country as well as their own tour products, because of the general lack of information about Kyrgyzstan which has been available.  That is the reason the DMA was established – to promote the country as a tourist destination.  Currently it is funded from both the State and Private sectors, with additional assistance from the Swiss government.  In the DMA it is intended to bring together both the State and the private sector in cooperation – because together we can achieve far more than if we work separately and in isolation from each other.